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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Many of these mag and online articles list the 0-60 times for the 500e at 8 Seconds plus.

8.0s

8.4s

8.5s

9.1s

9.9s



I did a couple quick tests on my way to work this morning using my phone's stop watch.

First attempt
97% SOC, AC off, ESC off, no wheel spin, just hit the pedal and go. Ambient temp 72F.
7.72s


2nd attempt
73% SOC, AC on, ESC off, no wheel spin, just hit the pedal and go. Ambient temp 72F
8.62s


So it makes me wonder what the SOC was for some of these other tests and whether or not they had the AC on? I need to try back to back tests with AC on then off, to see how much of a factor it is vs SOC.

Anyone else do any 0-60 testing?

I recall somewhere I saw one member shaved .8 seconds off with lighter Konig Helium wheels and tires. I have a set of Heliums, just waiting until my stock tires wear down. That could potentially put me in the 6s range at full SOC.

I just wish power wasn't limited below 15mph. I have no problems with traction from takeoff. The only time I broke tires loose was in a low speed turn and I mashed the pedal. I'm sure wheel spin will be a factor in cooler weather, but I have yet to see/try below 70deg since owning the car.
 

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I feel like its a car that loses a lot above 50mph.

I don't think you get that full 0.8 seconds from a lighter rim/tire setup. So under 7 second 0-60 I don't feel the car is that fast. There's software that can measure it on the street that's better than the phone stopwatch so please prove me wrong. The car feels like it has enough power for what it is the suspension setup is what I'm after.

Getting it out of the hole it can do basically everything you can expect... unless you really are looking to improve your 60' foot time. Sometimes when you try to lay it down and turn the electric grandma devices get confused and defeat your hoonery. I find you can sometimes saw the wheel back and forth a bit like you would with an old-school Honda Civic with an open diff and that gets the software to where you get the traction control to do its job... lol.

I'm also looking at the 15"x6.5" Konig Helium wheels but not sure what tire size. 205/50/15 is closest to stock diameter but that seems like a lot of tire to throw at this car for a daily driver given the potential impacts to range.
 

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Also my Butt dyno says its mid 8 second 0-60 maybe upper 8s but the car is much faster than most regular cars under 45mph or so
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll have to do some more testing. I don't know if you can hook a draggy up to these cars or what other options there are?

I was actually thinking about putting some skinnies on the rear for better acceleration and range. Pretty much the same setup I had on my K20Civic.
 

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Car&Driver multi-EV test with 2013 500e
8.7s

Car&Driver 2013 500e individual test
8.4s

Edmunds
8.2s

On stock tires MY 500e would spin one if I floored it off the line even on smooth dry flat clean new pavement:
  • Without ESC one tire would spin until I backed off, or about half a block if I didn't!
  • With ESC a tire spun about half a revolution before ESC kicked in, & then a fairly big chirp at around 25.
So it sure doesn't seem like power is "limited below 15mph". My AlfaOBD shows slightly less available power at lower SOC though. I happened to be at over 90% on the gauge when I blew the doors off a late-model Maserati who'd verbally challenged me. We each had both windows fully open, slowing us down, but I also have lighter wheels AND tires, & no heavy rear seat-backs, and he had a passenger while I did not.

I have 205/50s all-around, with NO detectable difference in CITY range. A very slight headwind or difference in avg speed has more effect. This might be due to my lower wheel/tire weight compensating for more drag, so at HIGHWAY speeds it might make a difference, but my friend got the exact same 205s & got the exact same highway range even with stock rims (actually even "worse", with my old wider heavier rear rims on the front of hers!).

A/C's power-draining compressor goes through cycles, off & on through several (about five I think) different power levels, so having it "on" should yield inconsistently slower results.

I once saw someone checking 0-60 by simply first starting his phone videoing his speedo, then flooring it, then stopping the vid after 60mph. Then he looked at the vid's time stamp difference between start & finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have no trouble hooking up with the stock Firestones at 43psi warm.

Daytime temps are 95-99 degF, so the roads are warm, even at 5am and 73 degF ambient.

When I floor it,the power meter shows 40Kw until 15mph, then jumps to 79-80Kw.

I am going to order a draggy and get some official numbers. Apparently it is not what I thought it was and is accurate to within a couple hundreths of second.

If our local drag strip didn't shut down permanently I would make a real pass. I will definitely get some use out of the draggy with my friends cars too.

I'll update once I get some real numbers.
 

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Our different OEM tire hookup experiences may be due to different states of wear &/or slight compound difference year-to-year.

When I floor it off the line my power meter shows about like yours, BUT I don't feel even one tiny blip in the smoothness of the acceleration. Observing the power meter during normal driving it appears to "only" update about once per second or so. That would mean by the time it updates to show the power used in the first 6 feet, it's one second later & you're going 15mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just turned 10,000 miles and still have plenty of tread depth, so I suppose that could be a factor.

Last night I ordered two ASKO 4k cameras at half the price of one GoPro. So once they arrive, along with the Draggy, I will get some concrete data and videos.

In the meantime, check out my 500E cameo in last week's free laptop video
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I've been pretty busy and the dragy has been just sitting in the case for over a week now. I have been itching to test it. So I did a couple quick 1/4 mile runs in the wee hours of the morning on my way to work today. Not bad, but not great. There is room for improvement.

Either there is something wrong with my car or they did a software update for 2017+? Power is definitely limited below 15mph. I can mash the go pedal from a dead stop with ESC off and it does not spin tire or even make a chirp + feels a little sluggish as opposed to when I punch it from 15mph+. Secondly the power meter only shows about 50% power, 40Kw, until I hit 15mph. If I am going above 15mph, coast to say 5Kw and then punch it, it instantly jumps to around 80Kw and pins you in the seat a little.

I tried power breaking it the other day without the dragy on and that didn't work out too well. I held the brake down with my left foot and go pedal down with my right foot, then released the brake and it did not make any difference. I tried it a second time a little longer to see if I could pre-load the suspension and possibly overpower the breaks. I think I held it too long and the car did not like that. It went into limited power mode. I thought I broke something, but I just kicked the AC on, thinking possibly I overheated the battery, and it went away after driving about 30 seconds down the road.

The only thing I have not tried, is launching it like I used to do in my K20 Swapped Civic. Pre-loading the suspension with the e-brake, mashing go pedal, then release the e-brake. This seems promising as I did a quick test in the parking lot. With the e-brake up and car in D, it actually pre-loaded the suspension and tried to lurch forward. Unlike with the normal foot brake where it did not pre-load or try to lurch forward.

The 2.6 60ft shows how sluggish this thing is off the line. Drop that down to a 2.2 and this car may dip into the 15's in the 1/4 and sub 8s 0-60.

The Dragy is definitely cool. Can't wait to get some better times for the 500E and test it on some faster cars.

Did not have time to video, but slips and data below.
93% SOC, AC off, headlights on.

Raw 0-60 = 8.57s

With 1ft rollout like most magazines

= 8.22s

108998
108999
109000
 

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Thanks for the handbrake tip! I wonder about launch by flooring it in N & then hitting D, since it will allow that without the foot brake.

Your zero-60 is BETTER than 3 of the 8 pro tests, so I might not want to blame new software for limiting power, although your 0-30 of 3.16 is a bit slower than Car&Driver's 2.8

I don't remember if yours is lowered, or if you've been following the aerodynamic drag thread, but the 12-15% improvement there from 2" of lowering would certainly help even the 60ft time, since nearly half of that is over 15mph.

It's easy to find lighter tires, much lighter wheels that pay for themselves*, & remove the very heavy rear seat backs (6 bolts, I think).

* Wheel set cost me less than a few proper front-back tire rotations on the stock staggered-width wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the handbrake tip! I wonder about launch by flooring it in N & then hitting D, since it will allow that without the foot brake.

Your zero-60 is BETTER than 3 of the 8 pro tests, so I might not want to blame new software for limiting power, although your 0-30 of 3.16 is a bit slower than Car&Driver's 2.8

I don't remember if yours is lowered, or if you've been following the aerodynamic drag thread, but the 12-15% improvement there from 2" of lowering would certainly help even the 60ft time, since nearly half of that is over 15mph.

It's easy to find lighter tires, much lighter wheels that pay for themselves*, & remove (4 bolts?) the very heavy rear seat backs.

* Wheel set cost me less than a few proper front-back tire rotations on the stock staggered-width wheels.
I would not try the neutral drop. Engaging the gear under load might break something I would think. But I'll let you be the guinea pig if you want. :)

Supposedly launching with the e-brake pre-loads the suspension to prevent breaking axles on most fwd cars.
Here is an old grainy video of me utilizing the technique. Takes a little practice, which I need on the 500e to see if it helps lower times.

That further proves something is limiting power. If this thing was like a normal car I could stall it up, launch harder and find the point at where the tires would actually break loose.

Not lowered yet. Car is 100% stock. So this is the baseline. I was really hoping for a 16.0 1/4 time. Which is still possible if I can get it off the line better. If I could get this thing close to a 14sec 1/4 mile I was thinking about hitting up a few IFO events and running it in the 1/4 mile bracket class. I took 2nd place at one event with my stock 5.7 Tundra running 14.6s lol, only because I red lighted in the final. The 500e would make a good bracket car as it seems pretty consistent.

I still need to compare 0-60 vs SOC, the original topic of this thread. Working 12 days in a row right now, so might be a couple more weeks.
 

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The gears never disengage. Therefore there is no load under which they could engage. "Neutral" just shuts off power. "R" just turns on power to drive the motor the opposite direction. D just applies power to the already-engaged gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The gears never disengage. Therefore there is no load under which they could engage. "Neutral" just shuts off power. "R" just turns on power to drive the motor the opposite direction. D just applies power to the already-engaged gears.
Interesting. In that case, let her rip and let us know if it does any better.

I just came across the Madness go pedal. Normally I don't believe in these things, but in this scenario it just may work. Assuming it manipulates the DBW signal, which is what is possibly limiting my power. Reviews on this forum seem pretty good for the gas powered cars. Haven't found any with 500e, except this thread Madness posted

 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Did a couple more quick pulls on my way to work again. Same location as yesterday.

My e-brake technique did not equate to any significant gains.
109002



However your WOT N to D technique did shave 1 tenth off my raw 0-60 and 0-30, but no real gain in the 1/4. I did a little testing before hand to make sure it would work and it appears just as you said, it just switches power off/on. I started with 1/4 throttle launch, then 1/2 then 3/4 and eventually WOT N to D. No clunking or breaking sounds lol. It actually felt like it left a bit stronger, but still sluggish IMO and power meter still at 50%. I assume that tenth of a second was gained by eliminating the time it took me previously to floor the pedal.

109003

109004


She is pretty consistent though and would probably do well, if I decide to take it bracket racing.
 

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I think you're catching the stability control thus the sluggish feeling off the line. I feel like the car is better than 2.6 60' and I'm a lousy drag racer lol. Nice numbers though not bad driving either :)

I can see where I feel the car fall off above 40-45mph
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I think you're catching the stability control thus the sluggish feeling off the line. I feel like the car is better than 2.6 60' and I'm a lousy drag racer lol. Nice numbers though not bad driving either :)

I can see where I feel the car fall off above 40-45mph
Funny you mention that. I was thinking about pulling the abs fuse. I know on my supercharged Tundra this would fully disable all the nannies as well as the speed limiter.

My only concern is resetting the codes afterwards. I have a Kanwei OBD adapter, but never used it.

I had an old civic that could cut 2.0 60fts and ran low 15's with only 115whp, so this thing should do better with instant electric torque.

When I floor from dead stop though, it is completely lack luster, not even a hint of tire spin. From a roll it pins you in the seat a bit.

Scratching my head.

I noticed that on the acceleration graph as well. Big drop.
 

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I have old-ish tires and so my 500e does the one-wheel peel on me. I found that rocking the wheel back and forth will get it to hook if I do it right.... you may recall this is an old school honda-boi/civic trick the open diff into acting like a limited slip. :D
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I have old-ish tires and so my 500e does the one-wheel peel on me. I found that rocking the wheel back and forth will get it to hook if I do it right.... you may recall this is an old school honda-boi/civic trick the open diff into acting like a limited slip. :D
Oh yeah. I remember seeing this video 11yrs ago wondering why this dude was spaazing out during his burn out. I guess it works. Never tried it myself.

I am about to order the Madness Gopedal and put it to the test. They have a 30day satisfaction return policy.
 

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I was thinking about pulling the abs fuse. I know on my supercharged Tundra this would fully disable all the nannies as well as the speed limiter.

My only concern is resetting the codes afterwards.
No code reset has ever been needed when I've disabled my ESC with a fuse:

With my 2013 unplugged & fully cycled off* I pulled the power steering fuse**, & the only visible sign is the "ESC" warning light. I've plugged it back in several times, before the rare event of anyone else driving it. No codes ever.

It definitely deactivates traction control.

*screen fully black, not just dark grey - takes about 1.25min.
** black box under hood near driver-side firewall, I threw away the useless retaining screw, & moved fuse F05 (tan 70A) down to the next open spot, which I could see contains no metal contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No code reset has ever been needed when I've disabled my ESC with a fuse:

With my 2013 unplugged & fully cycled off* I pulled the power steering fuse**, & the only visible sign is the "ESC" warning light. I've plugged it back in several times, before the rare event of anyone else driving it. No codes ever.

It definitely deactivates traction control.

*screen fully black, not just dark grey - takes about 1.25min.
** black box under hood near driver-side firewall, I threw away the useless retaining screw, & moved fuse F05 (tan 70A) down to the next open spot, which I could see contains no metal contacts.
Sweet! Thanks for the tips!
Did it disable the speedometer as well? If I recall correctly on my Tundra it killed the analog speedometer gauge too.
 
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