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Even though I have done several oil changes on the Abarth I messed up this one. My glasses were misplaced and I set the O ring on the cap incorrectly. 2 & 3/4 quarts of oil on the floor before I realized what was happening. Seated the O ring all the way to lip instead of in its seat. My Bad.
 

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well, after 1100 km gentle (almost) driving I changed the oil and filter of my new Abarth. Getting Pennzoil ultra 5w40 was not easy and getting the filter housing out was harder. So maybe 3 hours start to finish and an extra 2 hours to clean up the oil that dripped on to all the hoses and mesh while I was trying to get the filter out uffff. My experience but next time much faster I hope
 

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Maybe time to refresh this sticky, since many of the steps in the original post are not needed.

I just did my Abarth's second oil change (dealer did the first one for free). Overall, the process isn't too bad. The worst part has to do with the placement of the filter. It that it's hard to get the cap off, but it is going to drip oil on other engine parts when you take it out. Some degreaser and a hose will clean it up, though.
 

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Why are people fooling around with this? With a coupon that FIAT Studio sends you in the mail, an oil change costs $29.95. The materials are probably fifteen bucks at NAPA, so you are only paying fifteen bucks for labor. Is three hours of your time worth less than $15.00? That's $5.00 per hour!

Plus, they flash the computer, do an inspection, top up fluids, etc.

Tedolph
 

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Why are people fooling around with this? With a coupon that FIAT Studio sends you in the mail, an oil change costs $29.95. The materials are probably fifteen bucks at NAPA, so you are only paying fifteen bucks for labor. Is three hours of your time worth less than $15.00? That's $5.00 per hour!

Plus, they flash the computer, do an inspection, top up fluids, etc.

Tedolph
My 1st oil change on my current 2016 Sport was $10 and change. I supplied filter/O ring and synthetic oil; the dealership supplied the labor and the ubiquitous "consumables" or equivalent charge for their shop rags, etc.. More than worth it for me!
 

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My first oil change on my new Fiat 500 Sport was a two hour affair. In order to cut out the guesswork for other doityourselfers, here is a rundown of the procedure.
1. Remove plastic engine shroud. Just pull up on it and it will pop off at 4 attachment points on the top of the engine.
2. Remove the black airbox which is directly on top of the engine under the shroud. There are 3 silver 8mm bolts ( 2 at the sides and one in the back ) which attach the box directly to the engine. Loosen these until you can move the airbox assembly freely. There are 3 hoses which need to be detached from the airbox. One at the front on the right side which is accordianed and oval in shape, one which is on the top on the right and about 3/4" in diameter, and one which is on the right toward the back which is about 2" diameter and has an 8mm hose clamp on it. Detach all three at the airbox and lift the airbox up and place to the right side of the engine compartment. There will still be 2 flexible hoses attached at the rear of the airbox, but they will allow you to move the airbox freely to the right. This will give you room to access the oil filter canister which is located just behind the radiator on the left side.
3. Jack up the car on the left side front to give you room to crawl under the vehicle for removal of the plastic belly pan.
4. Remove the plastic belly pan under the engine by removing the 6 silver bolts. There are two at the front, two at the sides, and two at the back. Pull the pan back to unclip it from the lip on the leading edge, and it will fall right down so you can get it out of your way.
5. You will now see the oil pan and 13mm drain plug which is rear facing and directly above the metal strut which braces the frame from side to side. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil.
6. Locate the oil filter canister which is directly behind the radiator on the left side of the engine compartment. It is surrounded by a molded shield on its upper right. You access it from the top, and not underneath the car. It is a black domed plastic piece with a 27mm hex extension in the center. Use a 27mm socket with a 6" ratchet handle and loosen the cap of the canister. This is tricky since there is very little room and a hose in the way. The cap may be tight from the factory, but just keep turning to the left and unthread it all the way until it can be removed. The filter element snaps in to the cap, so it will not fall out while removing the cap. Remove the filter element by pulling firmly on it until it snaps out. Install the new one so it snaps in to the cap. Replace the rubber O ring on the outer edge of the cap and lube with oil. Install the cap and new filter and thread it down until you feel the threads end. Do not over tighten since it is a plastic part.
7. Install the 13mm drain plug in the oil pan.
8. Install the plastic belly pan with 6 bolts and lower the car from the jack.
9. Install airbox by reattaching hoses and carefully threading in the three 8mm silver bolts.
10. Add 4.0 quarts of 5-30 oil. Start car to circulate new oil. Check dip stick for oil level.
11. Snap on plastic engine shroud.
Hopefully this will decrease the time to perform the oil change to about 45 minutes for those of you who want to do it yourself, or believe that oil should be replaced more often than the factory recommended 8,000 mile intervals.
Slow down. With a long enough extension you can leave the air box and engine cover in place. Install socket on the filter housing and slide the extension through the hole right by the headlight.
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sorry for the state of disassembly, I’m at the shop putting in a new head gasket on my day off. But you get the idea. Then just lineup the extension with the socket and get changing. You will have to drop the gravel guard, but your life just got easier.
 

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That's good advice about the extension.

I with Ted on this one. The coupon price jumped from $50 to $60. Comparing apples to apples, the parts run $40. It took them 2 1/2 hours last time, including having the tires rotated. I'm not sure if they actually inspect anything, though.
 

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On my 500L, instead of using swivels, long extensions, taking intake boots off or even the fender well, I found the easiest is to get from under the car reached up with just a 1/2” stubby ratchet (link below) on the 27mm socket. It was so easy. Note this was my second oil change since warranty expired. On my first oil change, I went from above with assortment of tools, it was painful and time consuming. From now on, I will go from under for sure! Hope this helps!

 
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