It is possible but unlikely, for the car to be fixed just by a humidity sensor disable & then only OBD, without a 12V &/or HV reboot.

Here's why:

After leaving the humidity sensor properly disconnected at least until all issues are resolved:

• Sometimes it works to just clear the codes with only the free AlfaOBD app, no yellow adapter needed.
• Sometimes just disconnecting the 12V for 5 minutes works, without even code clearing.
• But quite often the codes won't clear until after a 12V disconnect.
• Sometimes they won't even clear until the HV was also disconnected while the 12V was off.
• & sometimes it takes 30+ hours with both 12V & HV off before the codes will clear.

 

• & sometimes after HV reboot it needs the $49 lifetime membership to AlfaOBD for Contactor Enable.
• AND sometimes after ALL of that it needs 10 two-minutes-off key cycles.

 

So you could do any of the following, after leaving the sensor unplugged:

• Try each method one at a time, but that could of course take much longer, since usually the first 2 or 3 don't work on their own.
• Try a 5-minute 12V & HV disconnect*, then code clearing 9 modules (or 17 if you have a Yellow Adapter avail), Contactor Enable if OBD shows "Disabled", & then if needed 10 key cycles.
• Go all-out from the start, by disconnecting the 12V & HV right away, so that 30+ hours later when you clear all 17 modules you'll know you've already done everything, as long as you yanked up hard on the orange fuse*, & while connecting & clearing OBD you avoided even a split-second with the key at "avv".

* Click to enlarge:

Fullsize version in case it shows better:

 

Let's also consider what others may have done to it after it died, that failed to work &/or made it worse.

• They may not have known to leave the humidity sensor unplugged, so it's possible that's all it needs.
• But someone may have unplugged the HV fuse & made the extremely common easy error of replacing it not quite exactly right, so it's possible that's all it needs (combined with sensor disable).
• However, someone may have plugged in an OBD with its own screen. Those have killed a few 500Es but I believe they can be fixed with the standard tricks above, but likely only with the full procedure.

 

Thank you. I will go all out I think. Then proceed as normal thank you. I guess it might not be completely dead if the connectors are making noise. But who knows. Thank you. I will contact you if I need help after the 30+ hours has passed.

 

The 5-minute attempt might be worth a try before paying for a tow if the car can't remain in place for 30 hours.

It may not seem like you're doing much, but even just the "5-minute plan":

• Disables the error-causing humidity sensor
• Reboots the 12V & HV systems
• Double-checks the 12V system voltage (forgot to list that above)
• Double-checks the HV fuse connection
• Clears fault codes with the free app

 

• & double-checks the contactor status.

 

While that would be best ... We are not near a charger so the car has to get moved/tow to an outlet reguardless. And we are about 160 freeway miles from the location where it's going to live forever it's just at my dad's lot for now. The AAA 200 mile tow is just for that though.

 

the car has to get moved/tow to an outlet reguardless.

Not necessarily, if...

The car has been uncharged for approximately 2 months.

They lose ~3.5%/week, so ~30% in 2 months. So if it was at 35% when it died, & the 5-minute plan lets it start, it can drive ~5 miles to a public charger.

So step 1 might be to check the % &/or cell voltages with AlfaOBD.

"OBD Made Easy" is currently section 12 of the Site Map (click here). & the min/max cell level check is in the "Buying One (PrePurchase Checklist)" currently in section 5 at that same link.

 

Not necessarily, if...



They lose ~3.5%/week, so ~30% in 2 months. So if it was at 35% when it died, & the 5-minute plan lets it start, it can drive ~5 miles to a public charger.

So step 1 might be to check the % &/or cell voltages with AlfaOBD.

"OBD Made Easy" is currently section 12 of the Site Map (click here). & the min/max cell level check is in the "Buying One (PrePurchase Checklist)" currently in section 5 at that same link.

Ah makes sense but the nearest 120/220 is a bit more then 5 miles.

 

Also note that an extension cord works fine, at least for 150' or less. How to pick the right one is currently in section 8 at that same link.

 

So if OBD shows it's too low to start but not too low to charge, another option is to use an inverter to charge it from another car's alternator:

https://www.fiat500owners.com/threa...o-home-230-5-minutes-to-connect-500e-as-emergency-generator.151152/post-1306142

 

Def too low to charge. We took it to a 220 and nothing. But not. Doing the steps.

 

Again, not "def" too low to charge. Many of us have had charge failure due to various glitches. Usually the glitches that prevent starting also prevent charging.

 

Sorry I meant too low to charge without resetting the system I should have clarified it a bit.. sorry for any confusion.

Sadly I won't be around a charging outlet and if I did get 5 miles to move it. . It still won't be enough to get to an outlet. So it's best just to tow for now and I'll get back when I have all the tools together

 

If it really was only 2 months uncharged, there seems to be a pretty good chance it's not too low to charge, or maybe even drive, & it just needs a sensor disable, reboot*, code clearing, & maybe a contactor enable &/or 10 key cycles.

* Maybe only 5 minutes, but possibly needing 30 hours.

 

Let's do a bit more simple math to see if it would go from 0% to too low to charge in just 2 months....

 

The lowest mine ever was when I drained it til it died was 2696mV at 0%. That's below the "Warning/Alarm" level of 2699, but it still charged up fine.

The car's "Emergency" level is 1999mV, & it would make no sense to have that designation if it was so low that the car was killed. So I'd guess it would still charge as long as the lowest cell is at 2000mV or more.

It loses ~31.5mV/week, that's ~270mV in 60 days (2 months). 2696mV (0%) minus 270 is 2426mV which is still well above the "Emergency" level.

 

It's actually pretty common for owners to have it suddenly fail to start after a full charge*, so if it had 100% when it died from a computer glitch 2 months ago*, it would have about 70 miles range right now.

* Especially if they haven't installed a 120 or 240V surge protector, AND left the humidity sensor properly unplugged.

 

Correction: More likely to fail at full charge if it doesn't have a Bluetooth 12V monitor.

 

I believe that most failures happen at full charge. Here's why:

The car's own 12V warning usually doesn't activate until after it's dead. That's not quite totally useless, because it does let you know why the car is dead.

But it means there's usually no advance notice of immanent failure, which eventually happens no matter what, when the 12V wears out like it does in any car.

The 12V only dies when the car is parked for a while without charging. That's most likely to happen at home, where most people plug into 220V when they arrive, so it's at full charge in ~2 hours & then sitting all night without charging. So eventually one morning it won't quite start because the 12V is just barely too low, but the HV is at 100%.

 

Hello.

We have towed it and have done the official sequence

Left door open, sleep after 2-3 min. Disconnected humidity sensor, disconnected HV, disconnected 12v.

We will now wait 30 hours and if no luck attempt the keys sequence 10 times.
If that doesn't work the 3 other HV sequences after 5 min RECONNECT.

then attempt odb with tools and peak at the stats with the connectors with alpha obd trial before purchase because might not be needed.

Will update in 40 hours have multimeter and will test HV continuity

 

• & test for 12V or more at the starter battery wires, in case of a bad connection.

• Remember to leave the humidity sensor unplugged, at least until all issues are resolved.

• I think this is what you meant: After reconnecting only the HV & 12V, use free AlfaOBD "demo" to scan BPCM status to see if the contactors need to be enabled with the paid app.

• The "3 other HV sequences" seem to make no difference:

Once we learned the trick for proper HV reconnect, nobody has had any success with different 12V/HV reconnect sequences. Most likely they only worked in the past due to the 1st reconnect(s) being done not quite right, & the subsequent sequence(s) working only because the HV was finally installed properly.​

 

Yes that sounds correct. Good to know the others probably make no difference. I'll go in with obd next. Yes everything is unplugged and I will completely remove the humidity sensor. Unless the car strangely bugs out and acts like it might need it? But seems rare or happened once is the case? Maybe I misread. But yes everything unplugged for 30 hours including humidity sensor , 12v and HV plug

If no luck then go in with free Alfa obd to see if I might need the paid version to activate the connectors. Yes

And again thanks for all your help!

 

Not really "a good sign", since my fan only comes on for 30 seconds when I plug in to charge right after driving hard in over 90F (or maybe it's 95, sorry I can't remember).

I will completely remove the humidity sensor. Unless the car strangely bugs out and acts like it might need it? But seems rare or happened once is the case?

I've had mine unplugged for about 8 years now, but we've recently learned of one particular procedure requiring "all" error codes cleared first. The unplugged sensor shows a code, so I wouldn't remove it. You can tuck the plug back in without connecting it, & still snap the cover back on.

Maybe I misread. But yes everything unplugged for 30 hours...

If no luck then go in with free Alfa obd to see if I might need the paid version to activate the connectors.

The full procedure is currently item 9B of the Site Map (click here).

I think you should try to clear all the fault codes first, since some of them might be deactivating the contactors. Clear all 17 modules: 9 plugged straight in, & 8 more with your Yellow Adapter. The list is currently in item 12B at that same link.

I forgot that you need the paid AlfaOBD app regardless, to fix the blinking odometer.

 

Not really "a good sign", since my fan only comes on for 30 seconds when I plug in to charge right after driving hard in over 90F (or maybe it's 95, sorry I can't remember).



I've had mine unplugged for about 8 years now, but we've recently learned of one particular procedure requiring "all" error codes cleared first. The unplugged sensor shows a code, so I wouldn't remove it. You can tuck the plug back in without connecting it, & still snap the cover back on.



The full procedure is currently item 9B of the Site Map (click here).

I think you should try to clear all the fault codes first, since some of them might be deactivating the contactors. Clear all 17 modules: 9 plugged straight in, & 8 more with your Yellow Adapter. The list is currently in item 12B at that same link.

I forgot that you need the paid AlfaOBD app regardless, to fix the blinking odometer.

The car was reading 100-110 even though it wasn't that hot. Figured I would need the paid app unless I got lucky and hard reset worked.

 

Flashing odometer means it has proxy misalignment.

I'm pretty sure that a hard reset won't fix that.

It can make the % on the car's gauge and on OBD read way off, as well as the cell voltages.

So you'll likely want to do a Proxy Alignment regardless, even if the odometer stops flashing temporarily. It's not worth the risk: When mine was flashing, I happened to notice the gauge jump up 30% right after plugging in. If I hadn't noticed, it would have died while driving, as soon as I hit 30%, since that was really zero.

 

Was planning to reguardless if it was still flashing

 

Plus, with the % & voltage reading wrong in the BPCM, that's likely to upset proper functioning.

& in case you ever get the unpreventable contactor glitch that makes the car fail to start and to charge, it's a good idea to have the paid app on a device that will always be charged up in the car. So if you're not the only one driving it, or if your phone is an Apple, you can just get a ~$35 locked Android phone on Amazon, because you don't need service, just download the app on WiFi & then keep it plugged into the glovebox USB.

 

just get a ~$35 locked Android...

...but make sure it's OTG-compatible, because it's risky to do "active diagnostics" like Contactor Enable or Proxy Align with a wireless connection.

 

Others have had the odometer stop flashing temporarily, while they still had proxy misalignment.

Anyway, the plan still seems to be:

• Reconnect only the HV (after continuity check) & 12V.
• Check for 12+V at the wires, turn the key only 1 click to light the speedometer (should show "not ready).
• Connect the SX cable & clear 9 modules, then 8 more with your Yellow Adapter, then key off 2 minutes.
• See if it will go to "ready" mode.
• If not, check that charge-prevention timers are deactivated & see if it will charge.
• If not, try ten 2-minutes-off key cycles.
• If it still won't charge, check if contactors are enabled, & if not, enable with the paid app.
• Proxy Align with the paid app if the odometer is still flashing (I'd do it regardless, maybe even before all the key cycles).

 

If you have an OEM charge cord, that's the most reliable:

 

No OEM cord sadly.

 

Don't worry. The Yellow Adapter will only plug in one way.

 

The Yellow Adapter's plugs are male-female so only 1 end will plug into the car, & only 1 end will plug into the SX cable.

They're also asymmetrical so you can't plug them in upside-down.

It does connect the car's connections to different ones on the SX cable, in order for it to connect to different modules:

It won't work if it doesn't "cross over" the connections to the other modules. That's why I always try to make a point of mentioning that you need to make sure it's not just a yellow-colored extension cable that doesn't cross over the connections properly.

 

I got the same yellow $12 cable you recommended so unless Amazon batched items with like items. In theory I should be ok.

 

It will likely be fine, plus like I mentioned above there are work-arounds for both issues.

 

At the wires of the 12v. I'm getting 1.5v not connected to the battery

And when connected to the battery I'm getting 12.5v at the wire and battery