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2014 Fiat 500e
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Battery percentage 0%, will not take a charge. ARE there anything I can check? I am electrically trained. Looking for and will accept all available inputs.
With a fully charged 12v battery, I amable to shift from park to neutral and vice versa. I was able to pull some dtc codes on different modules.Not sure if they are valid .
Screenshot_20210502-201615_AlfaOBD Demo.jpg
Screenshot_20210502-195833_AlfaOBD Demo.jpg
Screenshot_20210502-201615_AlfaOBD Demo.jpg
 

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Well it's hard since your battery is at zero. If you're able to connect using the alphaodb interface then you should run a status scan. Connect to the battery module v2 and run a status scan to see what it says. Another issue I can see is the clock on the dash. If you just replaced the battery, try adjusting the time/date to the current time/date and see if that fixes the problem. It could be something simple as the mismatching clock causing the system error.
 

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I'm not fully familiar with the screen in the pic showing "charge timers on/off", so I'd tap the wiper stalk tip until the car image shows, then use the menu buttons to the right of the instrument cluster to make SURE the charge timers are deactivated.

Sometimes a charge supply in need of reboot will cause a fault, so I'd unplug it or cycle its circuit breaker.

Sometimes aftermarket supplies aren't 100% compatible, so I'd try the OEM unit.

It might help if we knew HOW it got to 0%, & why it shows 1/1/2014. When the 12V starter battery dies & you recharge or replace it, some users have reported the need to simply clear the codes with OBD. For those without OBD, warnings can be cleared with up to TEN full 5-minute key-off cycles, although 5 is reportedly often enough, & mine have always cleared with 1 or 2.
 

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If you have a voltmeter that can read over 400V DC, you can manually check the current voltage using the test points on the power distribution center (PDC) under the hood. The image below shows where the PDC is located and where to put the probes. If the driver's door is open and/or the key is engaged in the run position then the full voltage of the high voltage battery registers across those test points. If it shows 0V then the contactors in the battery have not engaged. Note there is a 500e cover plate over this area that's a bit tough to get off. Just pull all 4 corners straight up to lift it off.

ga2500ev

110127
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you have a voltmeter that can read over 400V DC, you can manually check the current voltage using the test points on the power distribution center (PDC) under the hood. The image below shows where the PDC is located and where to put the probes. If the driver's door is open and/or the key is engaged in the run position then the full voltage of the high voltage battery registers across those test points. If it shows 0V then the contactors in the battery have not engaged. Note there is a 500e cover plate over this area that's a bit tough to get off. Just pull all 4 corners straight up to lift it off.

ga2500ev

View attachment 110127
Will try this once battery is recharged. I am able to put in neutral and park. I will also try to erase the codes with my demo alphaobd software. Just disconnected humidity sensor even when I did not have any of the symptoms described,did it just because it might help. Curious about the home charger also. when plugged into receptical and not plugged in to car. The charger seems to initilize and then immediately led's closes to 120v plug blinks red and the led's towards the car plug blinks 4led pause 1led -1led. don't if thats also a problem or thats what it does until car recognize and links. looked up vin for recalls. Seems all (4) have been completed.

I should of put out there that I bought the car like this. The owner told me it had 5% on the HV battery. He told me it would not take a charge. He said he had a new 12v battery. when he brought it to me he could not get it off the trailer due to the 12v battery being dead. I put a charged battery in and the car was able to shift to neutral. He told me that the dealer thinks the BPCM is bad. That's all I know about the car. I knew the risk of owning the car with said prroblems. Now, i'm just trying to fix it with least amount of cash expended as possible. I don't really trust dealerships by the way. Thanks for all the suggestions thus far. Paid 3400 for it. Don't know if that's good or bad price for 2014 with 59k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Prior to installing charged 12v battery, voltage reading at pdu read 0v. Istalled battery and voltage read 5.4v. With ignition turned on 5,7v. Cleared codes with Alfaobd demo. Some came back as expected.
 

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I wonder if you deactivated the highly-problematic humidity sensor, rebooted the OEM charge cord, & confirmed the car's timers are deactivated.

5.4 & 5.7v readings sound awfully like a low 12v starter battery. You can check that at its own terminals after popping the hood, removing the key, & closing all 3 doors for 5 minutes (to attain sleep mode). The lowest mine ever started at was 11.3v, but once it failed at 11.7v. That may have been from the brake pump cycling on, which you can avoid by keeping the left door closed & starting it from the passenger side.

As ga2500ev noted, IF the 12v battery has sufficient power, it will connect the HV battery contacts when you open the left door, HOWEVER they only stay connected for about 20 seconds* unless you turn the key at least one click.
* Approx. I haven't timed it.

OBD only works when they're closed, at which time you can use it to check HV voltage:

"100%" on the car's gauge is about 4.1v/cell x 97 cells = 398v
"0%" on the car's gauge is about 3.1v/cell x 97 cells = 300v
 

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Will try this once battery is recharged. I am able to put in neutral and park. I will also try to erase the codes with my demo alphaobd software. Just disconnected humidity sensor even when I did not have any of the symptoms described,did it just because it might help. Curious about the home charger also. when plugged into receptical and not plugged in to car. The charger seems to initilize and then immediately led's closes to 120v plug blinks red and the led's towards the car plug blinks 4led pause 1led -1led. don't if thats also a problem or thats what it does until car recognize and links. looked up vin for recalls. Seems all (4) have been completed.

I should of put out there that I bought the car like this. The owner told me it had 5% on the HV battery. He told me it would not take a charge. He said he had a new 12v battery. when he brought it to me he could not get it off the trailer due to the 12v battery being dead. I put a charged battery in and the car was able to shift to neutral. He told me that the dealer thinks the BPCM is bad. That's all I know about the car. I knew the risk of owning the car with said prroblems. Now, i'm just trying to fix it with least amount of cash expended as possible. I don't really trust dealerships by the way. Thanks for all the suggestions thus far. Paid 3400 for it. Don't know if that's good or bad price for 2014 with 59k miles.
I now see post #12 where your reply quoted here doesn't show until opening the quoted text.

So I now see you've checked for recalls & deactivated your humidity sensor, which is good, since I now consider both of those as basic user prep to avoid future issues.

The charge-cord should not show any red LEDs when you plug into the car or it will show "service charging system".

Let us know if you don't have the charge-cord manual. I'm digging out mine now to see if your description fits any of the troubleshooting codes.
 

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Looks like you need to try a different A/C outlet. Other users have reported problems with the typical 99-cent outlets installed at most locations. Upgrading to a super-expensive $3 outlet is well advised.

Meanwhile, if you want to try an extension cord from another outlet:

(40) Anyone Using an Extension Cord? | Fiat 500 Forum (fiat500owners.com)

- 10awg is fine for 100 feet. .It's rated for 150 feet at 12A.
- 12awg is fine for 50'. It's rated for 100 feet at 12A.
- 14awg is fine for 25'. It's rated for for 75', sometimes even 100', but that seems risky.


- 16awg gets warm, especially if coiled upon itself. It IS rated for 50', so for emergency use check periodically for heat.
- 18awg melts! DO NOT USE!! It's so thin that many charts don't even list that thin at all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I now see post #12 where your reply quoted here doesn't show until opening the quoted text.

So I now see you've checked for recalls & deactivated your humidity sensor, which is good, since I now consider both of those as basic user prep to avoid future issues.

The charge-cord should not show any red LEDs when you plug into the car or it will show "service charging system".

Let us know if you don't have the charge-cord manual. I'm digging out mine now to see if your description fits any of the troubleshooting codes.
First, thank you for staying engaged with me on this issue. I really appreciate the effort.
The 12v battery had a full charge on it at installation. 13.3 v. I was able to connect and see BPCM information and will post most of pics as the status list was pretty long.
When I was clearing the codes. I heard a few clunks. The code for the BPCM came back as BPCM fault.

I think I will purchase the full version of alfaobd. Seems it will allow further testing that are not allowed with the demo version.
 

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You're welcome!

Please let us know what happens when the car is plugged into a proper source: When I plug my OEM charge-cord into the extension cord from the new outlet (on 1946 wiring!), it shows 2 red LEDs that then go green, & there are 4 other greens that come on one-by-one until finally there are 6 solid greens, after which the car charges fine, during which the 4 greens constantly cycle between all-off, & coming on one by one.

I believe someone else on this forum from New England area showed a BPCM fault, replaced it, & it ended up being something else. Does it have 2 transponder keys? I think BPCM would have issues if the former owner lost both keys & tried to start it with a non-transponder copy.

It might be time to try a 30-hour 12V disconnect, even if that was done before you tried code-clearing.

After that it might be time to try an HV disconnect, which has cleared others' stubborn codes.

There are several sequences to try, but for ANY of them make sure you have the key out for 3 minutes & keep it out, after opening the left door, & don't close or open ANY door or hatch until you're done (to avoid wake-up signal*):
  • Official "Service" sequence: Disconnect HV, disconnect 12V, reconnect HV, reconnect 12V.
  • Forum user's successful sequence: Disconnect & reconnect HV (5 min?), disconnect 12V for 5 minutes.
  • Official "Emergency" sequence: Disconnect 12V, disconnect HV (assumption is reconnect in reverse).
  • One more to maybe try: Disconnect HV, disconnect/reconnect 12V (5 min), reconnect HV.
* I used to think only the left door woke it up, since it's the only one that awakens the HV systems (contactor clunk), HOWEVER the other door and even the hatch can awaken the 12V systems (instrument screen lights up).
 

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Curious about the home charger also. when plugged into receptical and not plugged in to car. The charger seems to initilize and then immediately led's closes to 120v plug blinks red and the led's towards the car plug blinks 4led pause 1led -1led. don't if thats also a problem or thats what it does until car recognize and links.
OOPS! I finally checked charge-cord manual pics I sent above, & LED flashing code 4-1-1 says:

"Vehicle Interface Connector"
"Error with the Vehicle Charge Handle interface - Check for water or contamination in the vehicle charge port on vehicle charge handle".

Seems to me they mean "OR", not "on". Either way, it now seems like the outlet isn't the problem (even though that's usually the cause of charge-cord faults) & since it happens when not even plugged to the car, it's not likely the socket, but possibly the handle or cord is damaged. A common issue is orange socket cracks &/or bent/straightened pins, which might be able to damage the cord's plug-handle.

No matter what happens, you'll probably want a functioning 120V (L1) charge-cord, so if yours really has failed, after-market ones start at only $159 on Amazon. You might want to get one with at least the 16A max allowed by J1772 on 120v, & maybe even one of the ones that come with a 240v converter plug. That said, in very rare instances, other users have had small issues with non-OEM cords*, & once my own OEM seemed to reset my own car's "Service Charging System" error that I got at 2 different public chargers. One solution may be to start a new thread asking if any other owners live near enough & are willing to let you try their $600 OEM unit.

*Usually just failure to charge past 95 or 98%, but unless you're REALLY pushing the range, you only need to go to 100 every few months, & you can likely do that at a free public charger.
 
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