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2016 500e Dead HV Battery

5K views 59 replies 5 participants last post by  Electric Tire Shredder 
#1 ·
I've been following posts on the high voltage battery issues. I purchased a 2016 500e from a used car dealer about a month ago. It came without keys. I paid a diagnostic shop to install a new body control module (from the local Fiat dealer) and program two keys. The 12 volt battery was dry of electrolyte, which seemed to indicate a possible drained HV battery. I replaced the 12 volt battery with a new one. When I test the connections in the motor compartment for voltage (under a metal plate secured by three torx screws), I get 5 volts. I've purchased a Chromebook and Konwei plug and downloaded Alfaobd.com. I'm wa
iting for a yellow adapter.
Meanwhile, there's no contactor noise upon turning the key. The dash says "not ready."
Plugging in an OEM 110v charging cord get occasional "goalposts" but no steady charge indication.
I'm hoping to make this nice looking 2016 500e with 56k miles a runner, but so far I'm not hopeful.
I've followed the troubleshooting hints and searched youtube and googled for ideas.
Pleasant suggestions?
 
#3 ·
Please confirm that you:
  1. Left the humidity sensor unplugged
  2. Left the 12V and HV disconnected for 30+ hours
  3. Checked HV fuse continuity
  4. Made sure to reconnect HV per pics 3 to 6 of the sequence
  5. Checked for 12+ volts at the wires (in case of bad connection) or on OBD
  6. Cleared all faults in all modules incl. BPCM, OBCM, EVCM, PIM, etc.
  7. If still no clunk, reset contactors.
 
#8 ·
Since I was on my phone at the time, I should likely add a few more things about post #3:
  1. Left the humidity sensor unplugged
  2. Left the 12V and HV disconnected for 30+ hours
  3. Checked HV fuse continuity
  4. Made sure to reconnect HV per pics 3 to 6 of the sequence
  5. Checked for 12+ volts at the wires (in case of bad connection) or on OBD
  6. Cleared all faults in all modules incl. BPCM, OBCM, EVCM, PIM, etc.
  7. If still no clunk, reset contactors.
1. If the humidity sensor isn't just right of the rearview mirror, because the glass was replaced, you usually have to dig it out of the headliner. Pull perpendicular from the glass with each middle finger in the openings. Hold a round toothpick parallel to the glass & press straight into the crack to wedge the black socket away from the purple plug so you can yank it out. Leave it unplugged but you can tuck it in & hook the cover back on the left & snap up on the right:
Circuit component Machine Electronic engineering Electronic component Computer hardware


2. Preferably disconnect the 12V first & insert a piece of plastic or cardboard to prevent sparking it awake. It's fine to just do the negative, & leave the positive connected. Preferably reconnect 12V after reconnecting HV.

3. The HV fuse should test out like this:
Measuring instrument Gadget Communication Device Bicycle handlebar Audio equipment


4. Here's the HV disconnect/reconnect sequence: Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font
Click to enlarge, or scroll down for full-size pic since it's equally easy to get wrong or right.

6. As @fiatatat mentioned, note the faults before clearing, preferably selecting each one, to show their descriptions. Ideally get an OBDLink SX cable (or LX Bluetooth) so you can use the yellow adapter that's required to check modules such as the Body Computer.

7. Here's the contactor reset sequence:
Rectangle Slope Font Line Water




Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font
 
#4 ·
The contactors are supposed to clunk shut when the car is off & you open the door from the outside. About 10 or 20 seconds later they clunk open again. If you turn the key before that, there will be no additional clunk.

They should also clunk closed when you plug in, & clunk open about 15 seconds after unplugging, unless it's fully charged in which case they clunk themselves open.
 
#15 ·
...so please try to check max/min voltage like in post 6, & please confirm that you:
  1. Left the humidity sensor unplugged
  2. Left the 12V and HV disconnected for 30+ hours
  3. Checked HV fuse continuity
  4. Made sure to reconnect HV per pics 3 to 6 of the sequence
  5. Checked for 12+ volts at the wires (in case of bad connection) or on OBD
  6. Cleared all faults in all modules incl. BPCM, OBCM, EVCM, PIM, etc.
  7. If still no clunk, reset contactors.
 
#19 ·
Codes don't always have to clear in order for the car to work fine.
For example one owner had the 12V battery die of old age & replacement didn't fix it so it was towed to a dealership who wanted over $600 just to run a scan, saying it was likely the PIM.

The owner then had it towed out, unplugged the sensor, disconnected the 12V & HV for 2 days, and after clearing all the codes that would clear with the free AlfaOBD "demo" app it ran fine even though P1E25 & B23B0 "wouldn't" clear.

I put "wouldn't" in quotes because they would clear (later) when the key was turned from Off, only ONE click prior to OBD connection, & never turned 2 clicks.
 
#18 ·
...but I still recommend getting an OBDLink SX cable or LX Bluetooth in order to check & clear codes in the Body Computer & other modules that you can only access with a yellow adapter.

In the mean time, yes, step 5 above is to confirm that there's at least 12 volts in the system, because even a brand new battery can be drained pretty quickly, especially when there are error codes, & the contactors won't activate if it's just a bit too low. Sorry I don't know the exact number for your 2016 with its power-draining center screen, but someone reported that 11.9V was insufficient. It should show in OBD when you scroll down the BPCM data to see the top line here:
Font Number Document Circle


& please try to give us the HV pack's min voltage, so we can give a better guess about needing to drop the pack & charge cells individually. This shot is at 0.0000% (ran in neutral til it shut itself off):

Font Number Parallel Document Circle
 
#22 ·
Okay. It might require the contactors to close. Since that's not happening, I wonder if you'd be able to access the contactor enable function in the BPCM: View attachment 115434 View attachment 115433 & if you can access it, but it doesn't work, try the contactor tests a little higher up the procedure list in the 2nd pic of the 2nd sequence.
I’m unable to get the OBD Solutions LX101 with Autool yellow adapter to connect.
 
#23 ·
1) Please confirm that you're trying to connect with one of the following:

Airbag
Hands-free
Body computer
Climate control
Instrument panel
Parking
Radio
Tire control

They are the only ones that work with a yellow adapter.

2) Please confirm you're using an OBDLink LX:
Rectangle Packaging and labeling Office supplies Electronic device Font


3) Please confirm the Autool yellow adapter has:
  • Pin 6 on the diagnostic tool end of the adaptor is electrically connected to pin 1 on the car end of the adaptor.
  • Pin 14 on the diagnostic tool end of the adaptor is electrically connected to pin 9 on the car end of the adaptor.
  • Pin 7 on the diagnostic tool end of the adaptor is electrically connected to pin 12 on the car end of the adaptor.
Rectangle Font Parallel Communication Device Pattern

Pic courtesy of @jakjak
 
#24 ·
1) Please confirm that you're trying to connect with one of the following:

Airbag
Hands-free
Body computer
Climate control
Instrument panel
Parking
Radio
Tire control

They are the only ones that work with a yellow adapter.

2) Please confirm you're using an OBDLink LX:
View attachment 115439

3) Please confirm the Autool yellow adapter has:
  • Pin 6 on the diagnostic tool end of the adaptor is electrically connected to pin 1 on the car end of the adaptor.
  • Pin 14 on the diagnostic tool end of the adaptor is electrically connected to pin 9 on the car end of the adaptor.
  • Pin 7 on the diagnostic tool end of the adaptor is electrically connected to pin 12 on the car end of the adaptor.
View attachment 115440
Pic courtesy of @jakjak
 
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