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$3500 onboard Charging Module?!

1567 Views 35 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  ekvals
Hello all,
First time here, didn't really need to look in the past. Own a 2014 Fiat 500e since 2018 and have had 5 flawless years of ownership. Changed a couple tires a 12v battery, other than that... great car.

60k miles, just recently stopped taking a charge, called a bunch of repair shops in the area (San Fernando Valley) and none of them work on Electric cars, so had to have it towed to the dealer.

They told me it is the onboard charging module, part alone is $3k, plus another $500 to install. I'm a bit torn, we love the car, but that could be a deposit on something less than 9 years old.

Do they have refurbished units, or does anyone know a "mom and pop" shop that could do this repair for 1/3 the price? THank you all!
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The dealerships are useless. Even if it means a long tow, it makes sense to go to an independent EV shop.
Did you read the errors?
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@Hmbfiat got a new OBCM for $1900. Note the error near the beginning where it says "power inverter" instead of OBCM:

On board charger
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This is one of any number of items on our 8-10 year old 500e EVs that going to spell the end of their usage. Mine right now is the leaking Master Brake Cylinder on my 2014 500e which is spilling a full reservoir of brake fluid in less than a week. Got it to the dealer, which was a nightmare in and of itself, and they offered to replace it for $2100. I'm trying to figure out a cheaper option.

But the OBC is rough. Other than the batteries and the motor, it's the most important unit on the car.

A quick look shows a couple of units on E-bay. They are priced starting at $999:


The problem is finding someone who would be willing to swap them out. It isn't too difficult to do as the unit is right on the top of the engine bay under the hood. But it is liquid cooled, so it will require a coolant drain and flush to pull off. I posted a document with the removal and replacement procedure of the OBC as part of the PIM replacement here:


Take a read, or share it with a mechanic, and see if anyone is willing to help you out with it.

ga2500ev
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The dealerships are useless. Even if it means a long tow, it makes sense to go to an independent EV shop.
Did you read the errors?
Sadly I found this forum after sending to the dealer. I tried about 20 mechanics and no one would work on EV's. Then I sent it to the dealer as a last resort. I also didn't know I could read the codes.
This is one of any number of items on our 8-10 year old 500e EVs that going to spell the end of their usage. Mine right now is the leaking Master Brake Cylinder on my 2014 500e which is spilling a full reservoir of brake fluid in less than a week. Got it to the dealer, which was a nightmare in and of itself, and they offered to replace it for $2100. I'm trying to figure out a cheaper option.

But the OBC is rough. Other than the batteries and the motor, it's the most important unit on the car.

A quick look shows a couple of units on E-bay. They are priced starting at $999:


The problem is finding someone who would be willing to swap them out. It isn't too difficult to do as the unit is right on the top of the engine bay under the hood. But it is liquid cooled, so it will require a coolant drain and flush to pull off. I posted a document with the removal and replacement procedure of the OBC as part of the PIM replacement here:


Take a read, or share it with a mechanic, and see if anyone is willing to help you out with it.

ga2500ev
Yeah, right now I'm debating.... OK, I spend $3600 to fix at the dealer, that could either be a down payment on a new car, or if I get another year out of the car, that would be like a $300/month lease, which is not too bad.

But What if I put $3600 into it, then in 6 months I have to put another $2000 in to it... then I'm just throwing money into a fire.

Also, I'm sure its not worth much without a functioning OBC, so I can probably sell it for $1000 as is, or spend $3600 then be able to sell it for $6k?

Ugh.
Hey, it's still not too late. You can ask the dealership about what error codes they got. They have these in the documentation anyway.

In this forum, we already know about a few common scenarios, and often what the codes indicate directly, could be not the issue.

So the codes might give us a picture of what is happening. And then you can just see if it makes sense to actually get it towed to another shop that works with this type of vehicles. Or, even pay this dealership, as you won't be able to buy another EV for this kind of money, anyway.

Yesterday I dropped off my 500e at a shop in British Columbia, Canada. They don't "specialise" in EVs, but at this present moment they have three (sic!) 500e in their parking lot, and they don't see major issues with fixing them, it just takes some time. I will know more about them soon, but what I'm trying to say, these independent shops exist and they know how to deal with older EVs.
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Hey there, I live in the SFV too! What dealer did you end up going to?
Your post sparked me to search for EV specific repair shops in LA. Have you contacted Electric Ave in Silver Lake?
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@LBC 500 also recommended that Silver Lake shop.

it's still not too late. You can ask the dealership...
I agree it's not too late, but I wouldn't trust a dealership that's charging nearly double-price. Another SoCal forum member's car was towed to a dealership where they wanted over $600 just to run a scan. The owner got it towed back home & fixed it for $30 with a Konnwei KW902 dongle from Amazon (it's only $17 on eBay).

At least two other owners have run their own scans at dealerships. About the worst I can think of would be if they won't let you do that on their premises, so you bring a friend & push it onto the roadside.
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...Changed a couple tires a 12v battery... stopped taking a charge...had to have it towed...
Since it had to be towed, I wonder if it stopped driving at the same time as it stopped taking a charge, in which case the issue might not even be the OBCM.
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It
Since it had to be towed, I wonder if it stopped driving at the same time as it stopped taking a charge, in which case the issue might not even be the OBCM.
It still drives, but it only had 5% battery and would not make it driving to the dealership. Dang, really wish I had bought the scanner first.
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Hey there, I live in the SFV too! What dealer did you end up going to?
Your post sparked me to search for EV specific repair shops in LA. Have you contacted Electric Ave in Silver Lake?
I took it to Fiat of Van Nuys. I called a bunch of places, including Electric Ave and told him what the dealer told me and he said the same thing. Probably better off with the dealership, since he does not get a good discount on parts and he has a couple others waiting in line for the same part that is back ordered. The advantage of Fiat is they can get the part in a day or two from another dealer.
They also don't recommend using any refurbished or second hand parts, they tried that once and it was a $2000 mistake that didn't work out.
Did you try disconnecting the 12v battery and wait a while and reconnect, these cars are like computers on wheels, sometimes just needs a good ol reboot.
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Ya, a "hard" reboot is certainly worth a shot:
  1. Put it to sleep*, then disconnect the 12v battery, humidity sensor, & then the HV fuse under the back seat. Lock the right door from the inside, & the left door with the metal key in the outer handle.
  2. Wait 30+ hours, reconnect the HV**, then the 12v, & never, ever plug that sensor back in.
  3. Clear any error codes in every module you can access, making sure you only turn the key ONE click before connecting OBD, so it doesn't think the motor is on.
  4. Double-check the car's onboard charge timer (12V reconnect can activate the timers, preventing charging).
* 3 minutes of key off without opening OR closing any door or hatch, since those actions awaken it. Pop the hood first for 12v battery access.
** Follow the last 3 pics carefully:
Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font

"click to enlarge" version: Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font
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stopped taking a charge...
It still drives, but it only had 5%...
Since it drove, but just wouldn't charge, this is the checklist for that:
  • Check the orange socket for cracks or bent or straightened pins.
  • Deactivate the charge timer in the car’s menu. It can default itself to “active”.
  • Reboot the charger via reset button, unplug/replug, or circuit-breaker off/on.
  • Have the car in "ready" mode when plugging in (mandatory below -14F).
  • Try a different charger.
  • Hold down the button on the plug until it's all the way into the socket.
  • Plug into the OEM unit. It can reset some charge errors. Click to enlarge:
Product Communication Device Gadget Material property Rectangle

Left 2013-17. Right 2018-19.
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Hey, it's still not too late. You can ask the dealership about what error codes they got. They have these in the documentation anyway.

In this forum, we already know about a few common scenarios, and often what the codes indicate directly, could be not the issue.

So the codes might give us a picture of what is happening. And then you can just see if it makes sense to actually get it towed to another shop that works with this type of vehicles. Or, even pay this dealership, as you won't be able to buy another EV for this kind of money, anyway.

Yesterday I dropped off my 500e at a shop in British Columbia, Canada. They don't "specialise" in EVs, but at this present moment they have three (sic!) 500e in their parking lot, and they don't see major issues with fixing them, it just takes some time. I will know more about them soon, but what I'm trying to say, these independent shops exist and they know how to deal with older EVs.
There is another route; my local mechanic tells me he’ll repair anything conventional, just not HV issues.
If it indeed confirmed fauly a good electronics guy should be able to swap one or more of the internal components:

The OBCM assembly incorporates four inverter assemblies containing voltage rectifiers to
covert AC and DC voltage. The OBCM also contains three charger
assemblies with transformers to boost the input voltage up to 400V for proper HVBS charging
These components are packaged together as an assembly and are located in the under-hood
compartment mounted just above the electric drive unit.
if you decide you want to sell it as is . I'll buy it as is. if you want to pull it out of the dealer I could swap in a used one for you. much cheaper than dealer. don't see why it wouldn't work any less than any other used part. Of course nothing is 100%. message me if interested
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ICE guy here totally pulling for you guys, and hope that you can bring this car back to life for the OP!

With that said, the only thing I'd wonder out loud about is the following; Is the OBCM assembly "VIN Specific/Matched" such as is the BCM (Body Control Module) is in a Fiat 500 ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) model?

To clarify - if you swap a used OBCM into a different VIN Numbered 500 Electric, will there be an incompatibility issue that even a Proxy Alignment with MES (MultiECUScan) or AlfaOBD can't fix?

Hope that helps and good luck!
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