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I learned from a work friend that often those "Torx" head bolts can be turned with an Allen key, & that worked on my own 500e rear seatbelt bolts. Just find the size (metric or standard) that will just barely fit. If it's kind of loose it might strip the head, although then it would likely still work with the proper Torx tool, which you can probably get at Harbor Freight or True Value.
 

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If you already have a ratchet you can get just the T50 bit, probably for only a few bucks.

As for the hex key hack, on Google I can only find Allen-to-Torx conversions for T40 & smaller. I have about a hundred Allen keys, which is why I don't even know if it was Metric or inch size, but I can check when I get home in a few days. Use with caution: The trick to get more torque is to slip a box-end wrench (or Crescent wrench handle hole) over the end.
 

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I hope his comes off easier than mine. I used a 12" ratchet and it was a grunt the whole way out. I think they dipped those extra long bolts in JB Weld. (Some sort of super-bond gray adhesive.)
 

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I have to admit that having stripped way more than my fair share of bolt heads*, it felt like these very nearly stripped. Other Fiats may be slightly easier, but if others are even slightly harder, then the proper tool would be necessary.

*Among other things, I removed every single nut & bolt from a 15-year old 100,000-mile 240Z from the north-west coast (rust).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. 50 torx socket sounds best. Tried T handle hex with crescent wrench. No. Applied WD40 to try later.

I’m new here. Just bought 2013 500e. So glad to find an awesome friendly forum. Such a wonderful resource.
 

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I’ve had a T50 for over 47 years now. When I worked at the Chevy dealership. Bought one from Snap On, man. We used them to adjust door Striker pins, on GM cars, of the 70’s. They were also used to replace the seat belts, back then too. Mine has a replaceable tool end. Went though a bunch of tip ends, years ago.


The bolts are fasten in tight, with lock tight. Safety requirement. Takes a breaker bar, to remove the bolt.
 

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Maybe my 2013's prior owner removed them first. That could be why they weren't all that tight.

For future reference, WD40 isn't a very good penetrating lubricant, at least not compared to Liquid Wrench.
 

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Maybe my 2013's prior owner removed them first. That could be why they weren't all that tight.

For future reference, WD40 isn't a very good penetrating lubricant, at least not compared to Liquid Wrench.
Unless those bolts were really rusted. Never Penetrating lubricants won’t do any good. Those torx seat belt bolts are torque in. I’ve removed my share of them, in my past life.
 

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1/4" hex key is what I used BUT note my cautions above (finally home with time to check).

I have an 8" Crescent wrench, so using its handle hole gave me about as much leverage as a breaker bar or long ratchet, as would any sufficient-sized box-end wrench.

The bolts go back IN a BIT easier but in the unlikely event you're going to be doing it more than once or twice like me, a T50 & long ratchet would be much better.
 

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I had the correct torx socket, but had to take mine to a local auto mechanic. Built like Arnold Schwarzenegger, even he needed to use a 24"breaker bar! Didn't charge me anything, but wow, my bolts were in there "for life". ?
 

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I had the correct torx socket, but had to take mine to a local auto mechanic. Built like Arnold Schwarzenegger, even he needed to use a 24"breaker bar! Didn't charge me anything, but wow, my bolts were in there "for life".
I can relate. It took a couple whacks w/ the plastic mallet to get it moving, then the threads were coated in cement 3/4 the way out.
 

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Maybe it's not year-dependent, or prior removal, but just how much adhesive/sealant they happened to apply. There's probably a significant difference between the minimum & maximum allowed, & maybe whoever assembled mine was being thrifty, or they wanted to do one more before refilling the container.
 

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I get the impression that a lot of the owners of these cars are a bit less gear headed than I am. I had the right tools and grunt to get these out but i will say that in the future if any of you struggle with any fastener, if there’s a way to put heat on it then that always (always) helps.

if youre really well equipped then you can get out the induction heater :)
 

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Maybe it's not year-dependent, or prior removal, but just how much adhesive/sealant they happened to apply. There's probably a significant difference between the minimum & maximum allowed, & maybe whoever assembled mine was being thrifty, or they wanted to do one more before refilling the container.
I would guess they were done by a robot and were all done to a specific torque.
 
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