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Right. The only way to get fresh vent air without A/C is with ALL the left-side HVAC lights off, including the "off" light ("off" shuts off the intake vents). The only way I know to describe how to get that for sure is to keep hitting any light that's on, until they're all off. Then like Kiesling noted, to keep the heater off, lower the temp until it says "LO" (60 is the lowest actual number on my 2013).

You can then often avoid needing A/C if you crank the fan, with the passenger vents closed if you're solo, for maximum personal airflow. However keep in mind that A/C doesn't use as much power as driving a bit faster, so it usually burns more range if you try to drive faster in order to arrive before you get too hot.

I think the "Auto" setting is over-rated. If you set the temp it will auto-heat or auto-cool to that temp. You can save power by using recirc when heating, AND with a/c IF you're trying to make it COLDER inside than outside (just check the speedo's temp gauge). I'm pretty sure the "auto" setting won't do that.
 

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I tried setting my AC to low and it still didn't work and continued blowing hot air for a while. I also made sure I did not set it to auto but it was still blowing hot air. I think if all these still does not work you should bring the air con for servicing. I read some online that air con servicing would be the best resort as the coolant level was low in my case. Don't think you can solve it just by pressing some buttons
 

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Right, pressing buttons solves only the mystery of how to get fresh outside air without A/C.

I assume you're trying it with the motor "started" (display shows "ready"), & the A/C button light is on. Set at "Lo" with the fan on & vents open mine blows pretty cold, pretty fast, & cools the whole cabin quickly, but the latter is really just a function of its small volume, plus my car is white so it doesn't get as hot as a darker color.

Low motor coolant levels don't affect A/C.
 

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I have an issue where my car only blows cold air when I am travelling on the highway with the engine working hard. I don't know if you guys have the same issues but I read online on some air con servicing websites that it could be something to do with low coolant levels or the car battery being faulty. I got my coolant restocked and now everything is fine.
 

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2017 Fiat 500e (Billet Argento), 2015 VW Golf Sportwagen TSI 5MT (Tungsten Silver), 2002 Honda VFR
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Mine blows ice cold...
Same here when it was 104 outside I was enjoying the ice cold breeze. Best part is it works better then a gasser car where it’s most efficient is while driving since the compressor is depending on engine rpm.
 

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"Coolant" (#42 & 44 above) probably mean "refrigerant".

Coolant is for the motor/HVbatt/electronics, & low levels (within reason) have no effect on A/C.
 

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Note that for the 500e, battery comfort takes precedence over passenger comfort. If it's way hot outside, the A/C is probably more concerned with cooling the battery than the occupant. Yes, the A/C does cool the battery.
 

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It is supposed to, but apparently only at VERY high temps, because I once saw 113F on the display, while L2 charging, & A/C still didn't come on.
 

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It is supposed to, but apparently only at VERY high temps, because I once saw 113F on the display, while L2 charging, & A/C still didn't come on.
Mine never came on either at 118f BUT in fairness that’s ambient air doesn’t mean the pack is that hot. Same way even if it’s 118 outside but your trunk under storage is nowhere near that hot. There is a good to fair chance your pack isn’t that hot despite ambient air being that hot.
 

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Okay, but after several hours the 113F heat would be soaking in, plus I'd been driving for a while, which creates its own battery heat, then plugged into L2 which also creates its own battery heat, yet still A/C stayed off.

Even if Ele Truk's scenario actually happens, where A/C reduces cabin cooling in order to save the battery, it wouldn't seem to do that until it's VERY hot out. Supposedly, the battery's efficiency (range) keeps increasing until it's at least around 125F. OBD indicates thermal warning activates at 131F (55C), so maybe A/C kicks in then.
 

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I’m pretty sure the ac cooling the battery is only in extreme cases I believe the liquid heat exchanger work sufficiently enough. I mean can you imagine if it was reliant on it and sometime down the line the Freon leaks on the car which it eventually does on almost every car some point if you didn’t have that AC cooling would your car just have a meltdown? I think that AC cooling only activates as a last resort/backup if liquid cooling can’t keep up. Plus I don’t know if you seen it it’s just a chiller plate on the bottom it’s nothing extravagant just a aluminum plate that sits under the banks of batteries it doesn’t pass through the cells or anything.
 

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Right, & as you note, the chiller plate is nearly always sufficient even with just "passive" liquid cooling.

That chiller plate below the battery does effectively surround each cell module: The chiller plate has metal cases attached, which surround each module, & are chilled via direct conduction with the lower plate.

Very good point that to prevent "meltdown", anyone who might encounter extreme heat should keep their A/C maintained. It's not listed in the maintenance schedule, & I don't see it in the User Guide, but the Owner Manual DOES recommend yearly service:

Manual pdf page 295-297 says: "...air conditioner should be checked and serviced by an authorized studio at the start of each warm season. This service should include cleaning of the condenser fins and air conditioning performance tests."
 
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