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Installing the equipment requires permits. There's a process.

Physically though - can you push power through the port back out? Can you power a campsite por ejemplo?
 

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Installing the equipment requires permits. There's a process.

Physically though - can you push power through the port back out? Can you power a campsite por ejemplo?
Not with a 500e as currently configured. The J1772 charge port is a one way connection out to the car.

DCFC ports facilitate an easier connection because it essentially gives direct access to the high voltage battery. At that point there would need to be an inverter that takes high voltage DC and inverts it into house AC. This could be external to the vehicle. The primary physical item required for DCFC access in the car are high voltage contactors. The secondary issue, which is the real problem, is that there must be a connection protocol that facilitates a safe connection before those contactors are engaged. There's no easy way to solve that software issue with DCFC protocols that do not have V2G incorporated into them.

ga2500ev
 

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Does anyone have knowledge of the actual physical components you't have to install to use the car to deliver power into your house? Like can the vehicle even discharge through the port?

Leave permitting and your utility nerc/ferc out of it.
onboard the car you'd need a grid tie inverter(something like this Products - Solar Inverters - RPI Series (7kw) - Delta Group), a control system to tell the inverter when it should supply power to the plug and convince the battery pack to close it's contactors to energize the inverter. Then a charger that knew when to close the contactor to draw power from the car instead of feed power to it.


OR,

You could setup your own connector wired to the HV contactors to carry battery current to a remote mounted grid tie inverter. Of course this requires the same control system in the car to control it, and keep the batteries from overdrawing. And essentially the same thing on the static side (house) to convert the ~365VDC to 240VAC and match it with the mains.
 

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I searched out that other member I mentioned above, with the sound system powered directly from the HV batt:

 

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onboard the car you'd need a grid tie inverter(something like this Products - Solar Inverters - RPI Series (7kw) - Delta Group), a control system to tell the inverter when it should supply power to the plug and convince the battery pack to close it's contactors to energize the inverter. Then a charger that knew when to close the contactor to draw power from the car instead of feed power to it.


OR,

You could setup your own connector wired to the HV contactors to carry battery current to a remote mounted grid tie inverter. Of course this requires the same control system in the car to control it, and keep the batteries from overdrawing. And essentially the same thing on the static side (house) to convert the ~365VDC to 240VAC and match it with the mains.
This is kind of what I was thinking. Possibly make a T-harnes for the factory battery connectors that gives you a parallel connection directly to the batterie's DC HV? Then just run HV cable to you solar system inverter.

Buying a wrecked 500e and using the battery for your off grid or grid tied system could be several thousands cheaper than say a tesla power wall and have double the Kw.
 

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As I sat in the dark, in the middle of hurricane Laura, contemplating when to drag out my Generac RS5500 I had some time to think about this and how much I need a solar panel system with battery backup. Currently we are still out of power, probably for days, and running the essentials(Mini split AC, Fridge, Deep Freezer and peripherals). Burning through about 5 gals of gas every 12hrs.

Looking under the hood, my initial thoughts. Tap into the power distribution box. Get a used one, cut wires and run to terminal block mounted near firewall. Do the same for the other end of the connectors. Then come off the terminal block in parallel to a circuit breaker mounted nearby under the hood.

From there some sort of cannon plug or wire straight to solar power inverter. This should allow a plug and play option for direct access to the battery voltage and allow the car to operate in the Ready mode to monitor/cool batteries, hopefully without any codes or hiccups. Thoughts?

This is the solar power system I was looking to get
 

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This guy's HV stereo system is promising and proves you can tap into the HV battery 07:10.

His main breaker is exactly where I had planned to put one, but instead of splicing in at the main battery connector, I would like to make it plug and play at the power distribution module.

He said the car did notice the splice when he cut the shielding, but once he spliced the shielding back, no issued tapping the HV.
109089
 
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