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Years ago when I was growing up working at my dads shop (he had a Porsche, Audi repair shop), he never let me work on a car with a carb. Back in the 70's he told me that carbs will be going away and I should learn everything about fuel injection. I did. At least he was right. I dread the day I end up with his 1968 VW Bus because it has a 911 engine and a set of Zeniths on it. Lucky for me, those original Zeniths cost a fortune today and I can use that money to convert that engine to fuel injection and still have some left over. That and getting rid of the points distributor will be the first things I do to it.
 

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I've rebuilt probably 100 carbs in my lifetime. The Webers always seemed to be okay until you had to open them up; then they'd never seal right again.
 

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I do know that 911's with Webers (Porsche either put Webers or Zeniths on them) had more of a tendency of catching fire and burning the car to the ground. That was because they would leak fuel into the intake and it would ignite dripping onto a hot intake valve when you'd shut it off (a 911 had two triple barrel carbs on it and it was a straight shot down to the intake valve).

If you really want something complex, work on a 911 with Mechanical Fuel Injection. There's got to be 200 different adjustments on it. We used to even have to drive around with a CO meter (exhaust sniffer) that Bosch made which ran off of 12V and clamped to the exhaust pipe with a small hose running inside the car. The driver had to drive the car under certain conditions while the passenger wrote down what the gauge indicated. You'd stop and then have to go adjust the injection pump with a special tool.

My dad would spend hours on a 911 with carbs on it to get it running right (last thing you wanted was a customer complaint about drivability). He even did the carb work on those awful Lambo's that had four of those Webers on that V12 engine. That took like a whole day of adjustment to get it right. Plus they had those horrible Marelli Ignition distributors that looked like someone decided to make the most complex method to to change the points and set the dwell. Even Porsche had those distributors for a while and everyone threw them away to put in a Bosch unit that actually worked.

Yes, the good old days. When cars ran like garbage most of the time because the weather was not just right.
 

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Years ago when I was growing up working at my dads shop (he had a Porsche, Audi repair shop), he never let me work on a car with a carb. Back in the 70's he told me that carbs will be going away and I should learn everything about fuel injection. I did. At least he was right. I dread the day I end up with his 1968 VW Bus because it has a 911 engine and a set of Zeniths on it. Lucky for me, those original Zeniths cost a fortune today and I can use that money to convert that engine to fuel injection and still have some left over. That and getting rid of the points distributor will be the first things I do to it.
I remember those Zeniths! I used to work on them on a Class 5 Baja Bug. Also worked with a Bosch 010 distributor too. And the '60's VW Squareback mechanical fuel injection. Wow, long time.
 

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My 2012 Fiat 500 Sport had/has the same issue. Maybe this is my car! LOL! Brought it to a dealer in Orange County on May 1, 2016. 66k miles. I change oil as recommended every 4K and get all recommended maintenance. Average middle aged driver so no crazy acceleration or wild driving. Would love your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
did you get to see the failed camshaft? I'm curious if the lobe cracked on yours
 

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I have a Fiat 500 with 88K miles. One evening it was fine when I parked it. The next morning it was misfiring on #3. After replacing plugs, and ignition coil 3, with no improvement, I trailered it to a reputable shop and they quickly discovered that lobe #2 on cam had spun and cracked. It cost me almost 1200.00 to replace it. Got the car back and it is still misfiring, idling super rough, and check engine light is on. Back to shop where they are now telling me that valve actuator body may have experienced mechanical failure due to compression issue and they want another 1,800 bucks to replace that. How do I know that is the problem or that replacing the actuator will correct the problem? Help! I'm driving the car, but it pulses in gear on the road, it idles super rough at stops, and I have no idea what to do now.
 

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I had the same thing happen to me. My 2012 Lounge with a little over 4 years and 47k mileage stared misfiring on cylinder 3 after driving it approximately 200 miles at 75-80 mph the day before. I replaced plugs and coil packs. That wasn't it. I do have 4 good coil packs if someone needs one. Took it to the dealer in Tysons Corner VA. They said my camshaft lobe cracked. As I was just out of warranty I wasn't very happy. I told the dealer they had to do something or social media would learn that my "fix it again tony" had engine failure at less that 50K. He called Fiat and got back to me pretty quickly. His offer was to charge me $150 which was the deductible if I had an extended warranty which I didn't to fix it. I though that was a good deal because they replaced the whole top end. So everything above the short block was replaced. The car runs great and burns little oil. I asked to have the old camshaft and he said he couldn't. He had to send the whole top back to Fiat so the could inspect it and see what happened. Car has 76K on it now. No issues other that the car satred howling and I think it is either the rear of left front wheel bearings.
 

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anyone had a camshaft failure? I had a customers' car come in this past week and #2 intake lobe was cracked and loose on the cam tube. The dealer parts guy told me they hadn't seen a single cam failure yet
My 2013 500 Pop had misfire code cylinder1... We changed the plugs, coils, and got a used multiair and it still misfires. Today we discovered the camshaft has a crack on the first lobe... I hope they replacing that fixes the problem. Wish me luck.
 

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Sorry for bringing up a dead post but my 1.4t dart has this same exact failure on the #1 intake lobe. What was the overall solution to this issue? Just replace the camshaft?
 

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I replaced the camshaft, the carrier, the multiair, the head. Basically rebuilt it and it started running again. But I ended up selling it because I didn’t want to deal with it breaking down and being without a car for months... also it cost an arm and a leg to fix and find parts. The car was less than 50,000 miles. Very disappointed.
 
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