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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The 500e sometimes shows a warning or error even when everything is working fine, & sometimes something won't work JUST due to an erroneous code.
EDIT: Updated 5/8/21

There are really only 7 things to try. Here's the list, with details below:
  1. Check for recalls.
  2. Check for over 11.5V at the battery terminals.
  3. Permanently unplug the humidity sensor.
  4. OBD code clear.
  5. Multiple key cycles.
  6. 12V battery disconnect.
  7. HV battery disconnect.


FIRST check for recalls that can be done by ANY FCA dealer (like Dodge, Jeep, Ram...) by entering the VIN here: Lookup FCA Vehicle Recalls by VIN | Official Mopar® Site

& check that the 12V battery is good. Even when it's technically "dead" the car will often start but cause errors. & it can fully die in only 23 months of normal use. Mine works fine even at only 11.6V after parking unplugged overnight, but ideally take it to a car parts store that does free load testing.

Deactivate the humidity sensor just right of rearview. It's useless & can cause many false alarms, including ABS, RBS, ESC, HSA, PRND, SRS (airbag) etc. Mine's been unplugged 5 years:

Now try any of these, whichever is easiest for you first, since if one works, you're done!:

A) Alfa OBD code clear. May require clearing 2 or more of the separate control units 2 or more times each.

B) Key off 3 minutes. Repeat if needed, up to 10 times. (the most I've ever needed is 3 times off 1.5min, others say 3 min 5-10 times, nhtsa says 3-5min for "sleep" mode).

C) Key off 5-min*, THEN disconnect 12V. 30 seconds worked for me, but when that failed for someone else, & so did 30 min, 30 hours worked.

D) HV disconnect:

1) With the car in "ready" mode if possible, open the hood & left door & don't open or close anything else** for the entire process, to avoid "wake up" signal.

2) Remove the key, wait 3 minutes for "sleep" mode.

3) Remove the orange HV plug under the rear seat bottom, disconnect the 12V, replace the HV plug, & reconnect the 12V*.

IF that doesn't work, there are at least 3 other sequences to try, but for ANY of them make SURE to first do steps 1 & 2 above:

3b) RatfinkHarley's successful sequence, confirmed by BoggleMe, AFTER trying #3 above with no luck: Disconnect & reconnect HV (5 min?), disconnect 12V for 5 minutes.

3c) Official "Emergency" sequence: Disconnect 12V, disconnect HV (assumption is reconnect in reverse).

3d) Disconnect HV, disconnect/reconnect 12V (5 min), reconnect HV.


* Officially recommended by nhtsa.gov Most likely 3 minutes off is also plenty for 12V disconnect, since it's sufficient for HV disconnect.

** I used to think only the left door woke it up, since it's the only one that awakens the HV systems (contactor clunk), HOWEVER the other door and even the hatch can awaken the 12V systems (instrument screen lights up).
 

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Hi
I have a great 2016 with 17,500 miles - but now got the EV System Malfunction Indicator light right after the last 100% 240 charge. U69 not done due to distant dealers in Olympic Peninsula area of WA. Car seems fine. Going to replace battery to begin Electric Tire Shredder's list if trying to see if I get it to go out and thus avoid a 70 mile trip in the winter. Question: Any advice re the actual removal and replacement with a Group 47 (H5) AGM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
AGM is not so good for heat, which is what kills our 12Vs located adjacent to the hot onboard charger. Plain old flooded cells like the OEM are better for heat. Gel might be a consideration though, especially if you downsize so the cost isn't so high. I recently switched from a $20 1/20th-size 3Ah AGM to a $35 1/10-size 6Ah gel motorbike unit, which is good for over 11 days parked unplugged with the alarm off in mild coastal southern CA. For freezing coastal WA I might go for a $50 12Ah, depending on how long I wanted to park unplugged without having to bother with the blue-knobbed cutoff switch shown below.

Click to enlarge:
3Ah AGM lasts 5 days, or a week with no alarm.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive battery Automotive design

6Ah GEL lasts over 11 days with no alarm.
Hood Motor vehicle Coil Electrical wiring Engineering
 

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Thanks - see you moved discussion and read that. However, after talking with my (164) Alfa mechanic, who like me is ignorant in the EV world, he suggests I just take your other advice and get the OEM 12 volt so that, if I have to take it in, the conservative and by-the-book dealer does not freak out (difference of less than $75 here).
But I do have four further questions, if you don't mind:
1. Is the new battery like to clear the warning light since all else seemed fine and never had any strangeness until the light?
2. Is there any particular order to disconnect and reconnect terminals?
3. Is your order above to be followed as to the next steps after battery installed?
4. I suppose you had the U69 recall performed (which I will not do until summer if I can clear the light)?
I do appreciate your time and insights!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Note that there were NO error codes or ANY other issues when I switched to the 3Ah, or later when I switched to the 6Ah, so any mechanic should be able to see that any issue is not from it. In fact if someone emptied the OEM case & put a 12Ah inside, nobody would know the difference, unless they either did a load test, or left it parked unplugged for about 3 weeks for it to finally drain too far to start. Even then they'd likely just hook it up to a 12V charger (or plug the car in) & be good to go.
  1. IF your 12v starter battery is causing the problem, which is highly likely IF it's original now maybe around 5 years old (check mfr date on door or its frame - sorry I can't remember which it is). BUT I would first either check it, or try a 30-hour disconnect & ten 3-minute key offs before wasting my money on a new 12V. IF you replace it, you may still get error codes that require key cycles or OBD to clear. If you DON'T replace it, or 2 years after you do, GET A JUMPSTARTER & keep it charged.
  2. There's no 12V disconnect "order", since you only need to remove ONE terminal, preferably the negative since the wrench can't short against anything (unless the positive's red protector cover is missing), it's easier to reach at the front end, & it's solid metal with "only" a 45-degree bolt offset, unlike the plastic positive with a 90-degree offset!
  3. If there are still issues after 12V replacement, yes, follow the order, but note the "order" of the 5 steps is "whatever's easiest first".
  4. I did have U69 done (as noted on the 12V downsizing thread) around a year or so after it was issued! But I guess you're even better than me at procrastinating. HOWEVER, as long as you keep an eye on things like you seem to be doing, it shouldn't be a problem. The issue is that without U69, when the 12V becomes unchargeable, the HV drive battery tries to charge it, & will keep futilely supplying it with power until it dies itself! THEN if you leave it parked for a while the HV can have a catastrophic failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Post #1 now has humidity sensor deactivate moved up to do BEFORE the numbered list.

That's because someone just reported 12V disconnect didn't work until AFTER unplugging the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for pointing that out. That is the official EMERGENCY procedure for the safety of humans, animals & property BESIDES the car.

I advise using the officially recommend procedure in post #1 to SERVICE the car, however as I noted, a THIRD different sequence worked for at least one other user.
 

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The 500e sometimes shows a warning or error even when everything is working fine, & sometimes something won't work JUST due to an erroneous code.
EDIT: Updated 5/8/21

FIRST check for recalls
that can be done by ANY FCA dealer (like Dodge, Jeep, Ram...) by entering the VIN here:

Lookup FCA Vehicle Recalls by VIN | Official Mopar® Site

& check that the 12V battery is good. Even when it's technically "dead" the car will often start but cause errors. & it can fully die in only 23 months of normal use. Mine works fine even at only 11.6V after parking unplugged overnight, but ideally take it to a car parts store that does free load testing.

Deactivate the humidity sensor just right of rearview. It's useless & can cause many false alarms, including ABS, RBS, ESC, HSA, PRND, SRS (airbag) etc. Mine's been unplugged 5 years:

Now try any of these, whichever is easiest for you first, since if one works, you're done!:

A) Alfa OBD code clear. May require clearing 2 or more of the separate control units 2 or more times each.

B) Key off 3 minutes. Repeat if needed, up to 10 times. (the most I've ever needed is 3 times off 1.5min, others say 3 min 5-10 times, nhtsa says 3-5min for "sleep" mode).

C) Key off 5-min*, THEN disconnect 12V. 30 seconds worked for me, but when that failed for someone else, & so did 30 min, 30 hours worked.

D) HV disconnect:

1) With the car in "ready" mode if possible, open the hood & left door & don't open or close anything else** for the entire process, to avoid "wake up" signal.

2) Remove the key, wait 3 minutes for "sleep" mode.

3) Remove the orange HV plug under the rear seat bottom, disconnect the 12V, replace the HV plug, & reconnect the 12V*.

IF that doesn't work, there are at least 3 other sequences to try, but for ANY of them make SURE to first do steps 1 & 2 above:

3b) RatfinkHarley's successful sequence, confirmed by BoggleMe, AFTER trying #3 above with no luck: Disconnect & reconnect HV (5 min?), disconnect 12V for 5 minutes.

3c) Official "Emergency" sequence: Disconnect 12V, disconnect HV (assumption is reconnect in reverse).

3d) Disconnect HV, disconnect/reconnect 12V (5 min), reconnect HV.


* Officially recommended by nhtsa.gov Most likely 3 minutes off is also plenty for 12V disconnect, since it's sufficient for HV disconnect.

** I used to think only the left door woke it up, since it's the only one that awakens the HV systems (contactor clunk), HOWEVER the other door and even the hatch can awaken the 12V systems (instrument screen lights up).
 

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Hi
I am not good at all at fixing things by myself. My car is now sitting in my driveway disabled and the nearest dealer is 75 miles away. Any chance you could personally guide me thru that process? Thank you.
 

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Hi
I am not good at all at fixing things by myself. My car is now sitting in my driveway disabled and the nearest dealer is 75 miles away. Any chance you could personally guide me thru that process? Thank you.
Disabled exactly how? Does it turn on? Can you shift it into drive/reverse? Can you charge it? What error messages are showing up on the screen?

Do you have a OBD reader similar to this:


and access to an Android phone.

Please answer the questions and then maybe we can figure out what can be done.

ga2500ev
 

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Disabled exactly how? Does it turn on? Can you shift it into drive/reverse? Can you charge it? What error messages are showing up on the screen?

Do you have a OBD reader similar to this:


and access to an Android phone.

Please answer the questions and then maybe we can figure out what can be done.

ga2500ev
Thank you for your reply. I had the 12 volts batte changed. The lights on the dashboard are on but i cannot shift to drive.
Speedometer Trip computer Gauge Watch Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The easiest thing to start with is cycling the key on, then off for 3 minutes, then back on & off again for another 3 minutes.... Sometimes 5 cycles will do it, sometimes 10.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you don't want to wait the full 3 minutes you have to watch for the speedometer screen to go fully black, not just really dark grey. Then it's "asleep" so you can turn on/off again until it goes black again...

While you're doing that, you can go online & check for recalls by entering your vin here:
Lookup FCA Vehicle Recalls by VIN | Official Mopar® Site

Then if you're still doing key cycles because it hasn't worked yet, you can go online & order an OBD dongle from the link in post #17 above from ga2500ev.
 
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