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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was nice enough today to get the fiat clayed, buffed, and sealed.


Washed, clayed with claymagic blue clay, polished with UNO on a white LC CCS pad, sealed with Poxy on a blue LC CCS pad. I have yet to touch the wheels/suspension/wheel wells. Ill save that for once the weather is nicer and i have some extra time.


There were a few dealer installed swirls and scratches, all of which were corrected/removed.




Pics in somewhat of an order:




After claying the hood, definitely some bonded contaminants from sitting on the dealers lot, etc etc.





Nasty dirty claybar..





Prime the pad with pinnacle pad conditioner, 1-2 sprays







Uno, the best compound/polish i have EVER used.



Four pea sized drops to start, 3 pea sized drops after that. Roughly will cover a 2x2 foot area.



Some reflection shots after polishing(no cutting needed, very light and minor defects):


Hood





1/4 panel



Door



Had a few scratches from the dealer, this is one of the worst ones:





and corrected:





Chrome trim polished out as well.



After i had the paint where i wanted it, i switched to a blue LC pad, and applied the hd Poxy.


Poxy was applied to the paint, glass, and black trim.














Let the poxy cure for about 20 minutes or so, and here are the results:


































I will try to get some sun shots tomorrow, was too dark this evening once i was finished.
 

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Looks beautiful. Can't get a better mirror effect with any other color, I reckon. Would look wicked with mirror tinted windows!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks beautiful. Can't get a better mirror effect with any other color, I reckon. Would look wicked with mirror tinted windows!
I eventually want to tint the windows, but mirror is illegal in my state. Id like to go with 20% all around, which is still illegal, but less noticeable than mirror tint.
 

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FOP plate? And yea, no lol. Im going to be starting a new job pretty soon, which is going to soak up a LOT of my time haha
FOP is Fraternal Order of Police, just saw the symbol and at a glance it is similar, as for the address it was worth a shot, good luck/congrats on the new job deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
FOP is Fraternal Order of Police, just saw the symbol and at a glance it is similar, as for the address it was worth a shot, good luck/congrats on the new job deal.
Ohhh yea, their police association plates. I donate every year, as well as a portion of my registration goes toward the association.

Thanks for the luck too!
 

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Ohhh yea, their police association plates. I donate every year, as well as a portion of my registration goes toward the association. Thanks for the luck too!
Similar but not exact, the one I have can only be gotten by actual police, still I bet it helps for those with a heavier foot, really cool you give. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Similar but not exact, the one I have can only be gotten by actual police, still I bet it helps for those with a heavier foot, really cool you give. :cool:
Its a give and take thing IMO. Im not looking to get out of anything, but if for some reason, i do get caught for something minor, and it helps me to keep out of trouble, i wont complain. I actually fully support law enforcement. Many people dont like police officers, but they have a job to do, just like anyone else, and if you get caught breaking the law, youre the one to blame lol.
 

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Nice. But for us folks who aren't quite so obsessed, can you give a quick translation of 'clay', 'LC CCS' and 'poxy'? Just to give us a head start on trying to find local equivalent products.

Otherwise, is this the sort of treatment you would do after a year or two, or is this a concours kind of thing? Interesting also to see the change in the scratch. I, at least, could use a bit of education on this stuff.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice. But for us folks who aren't quite so obsessed, can you give a quick translation of 'clay', 'LC CCS' and 'poxy'? Just to give us a head start on trying to find local equivalent products.

Otherwise, is this the sort of treatment you would do after a year or two, or is this a concours kind of thing? Interesting also to see the change in the scratch. I, at least, could use a bit of education on this stuff.

Thanks,

Clay = Claybar. It removes any contaminants that have bonded to the paint over time. It is literally a bar of clay, you spray on a quik detailer for lubricant, and you glide the claybar over the surface of the paint(and glass as well). It also removes any old wax/sealer, and gives a nice, clean, fresh surface to work with. There are quite a few claybar kits sold at auto parts stores, mainly meguiars, mothers, and claymagic. The meguiars and mothers come with a very fine claybar, which is good for removing light contamination. The clay magic kit comes with a medium claybar, which will remove light to medium contamination. There are also other claybars out there, which are much more aggressive, which is good for very badly contaminated paint, but can also cause scratching and swirling because it is so abrasive. Its not that big of a deal if you are going to be cutting/polishing the paint, as it will remove the scratching the aggressive claybar causes.


LC is short for Lake Country, the manufacturer that makes the pads that I use. CCS stands for Collapsed Cell Structure, the type of foam used in the pads.


Poxy is the paint sealant that I use. It is made by 3D car care(along with the UNO that I use for cutting/polishing).


Mostly everything I use has to be ordered online, as its not sold in stores.


As far as the detailing goes, i typically do this every year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. The spring detail is to decontaminate the paint from the winter weather, salts, etc, and get the paint to perfect condition again. Before applying the paint sealant, the paint needs to be stripped of any leftover sealant, so that the polymers in the sealant can bond to the paint. After stripping the paint with the claybar, its a good time to polish out any scratches, swirls, etc, before you apply the sealant/wax.

The fall detail is to once again, decontaminate the paint, and get it ready for the winter months.


Now, most people use wax on their cars, which i dont do anymore. Wax will typically last about a month, on average, before it breaks down and needs to be re-applied. Wax is mainly made from natural waxes, carnuba, etc etc. Paint sealant is a synthetic paint protection, that actually bonds to the clearcoat, and gives a VERY good protective barrier from UV light, minerals, and everyday environmental fallout that will degrade paint over time. Most waxes will protect to a certain extent, but most waxes dont protect from UV rays, which can oxidize and discolor paint(this is why paint fades).

There are quite a few paint sealants available. for a while, i was using Meguairs #20, which is a 100% synthetic paint sealant. Works fantastic, makes the paint look like there is a hard shell over it. After a while, I switched over the the HD Poxy. It is a blend of the synthetic polymer sealant and carnuba waxes. It gives the look of a deep, wet looking natural wax, but with the protection of a polymer sealant. The nice thing about paint sealants, depending on which one, will last from 4-8 months, given that you keep the car clean.

One popular over the counter(readily available at auto parts stores) paint sealant is Meguiars NXT 2.0. Its marketed as a "wax", but is actually a paint sealant. A LOT of people complain about it, saying that it is hard to remove once applied, but there is a reason for that. Pint sealants need to be left on the surface of the paint for 15-30 minutes before wiping the excess off. The polymers in the sealant need time to bond to the paint, and if you just apply and wipe right away, its VERY hard to remove.


For the last 3-4 years, i have used paint sealants with no ill effects, they really have every advantage over traditional wax. It is especially nice, not having to re-apply every month, because where i live, we get snow, and no one wants to wax their car in the winter, in the cold..


Sorry for the long post, but hopefully it clears a few things up for you. If you have any questions, dont hesitate to ask, im always willing to help another member out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd say 2012nerosport could better suggest judging from the time and effort he has put into the cleaning, but I think (and he might confirm/deny) for someone that just wants to quickly/easily click and buy a full "kit" and be capable of cleaning and maintaining their car something like this from Zaino might be ideal.

http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2...de=ZKIT-2&Category_Code=Zaino&Product_Count=3

Zaino makes some good products, ive used them before, but im happier with the Uno/Poxy combo for my paint.

That kit is nice, but it is mainly for claying, and polishing paint. There is no wax/sealant provided. It also means doing it by hand, which is VERY time consuming.


I would say, if someone were to want to do a quick clean, light polish, and protect, to get a claybar kit, such as the meguiars or mothers, meguiars ultimate polish or ultimate compound, and either meguiars NXT 2.0 or the Meguiars #20 sealant. Everything there can be found at an auto parts store(probably not the #20 though, or it would be a special order product).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
and yes, i do spend a lot of time taking care of my car, but i like to make it look its best. I also do detailing on the side for friends/family, but that may be coming to an end with the new job im starting. 60 hours a week is going to cut into time for doing, anything really..
 

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Id recommend this kit, for someone looking for an all in one type deal, minus the fact that it comes with wax and not a sealant. the gold class wax was reformulated a little while ago and does contain polymers, but not as good as a full on sealant. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Comp...EZ8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330324499&sr=8-1
And this is why I said you'd be the better one to suggest things...hehe, good info! I wish there were local shops around that did a nice job such as you describe but from what I have seen they are likely to do far more damage than anything else so I do not go to them, had a friend that went to one and they dried the car, dropped the cloth, picked it up and continued...imagine the crazy scratches on that hood!!!
 

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I use play-doh to clay bar my car. It doesn't work well at all. It does smell pretty good and if the situation calls, I can eat it since it's non-toxic.


Your car is super shiny. I have pretty much no idea what I am doing when it comes to detailing cars. I could read about it, but I'm pretty lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And this is why I said you'd be the better one to suggest things...hehe, good info! I wish there were local shops around that did a nice job such as you describe but from what I have seen they are likely to do far more damage than anything else so I do not go to them, had a friend that went to one and they dried the car, dropped the cloth, picked it up and continued...imagine the crazy scratches on that hood!!!
Pretty much all detail shops around here do crap work. I interviewed at one a while back, and their shop was a mess, didnt use any decent products, and had no machinery for cleaning interiors. I wasnt impressed.

I use play-doh to clay bar my car. It doesn't work well at all. It does smell pretty good and if the situation calls, I can eat it since it's non-toxic.


Your car is super shiny. I have pretty much no idea what I am doing when it comes to detailing cars. I could read about it, but I'm pretty lazy.
Lol, it is definitely a lot of work, thats for sure
 
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