Now that I have the procedure down pat I can do it fairly quickly, & doing a quick check just now I forgot to insert the key, & it worked! I had just opened the driver's door, & the display was still lit by the time I got the reading I was looking for, so apparently there's a window of opportunity with enough systems running for a half a minute or so after opening, without requiring turning the key on.

It wouldn't have worked if I hadn't also forgotten to turn the Konnwei off, & contrary to it's specs, it does NOT turn itself off due to inactivity. I left it all weekend once & on Monday it was still on! However it seems to use little power, since my 6-year old 12V still got it started fine then & ever since.

 

...

It wouldn't have worked if I hadn't also forgotten to turn the Konnwei off, & contrary to it's specs, it does NOT turn itself off due to inactivity. I left it all weekend once & on Monday it was still on! However it seems to use little power, since my 6-year old 12V still got it started fine then & ever since.

I had my battery drained on my smart fortwo MHD by the Konnwei (wi-fi) when the car was not used for a ~week. The smart has a beefy 60Ah battery for the start-stop.

 

Thanks for reminding me to add that I have the Konnwei with bluetooth, & THAT part of it might have shut itself down due to inactivity or when my phone got out of range or I turned ITS bluetooth off to save batt. Regardless, best to turn off OBD tool when done.

 

I accidentally discovered that you get "awake but off" 12V voltage on an OBD scan IF you do it without the key or charger, right after opening the driver's door. If you aren't quite quick enough, just close & open the door again, & again hit "READ SYSTEM STATUS". That function is active (red color instead of grey) if it didn't finish reading the first time. About 2 pages down on my phone screen AlfaOBD shows "System (12) Volts: xx.xx V"

Mine reads:
12.08V after resting overnight (a sign it's ready to die but I've been carrying a little Li-ion jumpstarter for years now)
12.40 right after shut-down (should be at least 12.5-12.6 but mine is over 6.5 years old)
14.06 with the key on or "started" (because that charges it off the HV batt)
14.30 when the car is on charge (because that also charges the 12V)



Unnecessary details:
OBD will give readings during any ONE of these options:

• The car is charging.
• The key is "on".
• The motor has been "started" ("ready" displayed).
• The driver's door has recently been opened.

The first 3 all cause the starter battery to charge, so it can only measure the 14.xxV charging voltage, not the 12.xxV battery voltage.
The 4th option (WITHOUT any of the first 3) doesn't charge the 12V, giving battery voltage.

 

Here's an ordered sequence of screenshots showing how to connect to battery pack data, after which just SWIPE LEFT & touch "READ SYSTEM STATUS". Sometimes you have to cycle the transmitter &/or the app off/on (or unplug/plug if there's no switch):

 

Thanks for this! Sure helps out for those on the first go around with it.
Just tried mine again and it keeps asking for the Konnwei PIN. My Konnwei didn't come with instructions or a PIN. Has it ever done this for you?

 

Yes. If it ever asks for a password it's 1234 (from post #1 above)

 

Can you recommend a cheap Andriod device to read the scanner? I bought a Konnwei scanner but we are an Apple family. All Mac's - all the time. Thanks.

 

Thanks again, I should have read the first post in greater detail. Cheers

 

Mine shows 12.84v after left over night (checking via multimeter with hood unlatched) I would surmise it’s still healthy? (Not charging or doors ever opened)

 

Someone said Amazon has $15 Androids that work. Also ask your friends. If they're anything like me & my Apple friends, we often don't get round to donating our old ones, or we keep at least one as a backup in case of breakage/loss, so we wouldn't mind lending until needed (knowing it's always readily avail. in your glovebox).

 

Thanx

 

It took a while to get this going. Is this what I want to see? "SOH"?

 

It took a while to get this going. Is this what I want to see? "SOH"?

I see your have a SOH-C of 90%. Just taking a guess here, but is your mileage about 25K miles?

 

If you are looking for state of health values, then yes that is what you want to see. Your values look pretty typical. How accurate they are is up for debate, but those values look reasonable to me.

 

Right, although I don't see any room for debate since it seems quite clear to me that none of those numbers can be trusted, even after a sub-zero% gauge-reset.

The next thing to try might be...: Estimating 500e Battery Health

 

Good guess Abe, but just fyi, here are a few examples of user's SOH-C reports:

Only 69.02% after just 16,497 mi.
90% at 11,338mi, & another at 31,432mi.
99.61 at 39,330

This is why I write stuff like above "quite clearly untrustworthy data".

The good news is that our batteries' real-world range-retention seems great, regardless of those possibly-misleading numbers.

 

Bumping this thread up for a little on-topic help.

I've got the Konnwei BT adapter, and it connects fine to my 2017 E. I use an old Nook rooted with Android, and it connects quickly and I can log into some modules.
I saw there were modules that I needed an adapter for - "USE YELLOW ADAPTER" - so I bought the 4 pack of adapters.
These will not connect. I traced the pins with a continuity meter to see if they matched what was expected, and all 4 different connectors came up wired as correct.

I even loaded the demo up on my windows laptop and came up with the same issue.

Anybody have any thoughts on why I'd be able to connect plugging directly to the OBD2 port, but no connection while using the yellow adapter?

 

Have you resolved this issue?

I have similar problem using Konnwei KW902 with yellow adapter. I have no issue connecting to power modules and clear the faults. However anything that requires yellow adapter I'm not able to connect to..

Thanks for the help.

 

I tried to experiment with RBS module and AlfaOBD. Once I connect there, in the dash the three amigos error pops up: ABS, ESC and RBS, which certainly looks scary.

However after turning off the key and back on again, it seems disappear.

Also: does anybody know why we need to use the "Var. 2" for BPC module?

 

Pretty sure that was originally from ironhydroxide. I looked at Var.1 once & didn't SEE any difference.

 

Quick question. I tried to do B) Enable the contactors with the free AlfaOBD "demo" Android app from Google Play Store, with the Free Demo version of the software. But when I got to the 2nd or 3rd last step it indiated I'd need to pay $50 for the full version. Just wondering if I'm missing something. I did note the current app included a choice for the 500E New 2020+, so maybe they've changed things up.

My app version is 2.2.8.0

 

THANK YOU for the report! My notes show that a month or 2 ago someone reported the demo version enabled the contactors, but just a day or 2 ago @EERock reported the demo version definitely didn't work, but the $50 version did.

 

@JayBond : Quick question. Did your contactors stop "clunking" closed after public or aftermarket home charging?

 

I picked up a 2015 500E at an insurance auction recently. It came home on a trailer and has never charged. I tried charging the 12V battery, but no go, so I replaced it. I've never tried it on a public charger. The home charger green lights come on, but then I get a message on the binnacle about the car not charging. I thought I heard some clunking in the first few days, but now there is no clunking sound when dealing with the charging port.

 

If U69 isn't done, the worn-out 12V likely ruined the HV drive battery. Check the vin at mopar.com (click menu at the upper right, then recalls at the bottom of the "my vehicle" column at the left).

Since you got OBD to connect, try to check the min/max cell voltages (click to enlarge):

Then scroll down to see this:

If min voltage is over 2700mV then run through the list at HOW TO FIX A "DEAD" 500E that won't start...

Even if the 12V is new doesn't mean it hasn't been drained, so check the voltage at the terminals.

Then if there's no clunk even with good voltage when you open the left door, you'll need the $50 AlfaOBD app to try to enable the contactors.

 

Update based on newer collective knowledge.

Please learn from my wasteful purchase of a cheap Bluetooth dongle, then an expensive one, before I learned this:

Bluetooth is ill-advised for any "active diagnostics", which can be suddenly needed without warning (click here & check item 4), so I very strongly recommend spending the extra ~$27 on an OBDLink.com SX cable, including 10% off by signing up to the free newsletter. More details if you check the above link's double-asterisk (**) footnote.

Click to enlarge:

Make sure to have the key off, then turn it only one click to "mar", before connecting OBD, because even a split-second twist to "avv" can make the car at least "think" the "engine" is on, which prevents some fault codes from clearing.

Make sure the app is set for USB:

With the key off & the car charging, OBD will connect & read system status, but it won't clear faults:

Steps 1 through 3 only need to be done the very first time, & step 4 only needs to be redone if you're checking modules besides the OBCM, BPCM & EVCM (which you should - especially the PIM in the "Engine" section).

For a complete list of modules, click here & scroll down column B.