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Thank you for the helpful replies! I went back in with the ELM 327 obd reader and got the following message shown below. I’m not sure if that is because the car doesn’t like the ELM 327? It gave me the same message the first time I used it too. I’m going to buy the knowei and see if that is the issue?
Font Event Electric blue Rectangle Signage
 

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I now see that the Konwei kw902 is called the Konwei kw902 elm 327. I bought a Elm 327, not the Konwei unit. Looks like it’s 10 days delivery time, even on Amazon. Anyone want to mail one to Boulder? Thank you!
 

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got the following message shown... I bought a Elm 327, not the Konwei
That may be why the contactor enable function failed for you. However...:

  • Leave your humidity sensor unplugged.
  • Make sure there's at least 11.6V on OBD or at the battery clamps, not just the posts (the connection may be bad).
  • Check the min/max status as shown at the bottom of post #20 to see if you have any dead cells preventing function.
  • The Konnwei KW902 elm 327 has done everything I've needed so far, & other users report that it has enabled their disabled contactors. However others have had it fail to enable them. That may be the car's fault, not the Konnwei, but it does always truncate the data logs, & at least 2 or 3 users have reported it won't work with the "yellow adapter" required to read some of the 500e modules like the Body Computer. The unit recommended by AlfaOBD themselves, & used successfully by at least one forum member is the "OBDLink MX+" It's about $100 more, but that's only like a couple tanks of gas.

If you do decide on the Konnwei, for a few bucks more, at time of writing you can get it by the end of the week here: (click here)
 

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OH! After the sensor disconnect & the 12V check, maybe see if you can get it to show whether or not your contactors are disabled Maybe it shows like your pic in post #19 because they're already enabled....

This shows about 4 pages down on my phone (I added the red outline). Click to enlarge:
Font Screenshot Number Parallel Terrestrial plant

That's after connecting like this:
A) Product Rectangle Font Screenshot Line

B) Font Slope Screenshot Parallel Rectangle
 

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Well, I was able to pull a lot of information from different control units except Battery Pack Control Module Var. 1, 2, and 3. It seems that the OBD reader could not establish a connection with these control modules. When trying to enable/disable HV battery contactors, I got the message: "Failed. The ECU has detected that the request contains parameter(s) with value(s) outside allowable range."

The logs from AlfaOBD are long, mainly because they repeat. I'm going to attach them here if anyone dares have a look. The information that stuck out the most to me were mainly from the EVCU and OBCM. I did check to make sure that the plug under the back seat was connected and it was.

From the EVCM (Electric Vehicle Control Unit).
Contactor Status: Not defined
Battery Pack Voltage: 0 V
Battery Pack Current: 0.00 A
High Voltage Battery State of Charge: 50.20 %
HV Battery Average Cell Voltage: 3.71 V
HV Battery Voltage: 0 V
HV Battery Cell Balancing Status: Not Balancing
HV Batt Ready for Charge: not ready

From the OBCM (On-Board Charging Module)
Generic Fail Sts: At Least One DTC set on Sys Mem
Charge Fail Statue: Fault Detected
OBC Control Method: Current
Close Charge Contractor: Open
Charge Contractor State: Open
EVCU Enable Charge Command: Disabled
 

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I'm sorry, but for NINE YEARS, without even realizing it, owners have been making an extremely easy mistake with the ridiculously over-engineered plug under the back seat, which makes the car fail.

Then a few weeks ago one of them posted that they were pretty sure they did NOT make the mistake.

Then they were brave enough to admit they DID make the easy mistake, & posted how to avoid it by pushing HARD on the white part, to get the black part to go perpendicular before insertion.

So it will likely take me a while before I just immediately believe people who say "the plug under the back seat was connected", unless they post a pic like this one from @jedwards1654 :
Hand Gesture Finger Material property Thumb
 

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After that, please confirm "yes" or "no":
  • Found the humidity sensor & left it unplugged
  • Heard the contactors clunk
 

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You said it's been dead since before you got it, so the prior owner may have pulled the HV fuse, & from a pic, it looks the same as if it was inserted wrong, since even in that case it goes in almost all the way. The pic we need for proof is yours removed, just before insertion, looking like the far-right pic of the instruction sequence*.

Yes, as long as you can follow the instructions it's okay to undo the plug, even with the 12V connected, IF the car is "asleep", for which the instructions say wait 3 minutes with the key out & without opening or closing either door or hatch. Since you need to get in & out to do it, I say leave the left door open. Official instructions say leave everything open, I suppose just in case the mechanic forgot a tool in the hatch, & accidentally opens it.

I may have been overly critical of the design: I realized that it might be a safety requirement that any idiot can yank it out in an emergency, but you have to be smart enough to check that it's safe before reconnecting, so the mechanism is essentially an IQ check puzzle. Also a strength test, since even a very smart mischievous kid wouldn't be strong enough to push the very stiff white part:

* Click to enlarge, or see below: Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font

Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font
 

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Okay, I’ve included a picture of the plug in the perpendicular position before reconnecting. I still cannot connect to the module in order to enable the contractors.

I have disconnected the humidity sensor.
I don’t hear any clunk.

I plugged the car in and the battery charge went from 47% down to 15% which was new. It’s not charging. I’m getting the feeling that it may be time to drop the battery in order to revive this battery pack. Is there a way to force the contactors to close? Is there another way to charge this battery without removal? Thank you!

Automotive design Gas Bumper Personal protective equipment Auto part

Watch Speedometer Motor vehicle Automotive design Gauge
 

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Thanks for the photographic evidence...:

..perpendicular position before reconnecting. I still cannot connect to the module in order to enable the contractors.
I have disconnected the humidity sensor.
I don’t hear any clunk.
The only other thing I can think of right now is to make sure you currently have 11.6V or more at the starter battery terminal wires (in case there's a bad connection). Or check the EVCU scan on AlfaOBD (your log for that above shows only 11.92 at that time).

Is there a way to force the contactors to close? Is there another way to charge this battery without removal?
I'm pretty sure there's no other way to charge. There's a contactor test in AlfaOBD that forces them closed, but only momentarily to check that they function.
 

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FOUND IT ! ...:

 

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@Electric Tire Shredder Thanks again for your help! It's good to know people have been successful resurrecting these cars from the dead. I got a reply back from The Evolving World on YouTube when asking about the process and this is what they said when referring to this YouTube video.

The contactors (essentially HV relays) that are shown at 10:40 would need to be activated by a 12v source. You can verify by doing a voltage check at the HV connectors on the pack or even the 6.6 kW charger circuit next to it as they join together (it will be open, no voltage). The pack may still be good if it has not been fully discharged for a lengthy period of time.

Most likely expect to drop the pack and open it up. The contactors or other related parts of the system in the same area are most likely the culprit. At that point, you should be able to bypass all of that, take a voltage reading, and hook up your 400v charger to charge it up, if needed. You should be able pinpoint the problem and fix it. Then reinstall. Please be extremely careful, 400v can kill you. Best of luck!
 

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That teardown vid seems to be full of great info, but I noticed that the narrator misidentified the now-infamous humidity sensor.

Speaking of errors, it appears that on this thread I neglected to mention the technician training manual:

It shows that the BPCM is inside the HV pack, & I believe it also shows that the BPCM prevents the contactors from staying closed if any cell is outside of its parameters, such as below its minimum voltage level, which post #19 above indicated.

It seems like the @gillisk HV was allowed to go so low that the BPCM won't allow the contactors to stay closed, or the contactors failed (or more likely got the deactivation glitch) so the car hasn't been able to charge & the HV was allowed to go so low that the contactors won't stay closed.

In either case, the pack would need to be dropped, to charge the cells individually as shown in the link in post #35.
 

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...drop the pack and open it up. The contactors or other related parts of the system in the same area are most likely the culprit. At that point, you should be able to bypass all of that, take a voltage reading, and hook up your 400v charger to charge it up, if needed.
Hopefully a battery expert will chime in here, because I don't think it's advisable to use the car's 400V charger*, if any cell's voltage is so low that the BPCM is preventing 400V charging. I believe that is why people resurrect them by charging the cells individually, as shown in post #35.

* Click to enlarge:
Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Vehicle registration plate Tire
 
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