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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

The rear hatch on my Fiat 500 sport (2015)stopped working. Initially I suspected that the liftgate handle was broken as the button on the handle was very loose and didn't click down properly to open the hatch. I took the entire back interior panel apart, removed the handle and readjusted the loose button. The hatch is still not working.

Then I tested to see if it's a wiring issue, however the underlights on the handle turn on when it is plugged in so I'm assuming the wiring is fine.

When I click my keys to unlock the hatch, I realized I do not hear the internal click on my car of the lock actuator activating, so now I suspect that it is in fact the lock actuator that needs replacement. I have tried all the combinations of how to click the buttons (clicking unlock door once and twice etc.).

I would appreciate any tips or opinions about this issue as I do not want to order the wrong part. My mechanic was unable to determine the problem and suggested that it could be a signal issue, but the lights blink every time I click the unlock hatch button. So.... signal is theoretically fine. Don't want to go to the dealership before I've exhausted all the options as I can't afford the $$$$.

Currently I am stuck opening the hatch from inside the car by crawling into the backseat and inserting a screwdriver into the lock actuator to manually pull down the lever inside and push the hatch upwards.
 

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Hello all,

The rear hatch on my Fiat 500 sport (2015)stopped working. Initially I suspected that the liftgate handle was broken as the button on the handle was very loose and didn't click down properly to open the hatch. I took the entire back interior panel apart, removed the handle and readjusted the loose button. The hatch is still not working.

Then I tested to see if it's a wiring issue, however the underlights on the handle turn on when it is plugged in so I'm assuming the wiring is fine.

When I click my keys to unlock the hatch, I realized I do not hear the internal click on my car of the lock actuator activating, so now I suspect that it is in fact the lock actuator that needs replacement. I have tried all the combinations of how to click the buttons (clicking unlock door once and twice etc.).

I would appreciate any tips or opinions about this issue as I do not want to order the wrong part. My mechanic was unable to determine the problem and suggested that it could be a signal issue, but the lights blink every time I click the unlock hatch button. So.... signal is theoretically fine. Don't want to go to the dealership before I've exhausted all the options as I can't afford the $$$$.

Currently I am stuck opening the hatch from inside the car by crawling into the backseat and inserting a screwdriver into the lock actuator to manually pull down the lever inside and push the hatch upwards.
Had the same problem. But went to the dealer which changed the latch. I could have dine it myself. But have a 6years/50K warranty and cost me nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have removed the entire liftgate to try to see if something inside came loose. No luck, everything seems fine and my handle doesn't have a small spring that can be readjusted like in all the YouTube videos I've seen. All the wires on the hatch also seem to be fine, no corrosion or damage. Still don't hear the "pop" sound inside the car when I click the hatch open button on my key fob.
108034
 

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Hello all,

The rear hatch on my Fiat 500 sport (2015)stopped working. Initially I suspected that the liftgate handle was broken as the button on the handle was very loose and didn't click down properly to open the hatch. I took the entire back interior panel apart, removed the handle and readjusted the loose button. The hatch is still not working.

Then I tested to see if it's a wiring issue, however the underlights on the handle turn on when it is plugged in so I'm assuming the wiring is fine.

When I click my keys to unlock the hatch, I realized I do not hear the internal click on my car of the lock actuator activating, so now I suspect that it is in fact the lock actuator that needs replacement. I have tried all the combinations of how to click the buttons (clicking unlock door once and twice etc.).

I would appreciate any tips or opinions about this issue as I do not want to order the wrong part. My mechanic was unable to determine the problem and suggested that it could be a signal issue, but the lights blink every time I click the unlock hatch button. So.... signal is theoretically fine. Don't want to go to the dealership before I've exhausted all the options as I can't afford the $$$$.

Currently I am stuck opening the hatch from inside the car by crawling into the backseat and inserting a screwdriver into the lock actuator to manually pull down the lever inside and push the hatch upwards.
The tear hatch wire has a broken wire
 

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I have removed the entire liftgate to try to see if something inside came loose. No luck, everything seems fine and my handle doesn't have a small spring that can be readjusted like in all the YouTube videos I've seen. All the wires on the hatch also seem to be fine, no corrosion or damage. Still don't hear the "pop" sound inside the car when I click the hatch open button on my key fob.
If you are still here... the key fob hatch release doesn't make a clicking sound, at least on my '18. It simply gives you 30 seconds to open the hatch using the hatch handle. You could try unlocking both front doors and see if the hatch will open. My fob sometimes doesn't work when I'm at the back of the car.

On some cars, the fob will pop the trunk or hatch, but the Fiat doesn't work that way.
 

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I have a 2012 Fiat 500 Sport and have now encountered this problem twice. The first time it happened was in 2018. I unlocked my car and went to open the hatch and I was unable to. I took it to a studio and paid a healthy sum (~$500) to have it fixed. Now, less than 2 years later, I am facing the same problem again. I took a look at the job that the dealer did on the hatch wiring a couple of weeks ago for another issue (power draw caused by arcing in the hatch wiring) and was not at all impressed with the job the dealer did. There was loose electrical tape everywhere, and the wires were just shoved into the hole in the hatch--bending them in very awkward positions and making cracking of the insulation that much more likely.

Given the above experience with the studio, I would recommend that you take a look at the hatch wiring at the point where it transitions from the body to the hatch (rubber cover at the top left of the hatch). Solder any wires that are broken, and tightly cover everything with electrical tape. Thank you for providing a description of how you got the hatch open. I will try to do that and look at my hatch wiring.
 

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I have the same problem now. Garage made tests and my wiring is fine. I have power in my tailgate. He said my button is out of order, and my fob stop to work also. He said that it come from the body control unit in the front, where are the fuses under the dash. So, I am looking for a jober tailgate handle. Will not fix the control unit... But at least, if I can open it directly, will be fine. Any body knows where to get it jober?
 

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Just wanted to share I had this issue when I first got mine. Turns out because this is the Cabrio, I had to do the little reset procedure to fix the position sensors for the roof. If yours is a Cabrio, look that up and do that procedure.
 

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Thanks, mine is not a Cabrio. I just fixed it changing the hole part from dealer, not BO anymore. I tried to fix it in opening it and change the switch for a limit switch, but not lucky. So decided to change having also 1 of 2 licsence plate lights totally burned with yhe plug. My latch works now, didn't fixed the body control module, my FOB still doens't work.
 

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Wanted to add one more thing to this discussion. I had a similar issue as before where the hatch wouldn't open, but the locking and unlocking still worked. The hatch wiring all looked fine, so I traced it down to the motor attached to the latch. Of the 3 pins in the automotive connector, one of them had hardly any resistance on it, so since the hatch was still getting power I suspected that perhaps that motor unit had failed. I ordered a Mopar latch assembly from RockAuto and it bolted right in. Works good as new now. I don't know if this is a part that fails regularly, or if I had other electrical issues that fried it, but I wanted to add it here as another cause of this symptom. Attached are pictures of the latch assembly.
108932
108933
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wanted to add one more thing to this discussion. I had a similar issue as before where the hatch wouldn't open, but the locking and unlocking still worked. The hatch wiring all looked fine, so I traced it down to the motor attached to the latch. Of the 3 pins in the automotive connector, one of them had hardly any resistance on it, so since the hatch was still getting power I suspected that perhaps that motor unit had failed. I ordered a Mopar latch assembly from RockAuto and it bolted right in. Works good as new now. I don't know if this is a part that fails regularly, or if I had other electrical issues that fried it, but I wanted to add it here as another cause of this symptom. Attached are pictures of the latch assembly. View attachment 108932 View attachment 108933
Yes this is exactly what I think my problem is. I still haven't fixed my hatch because my mechanic quoted a steep price to replace the handle (which at this point I can do myself since I've already done 75% of the work). I'm not going to buy a new liftgate handle if it's most likely the latch assembly at fault.

In relation to your photos, where do I locate these pins? Do I have to detach the latch assembly from the car to find these pins?

Thanks for the input too, I've all but given up on fixing the trunk due to the cost and the fact that I still am not 100% exactly sure which component is broken.
 
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