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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I changed the bulb but it made no difference. It started yesterday, my front right turn signal stopped working and I'm getting the fast clicking on the dash. When I was driving around, it did at one point start working again, but about 90% of the time it doesn't function. It also won't flash when I lock and unlock the car.

Any thoughts?

edit: I should also mention, the DRL functions normally. It turns off when I hit the indicator switch but the indicator light doesn't turn on. Aren't the turn signal and the DRL powered through the same line?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I used a voltmeter and checked the current going to the turn signal lights on both side. With the 4 ways on, both sides measured the same at the bulb socket. So there is the correct power going to the dead side, but the 3 different new bulbs I've tried won't light. So does this mean the socket the bulb is sitting in is bad and it just decided today that it wasn't going to make contact anymore?

I should mention my car is a February 2011 build.
 

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Check your ground circuit from the affected light socket. Did you ground the vom probe to the ground spade in the socket, or ground it elsewhere?
 

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Are you checking the voltage, at the socket? Is there power there?

Is it the right bulb?

Replacement Bulb Number: WY21W
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked the voltage at the socket. There doesn't appear to be any corrosion. I dont have much experience with anything electrical. I didn't get the new bulb from the dealership, it's a 992/7440. Every autoparts store I went to said that was the factory bulb. They look identical. The thing is the original bulb wasn't burnt out or anything, it looked fine. But it started working on and off, then nothing at all.
 

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If you are getting correct voltage at the socket, and the socket itself is not damaged, and the bulb is good, then it should light up as normal. What was your voltage reading? And it should be the same when the blinker is turned on or flasher is turned on. You said that it started to work on and off then totally not working, that sounds like a bad ground connection, or loose wire connection somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If you are getting correct voltage at the socket, and the socket itself is not damaged, and the bulb is good, then it should light up as normal. What was your voltage reading? And it should be the same when the blinker is turned on or flasher is turned on. You said that it started to work on and off then totally not working, that sounds like a bad ground connection, or loose wire connection somewhere.
I only measured the voltage with the 4 ways on. Both sides peaked around 10-11 at first, then were showing anywhere from 3 to 7 with each flash. My hands are a bit shaky so it's hard to keep contact for an extended period of time. Either way, the readings were consistent on both sides. I'm going to look at it again later, try a few things. Maybe the socket warped over time and isn't making contact with the bulb anymore. Since the DRLs work without an issue and they share the same ground as the turn indicator light, could that mean that if there is a ground problem, it's within the lights assembly itself?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any benefit to using that over a multimeter? This is the unit I've been using.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is this the appropriate way to test for ground? I'm assuming the negative lead for the multimeter is grounded on the frame.







In the illustration above, assume the red wire is the power lead for the brake lights and that the black wire is the ground for the circuit. When we depress the brake, the red wire shows 12 volts, because current is flowing. If it does not, a problem exists with this circuit.
With the brakes still applied, less than 0.1 volts should show on the black wire, when checked to the body ground. More voltage shows high resistance in the ground circuit. Full system voltage between the black wire and system ground suggest missing or broken ground. We can also use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the black lead and body ground.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/243
 

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Hmmmmm......

Sounds like a bad connection between the socket and the bulb?

Except it works when the four way blinkers are on?

Do I have that right?

Also, when checking for a good ground, I would use a resistance measurement (zero Ohms) not a voltage measurement.

TEdolph
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The blinker on the right doesn't work at all, even with the 4 ways. But there is a current going to it.

I came down with the flu this week so I haven't had a chance to figure out what's going on.
 

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Thinking about this a friend had the same issue, new bulb and blinker did not work. He forced the bulb in the wrong way, the bulb had two pins at different heights from the base anyway once it was turned around the bulb worked.

Gerhard
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm still having no luck with this. With the bulb removed, the power lead is measuring 12v, when the bulb is in I don't get any sort of reading anywhere.
 

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The socket is reading at proper 12v, then I'm with you, the socket itself is not making a contact with the bulb. How could tha happen, I don't know. Would you sacrifice a bulb? You can solder the wires to the bulb, and stick the wire to the appropriate terminals of the socket. If the bulb works, and I'm pretty sure it will, then the terminal(s) became loose. Sounds like you need to replace the socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My parts connection ordered me a new socket. Apparently you can just buy the socket individually, though I'll probably have to cut and splice it in. If it still doesn't work after that, then I'll order a new assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Picking up the new socket today. Fingers crossed that this was the problem. I'll report back.
 
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