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Discussion Starter #22
I have been monitoring my own 2013 lately.
Two days ago I had extra errands to run, and got home with 3% battery left. I decided that would be the perfect time to check on the Lifetime number of SOH-C adjustments. I pulled the adjustments then, was 796 with "last adjust" being 0.00Ahr.
I then ran the heater until the dash showed 0% (in alfaOBD it showed 4.4Ahr left) and charged fully that night.
I didn't have time to pull the data yesterday, but pulled it today (one charge cycle from 33% to 100% after the full discharge/recharge) and the lifetime SOH-C adjustments now show 800, and last adjust shows 0.00Ahr. SOH-C is the same as it was when I purchased the car

Below is a table of MY car. (2013 with 25365miles at first reading, 25567 at last reading)
Full AmpHSOHSOH-RSOH-CLifetime SOH-C adjustLast adjust Ahr
59.510099.2291.377770.00
59.510010091.377960.00
59.410099.6191.378000.00


Apparently somewhere between the full discharge, and last nights charge (only one charge between) it adjusted the SOH-C 4x, and the Full AmpH down by 0.1.
I really wish I had my raspberry pi logger setup, and was pulling this data pre and post every charge.
 

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great idea, just uploaded mine. interesting to learn the battery in mine has spent less than 3 days below 20%.
 

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I am using the OBDlinkMX (suggested by AlfaOBD, figured I have a lot of uses just beyond this, so i'll splurge on the $80 vs the $15 cheapos)

I haven't had anyone complain yet when I ask to plug in (on personal cars). On dealer cars I usually plug in on the test drive and scan them. Explaining to the salesman about batteries and how the battery SOH is more important than mileage or age usually allays their fears, the only car that the salesman was "worried" was the brand new '18 I scanned. Though the salesman didn't know it wasn't hybrid....... (he suggested I take it home, and when I said I didn't have level2 charging at home he mentioned "you can just put gas in it, right?") I'm still confused on that one.
Thanks for the details on the device, @Ironhydroxide ! I may invest in one of those to get the stats, as this is the aspect of the car I'm most curious about.

So far, I'm trying to use the charge timer to keep charging during sunlight hours (to mostly charge from solar) and only using the factory EVSE with a 15A circuit to keep the draw around 1.4kW so as not to draw so much power I would be over the amount available from solar or Powerwall, so that we still have enough to run the house for the night. I'm mostly getting enough energy by charging just past sunset (not charging all night), then picking up in the morning after the sun comes up to try to get to 80-85%, so that the battery is closer to a "conditioned" state for the drive to work.

All of this will fall apart as we get closer to winter, but I still plan to use the scheduling trick to charge some after I get home, then charge more the next morning until I leave to pre-condition the battery before driving.

I'm definitely bummed that U-Connect isn't available after the first 3 years, but I'm not quite ready to invest in the my500e Telematics package to make the process of scheduling & monitoring charging and preparing the car easier.
 

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Ad my Car,
Expected to be better for a 2016. My opinion it's the hours on 100% charge that lowered the SOHC.
 

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Apparently the data is inaccurate unless you've recently done a few cycles from 100 to ZERO (by driving around the block, & then cranking the heater by the charger). I think SOHR might be the only exception to that.
 

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I have run mine down to 0% twice, on purpose just to see how far it would go on a charge. Drove at moderate speed, 45-50mph, on a 75F evening. Once I got within a couple percent of empty, I kept driving around the block until I got it to zero in front of my driveway. Left the key on for another 30 minutes with the headlights on and the vent blower motor on. 96 miles total range. 25K miles on the odometer.
Initial SOH numbers before fully exercising the battery:
HV Bat SOH: 100.00 %
HV Bat SOH-R: 99.61 %
HV Bat SOH-C: 99.61 %
Current SOH numbers after exercising the battery:
HV Bat SOH: 100.00 %
HV Bat SOH-R: 99.61 %
HV Bat SOH-C: 90.59 %
I am thinking that to get true SOH numbers the battery needs to be exercised from one extreme to the other in order for these numbers to be computed. (I have read that you need to do this to a cell phone battery to get its "true" percentage charge remaining calibrated.)

Comments?
 

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Thanks to Salty Peanuts & Kiesling, for motivating me to finally check the reported battery data.

The data appears to show that either our batteries are extremely resistant to severe (ab)use, or it's absolutely required to cycle to zero to get accurate SOH numbers, because some of the reporting cars with the most severe (ab)use readings still have very good-looking SOH numbers. For example:
  • 99.61% SOH-R on the car left the longest at the lowest SOC (zero-to-20%, it's also the longest below 30%)
  • 100% SOH on the car left the longest at the highest SOC (80-100%)
  • 100% SOH & 99.61% SOH-R on 2 of the 3 cars with the most minutes of high current (regen & acceleration)
  • 100% SOH & 99.61% SOH-R on the car left the longest at very high temperature (40-50C, it's also the longest at 30-40C)
  • Highest Full AmpH Capacity readings (66.7 to 64.9) on:
1) A car with a long time at the lowest SOC, & at 20-30%
2) Two cars with long times at 80-100% SOC
3) A car with long times at high current (regen & accelleration)

There is absolutely no correlation between any reported SOH or AmpH Capacity & ANY of the other reported data. It should degrade at least a bit, but does not SHOW any trend of degradation with age, mileage, time spent at low or high % SOC, or time spent at high current or temperature. This seems to indicate that cycling to zero is required to get accurate numbers.
 

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There are some interesting data points though, for example:

- The average reporting 500e spends 45% of its time at 80-100% SOC, 47% of its time basically stopped (current of -0.5 to 3), & 50% of its time at 20 to 30 degrees C.

- None of the batteries has been below -20C, or over 50C. Only 3 have spent a few minutes below -10C, & only 5 above 40C

- Even though mine's prior owner didn't even go 10k miles, but I added over 13k nearly never charging over 70%, nearly HALF my car's life has been at 80-100% SOC.

- My lead-foot (strong acceleration AND regen) is way worse than the next-lightest, but there are 4 drivers who are even more harsh, with an even higher portion of total time at the highest AND the 2nd highest currents, both braking AND accelerating.

- 5 gentle drivers never even go below -220 current, and 25 gentle drivers never go above 160 (only us 5 lead-foots go above 180)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Mileage vs AmpH
View attachment 107964

Very interesting: percentage of time between 80% and 100% battery vs AmpH
View attachment 107965

Thanks for these!!!
I'd guess the % of time is due to a new car being charged at time of "initialization" and then sitting at or near full until being sold.
the more the car is driven, the more the battery is stressed the less time at/above 80%.
 

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Yes, thanks RFVC!

Let's try to remember that from every detailed real-world driving report, it STILL appears our battery's life expectancies are fantastic.

However:

1) Mileage vs AmpH chart is missing at least a couple of trend-altering data points, most notably reports from 1/26/19 (59.9AmpH at 59k mi) & 3/1/19 (64.1 at 39k). It might be interesting to see a chart including those.

2) Time between 80% and 100% battery data on the source spreadsheet is inaccurate, with the average car reporting a 5 year old model year but a total time of less than 197 days between 0% & 100%. In other words, the times recorded do not accurately reflect the battery's history, so charting them could give a false impression.

But again, none of this seems to really matter, in practice.
 

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I'm trying to interpret the second graph, and I could be wrong, but I think that the values more towards the left indicate cars being driven more over time (hence being below 80% more frequently) and values toward the right could represent fairly brand-new vehicles or vehicles that have light usage with owners that tend to charge their vehicles to full.
 

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I'm trying to interpret the second graph
Your theory, & Ironhydroxide's seem reasonable, HOWEVER the graph you're both basing it on is based on incorrect data on the source spreadsheet.

For example:
  • Your own 2016 must be at least 2.75 years old, but it shows only 52 days of data (total of all recorded minutes between 0% & 100%*).
  • My own 2013 that I bought 3 years 11 months ago shows only 251 days.
& it's not even showing just the most recent 251 days. I know this because I almost never charge over 70, yet it shows it was above 80% during 49% of its data-recording period.

*also 52 days total time at all temperatures & currents
 

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I also noticed that when you add all the minutes together there aren't enough to vouch for the lifetime of the vehicle. I don't get why that is. Anyway, I have added my data; it seems I have the highest mileage reported so far. I have driven it for just over two years now and tend to be a gentle driver, usually following a lorry on the motorway.
 

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If you can't find a helpful friend with an android, you can usually get a free one by signing up to something like Boost or Metro for $30/mo. You could download the app, & probably then discontinue service, since you dont need the cell signal for the Bluetooth connection.

I may be able to confirm this in a few days when I switch back to my old (better) free Metro Android from my current newer (worse) Sprint Android.
 
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