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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here it is - the install of AAC halos on the 500.

I am waiting on a mod or admin to step in and let me know if I can offer installs for members without becoming a vendor.
If they say yes, I will at least return the favor by upping my donation level (I would donate either way - I believe in supporting the clubs I am a member of)
If they say no, I will have to wait and see if there is enough interest in the halos to justify the vendor fees (fair tho they may be)

Either way, this is a step by step for anyone that wants to attempt it themselves.
(at this point I only have up to the splitting of the lights since my halos arent in yet and I am having the buckets painted)

1: Remove the front fascia. Its really simple - there are 4 Allen head bolts across the top, 5 underneath and one on each side in the wheel well. Remove the 3 Phillips screws from in each wheel well.
Unplug the side marker lights and unplug the driving/ turn signal housings.
Once the fascia is unbolted the sides are held in with plastic clips. A sharp pull should unclip them. The front most one was a little winky, so use a plastic tool of some sort to unclip it.

2: Remove the headlights - there are 3 10mm bolts per light and a little "tit" that holds them in place once the bolts are removed.

3: Preheat the oven to 220 and set any racks to the bottom - you want the housing as close to the middle of the oven as possible.

4: put the lights in the oven one at a time and set a timer for 25 minutes.

5: now the "fun" begins. Take the housing out of the oven with gloves on and set it on a terry cloth or other soft surface - you are about to go medieval on them and dont want to scratch the lens.
Using a bladed screwdriver or similar, you will work the adhesive loose from the outer black plastic lip all the way around the housing. When the plastic begins to cool and stops easily bending back, stick the light back in the oven for another 20 min or so.
(Tip: When you take one light out, put the other in so that one is heating up as you are working the other - it will make the best use of your time)
After you get the outer part bent out you will take the screwdriver and work it under the lens to separate the adhesive from the lens. Be careful with this part - if you get too aggressive with the screwdriver you can go too deep and scratch the inside of the lens or break something you can see. Again, as the plastic cools put it back in the oven to heat back up.
Be careful here not to bend or damage the plastic lens.

I am not exaggerating here - it took me over 2 hours to split both housings.

Once the lens is separated, you will need to put the housing back into the oven one more time. Once its hot again, use pliers to bend the channel back into shape for when you reassemble the housings.

You will also need to scrape out as much of the grey adhesive as you can - this will not soften enough to reseal the light, so any left in could allow a leak when you reassemble them.

Here are some pics of the split housings and what it looks like.








more info to come as I put it all back together... hope you read all the way to the bottom before starting :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got the halos today.
Still dont have the buckets back from paint, so I cant finish the project, but I can give more info...

I was just going to edit my initial post with more info, but I can figure out how to edit a post.....

Here are the halos out of the box:


They come with an adhesive already on them. Its up to you whether you trust that adhesive or add a couple drops of epoxy just to be sure.

Attach the light to the projector part of the light and route the wires to the rear:


You will see a small square hole at the bottom corner - this is where you will run the wires through. There is a rubber plug on the back - remove it for now:



and then run the wires through the rubber plug and put it back on:



Here is what they look like turned on:


I should get my buckets back early next week and I will post the rest of the install at that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am painting the chrome buckets a satin black.

I will get the buckets back from paint Tuesday or Wednesday and will show what they look like then.
 

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Looks really good. Can't wait to see the finish product. Doesn't 3M make new sealer for the lens, and head lamp buckets?


Too bad you can't edit post after 10 min, like other forums.
 

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looks good. thank you for taking the time to post this DIY for us.. I might have to black out the housings. and do a lil custom coloring for the 500 inside of it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks really good. Can't wait to see the finish product. Doesn't 3M make new sealer for the lens, and head lamp buckets?
They do, but it is not the ideal sealer.

Good ol' GE Silicone II is the best stuff for resealing everything when you are ready to put it all back together. Simple, unfortunate fact: the LED's will fail again eventually and you will need to redo them. If you use silicone you can do it in less than 2 hours - if you use the 3M stuff you will have to really work to cut it back loose.
DO NOT USE DAP BRAND!! (it has a high moisture content and will fog the lenses from the inside)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok, so I am finally all done. The painter ended up getting behind and it took him a week longer to get everything back to me.

NOTE: In the photos above you will see that I have run the wires from the halos across the sides and behind out the vent hole. When I went to put them back together, I was VERY unhappy with the amount of wire you could still see. What I ended up doing is drilling a small hole in the projector and running the wires through that. The end result is a much better final result.

So... once you have mounted the halo ring (use epoxy - the adhesive on the rings is not strong enough) you can start the steps to reassemble the light.
You need to get as much of the old adhesive out as possible - the more you get out, the better the final result. I used a dremel and a small grinding bit - it makes short work of the glue but makes one heck of a mess.

Run a nice thick bead of the GE Silicone II all the way around the seal and put the lens back on. Use some clamps or place a weight on the housings to hold everything compressed while the adhesive dries (overnight is best).

Sorry I didnt get better pics of the final assembly - we are running behind in the shop and I needed to get this out and us on to the next project.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
it really isnt that much work... probably in the neighborhood of 5 hours start to finish with at least 2 of it just being splitting the stupid lights.

serious question...

is there a way I could offer these to members without becoming a full vendor? Not that I mind supporting the club, but since I am a local shop with very few products I can offer, I dont think the ROI would pass the accountants.
 

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it really isnt that much work... probably in the neighborhood of 5 hours start to finish with at least 2 of it just being splitting the stupid lights. serious question... is there a way I could offer these to members without becoming a full vendor? Not that I mind supporting the club, but since I am a local shop with very few products I can offer, I dont think the ROI would pass the accountants.
I cannot say for certain in relation to the vendor at this point, I do think that unless someone reports a problem with you when or if a member PMs you about doing business that is between the two of you and no problems should arise from such dealings.
 

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Very nice! When I get my Abarth I will be hitting you up!
 

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I was just going back over this thread and admiring your work and wondered do you have any full car frontal head shots so we can get the full effect?
 

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