[Hmbfiat]

My 500 is still at shop. Over a month now.
they have been communicating with fiat in Europe so diagnostics has been slow.

so far car will go to ready mode, all wiring has been check(per fiats suggestion) and now I am still stuck.

car goes to ready timers have been reset but I don’t know about them trying the oem charger on a 110 outlet. I have seen the dealers and they frequently have after market cords…

still stuck

 

[Hmbfiat]

Ironically dealer just emailed said the “obcm”
Was the problem and it would be 2950 to fix

Ouch. How do I know this IS the fix is the question??

 

[Hmbfiat]

1850 for the ibcm and1000 for labor and diagnosis….

better than what I have heard others say in this board I think.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I wonder what "timers have been reset" means. They reset to "active" sometimes, after disconnecting the 12V. That prevents charging except during whatever middle-of-the-night hours the user had set them for before the reboot.

In case that's too hard to explain, leaving the car on when you plug in will bypass the timers, so maybe you can get them to try that, AFTER REBOOTING THEIR CHARGER!

HOWEVER, it seems like there are some aftermarket chargers that just won't work properly with a 500e. There have been many reports of sudden failure to charge OR drive after using one, & even more reports of them failing to fully charge. EVERY ChargePoint charger where my friend used to work needed rebooting before they'd work.

At least 3 members of this very forum (including me) have reported errors fixed by simply plugging in the OEM cord. In my case the error was failure to charge from an aftermarket charger! (& I think one or both of the others were the same).

 

[Hmbfiat]

Timers are set to be active 23.5 hrs a day.
they have tried oem cord. Fiat Europe said
Obcm is expected to fail at some point over so many charge cycles. The car has a lots of charge cycles

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Thread moved back here:

On board charger

 

[Hmbfiat]

Car has 89k
Goal posts is what I’m getting.
oem charger has been used. Also timers are set to be on in other words car is chargeable 23.5 hours per day.

 

[cuijpertjes]

Timers are set to be active 23.5 hrs a day.
they have tried oem cord. Fiat Europe said
Obcm is expected to fail at some point over so many charge cycles. The car has a lots of charge cycles

Not sure about a failing OBCM. What does AlfaOBD say? (There's a section under Battery Mgmt if I recall correctly)
Seems more likely an external charger issue, or bad "ground" connection causing goalposts.
Can you tell bit more about the state before the issue and what changed (gradually/overnight.etc)

Also funny how they refer to "Fiat Europe" as for us (in Europe) there's no one ever answering the phone at Fiat in case of the 500e

 

[cuijpertjes]

Car has 89k
Goal posts is what I’m getting.
oem charger has been used. Also timers are set to be on in other words car is chargeable 23.5 hours per day.

really remove/delete the timers, just to rule stuff out.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Ya, or leave the key on. I'm trying to shift this thread back where it started, with prior details like loose, corroded charge-port connectors, & 3 weeks at the dealer before a post on this forum taught them how to get it to drive :

On board charger

 

[Junk e]

Can the Alfa OBD software close the contactors even if the factory scan tool cannot? I'm a Fiat tech that bought a 500e with a bad battery pack thinking it would be replaced under warranty. I have tried all the power up and power down procedures and have no contactor. I also cannot read any data in the BPCM under the data tab and cannot perform any of the "close contactor" , "reset weld check" , or "battery pack replacement" procedures.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I hope your "factory scan tool" didn't have a wire to it's own screen, since those have been reported to cause issues, although I think they might be fixed by the list of tricks in post #1 on page 1 of this thread.

Can the Alfa OBD software close the contactors even if the factory scan tool cannot?

Maybe. All it will cost you to find out is a $17 OBD dongle (or worst case add a $15 Amazon Android). Recently a dealership had a user's car for a month, & when they were informed about AlfaOBD fixing the contactor glitch they suddenly got it to drive.

But PLEASE let us know how it goes! (one way or the other).

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I never got around to asking how the users with the contactor disable glitch were able to connect to OBD battery management in order to activate the contactors.

My 2013 has always worked perfectly* & while doing so it won't connect to OBD battery management unless the contactors are closed, either by turning the key at least 1 click, plugging in to charge, or in the few seconds after opening the left door.

I can do that last one due to lots of practice, so if that's what's required for the glitch, extreme patience might be required to learn the process during multiple attempts that only last a few seconds each.

*except one time (in over 6 years) when it was infected by a 2010 public L2 that activated ABS if I braked below 7mph (but still only braked as soft as I wanted) until a 30-second 12V disconnect fixed it.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Deleted (inserted above during midnight edit).

 

[Junk e]

I hope your "factory scan tool" didn't have a wire to it's own screen, since those have been reported to cause issues, although I think they might be fixed by the list of tricks in post #1 on page 1 of this thread.



Maybe. All it will cost you to find out is a $17 OBD dongle (or worst case add a $15 Amazon Android). Recently a dealership had a user's car for a month, & when they were informed about AlfaOBD fixing the contactor glitch they suddenly got it to drive.

But PLEASE let us know how it goes! (one way or the other).

I tried the demo version and it wouldn't let me run any functions like contactor close so I bought the full version. It was not able to close the contactor. After a while of looking around in the BPCM it lost communication and wouldn't communicate anymore.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I tried the demo version and it wouldn't let me run any functions like contactor close so I bought the full version. It was not able to close the contactor. After a while of looking around in the BPCM it lost communication and wouldn't communicate anymore.

Mine does lose connection once in a while, & even more often it fails to connect at first until I turn off/on the dongle &/or the app.

1st pic: That always shows on mine after 15 minutes of free demo app use, at which time I just hit "ok" & start again, for another free 15 minutes.

2nd pic: Was there an active discharge fault? Either way, I hope you did a Service Disconnect as instructed by that page, before completing the procedure to reset the fault.

3rd pic: No graphs are needed for contactor reset. As shown in this thread's first post (item 2B there), even the demo version allows contactor reset. If you click on the pics there it shows the exact procedure.

4th pic: "MAR" means having the key turned one click, which is usually required to get OBD to connect (see post #33 above)

 

[Junk e]

I tried restarting the app, still have same message. I chose the wrong screen shot from my phone, I tried all the functions, contactor close, weld reset, bpcm replace, etc, all said they were complete, all did nothing. My pack is just dead inside.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

What "same message" do you still have?

It seems strange to me to "try all functions" without any indication of what's wrong. Are there any error codes? Was there an active discharge fault? Either way, did you do the Service Disconnect, as instructed by that active discharge page, before you apparently completed the procedure to reset the fault?

From your 1st pic, where it's connected to the BPCM, can you click the little battery icon at the bottom, just right of dead-center, between the key icon & "check engine", & then Read System Status?

If so, you can scroll down there to see the Max/Min Status & check the highest & lowest cell voltages. A big difference between the high & low indicates 1 or more weak cells.

If there is a big difference, then you'll likely want to scroll down to the individual cell voltages, to see which cell(s) are low.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Quick question. I tried to do B) Enable the contactors with the free AlfaOBD "demo" Android app from Google Play Store, with the Free Demo version of the software. But when I got to the 2nd or 3rd last step it indiated I'd need to pay $50 for the full version. Just wondering if I'm missing something. I did note the current app included a choice for the 500E New 2020+, so maybe they've changed things up.

My app version is 2.2.8.0

THANK YOU for the report! My notes show that a month or 2 ago someone reported the demo version enabled the contactors, but just a day or 2 ago @EERock reported the demo version definitely didn't work, but the $50 version did.

So I'll update the original post to show that.

 

[Commuter]

Probably a case of luck, but my 2016 500e still has the original battery. Voltage is ~12.5V and 14.3V when powered on.

My advice would be to replace it anyway. I regularly replace the 12v in my ICE vehicles every 5 years. I bought my 2014 in January and it also had the original battery. As luck would have it though the battery died instantly a few weeks back. Fortunately the car was in my driveway so there was no need to tow. Now I have a brand new battery, and a 12 booster pack in the car just in case!