[Electric Tire Shredder]

That's good advice, however I think a bit of clarification is in order, to avoid scaring people...:

...the battery died instantly...

I know what you mean. The built-in warning is often too late. So it does SEEM to "die instantly", unless you measure the voltage periodically, starting when it's 2 years old, even though it may actually last 5 years or more.

What really happens, even in a gas car, is over the years the starter battery very gradually wears down from 300% of what's needed to start the car, to 299%, 298%, 297% .....102%, 101% & then 100%, at which time the car still starts fine. Then the next time it's at 99% of what's needed, & therefore won't start the car.

 

[fraktclassiclimo]

I picked up a 2013 500e at auction, and replaced the 12v battery thinking it would be an easy fix. The car hasn't been registered since 2018 (4 years). I suspect the HV batteries drained beyond the point of no return. I bought the alfaobd $50 app and tried the contactor reset though the app, no luck. Followed the various sequences, no luck, and also disconnected the humidity sensor, again no luck.

I have the "service charging system" and yellow ! with car (meaning service charging system) light. The nail in the coffin is the occasional 47% charge status (vs. 0%) that pops up, which I believe means that the battery pack needs to be dropped, and the cells need to be charged individually.

Does anyone have any insight into that procedure, or any other steps I can do? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Unplugged "only" 7 months, even a fully-charged 500e would be at 0%. At that time it could be resurrected by plugging in, but if it sits much longer, the HV batteries would be too drained. (How to Completely Kill a 500e, click here)

I believe the remote-diagnosis experts in Europe perform the deep-discharge resurrection there, so they may be able to help, but if it has really been 4 years it may be a lost cause:
Expert Remote Diagnosis! (click here)

 

[vladifresh]

I also removed the test port cover to measure the HV on the propulsion batteries (I don’t get the clunk, so I’m not sure it’s accurate), but with drivers door open and ignition on or off, I’m only getting 5.6 V. I’m getting the dreaded 0% and 47% with door open display. If it clunked (contact enabled) and there was some life left in the batteries, I think I should be expecting 400V, so I think my batteries are toast. I will reach out to the shop in Poland, as someone mentioned.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Normally, opening the left door will connect the contactors for a few seconds, but they disconnect again unless you plug in or turn the key 1 or 2 clicks, so leaving the left door open doesn't really do anything except for allowing access without a door-opening wake-up signal.

I believe someone else with inactive contactors got 5.6 V at the Power Distribution Center*, & I think I read somewhere that it's a test signal so you know the circuit works & you're getting a connection.

*

 

[fraktclassiclimo]

Thanks for the info. I was trying to repeat the 4 variation sequence:

1) 12V disconnect, HV disconnect/reconnect, 12V reconnect.
2) HV disconnect, 12V disconnect, HV reconnect, 12V reconnect.
3) 12V disconnect, HV disconnect, 12V reconnect, HV reconnect.
4) HV disconnect, 12V disconnect/reconnect, HV reconnect.

Do I do that with the key in the ignition and drivers door open, or with key out of the ignition? In any case, I'm very optimistic because I'm getting the dreaded 47% on the battery display. I'm just running through the motions again before I decide to throw in the towel. The Alfaobd $50 version didn't reset the contactor, so I think the HV battery power is way low.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

The car should remain "ASLEEP" during any 12V or HV disconnect or reconnect!

That means key off for at least 3 minutes, & driver's door left open for 3 minutes, & NO door or hatch opened OR closed during any disconnect or reconnect.

I think you mean you're NOT very optimistic, but of course you want to try everything yourself, & then contact Poland.

 

[fraktclassiclimo]

Yes, that is correct. There is also a guy in Canada who did the individual cell charging after taking out the battery pack:

Fiat 500e – My Website

mandmwaddle.ca

It looks promising, but I was waiting to hear back from him on how the car performed afterwards..

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

It may look promising, depending on how long that one was left unplugged.

Starting with a FULL CHARGE of 4.1V/cell, it takes about:

• 7 months for it to drop to 3.1V/cell (Fiat's 0%)
• 3 more months (10 mo. total) for it to drop to the 2.7V Samsung min. spec. (still resurrectable)
• 5 more (15 total) for it to drop to the 2.0V Fiat "Emergency" level (likely resurrectable)
• 14 more (29) for it to drop to a fatal 0.00V (likely ruined)

It has been 48 months (4 years) since the car was last registered.

 

[eR4uL500e]

sigh... a few days ago, the turtle came on while I was at Starbucks. I had to tow it home. I got new 12v battery from Autozone. Then, I tried all the described steps from this forum. I got OBD2 adapter and install ALFAOBD app, trying all the steps described in this thread and else where. I'm at wit's end.... I've been trying to reset the faults, trying to enable the connection the HV.. nothing working so far. The three faults that I saw on ALFAOBD in the attached screenshots. I may just take this to the local FIAT (Champion FIAT DOwney) but they have so many bad reviews

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Turtle usually means it will still drive, just lower power/speed, & no heat or A/C (just fan-only). Towing indicates it won't drive though, but will it charge?

I see you have the full-paid Alfa OBD, which is required for the contactor glitch reset. Did it fail to clunk at first? Are you getting contactor clunks now, when you're supposed to?...:
-Clunk closed when opening left door, clunk open a few moments later.
-Clunk closed when the key is turned one click, clunk open a few moments after key off.
-Clunk closed a few moments after plugging in to charge, & clunk open a few moments after unplugging.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Are you sure the 12V is fully charged? What does OBD show for 12V status?

 

[eR4uL500e]

No clunk at all since that turtle and limited power warning.
I have not checked the new 12V Batt. Where do I see it in ALFAOBD?

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

So then it won't charge, right?

Click to enlarge OBD 12v status:

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

You tried this with the new 12v, right?...:

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Another big update edited into item 4 in post 1*, HUGE thanks to @jedwards1654 !

Some codes won't clear unless you happen to notice the tiny on-screen instructions for special ignition key positioning!

Now I wonder how many fixes failed due to this easily-missed detail.

*

HOW TO FIX A "DEAD" 500E that suddenly...

Updated 1/13/23 If you’re stranded, it sometimes works to turn off the headlights, wipers, & dome lights, leave the hatch closed & the left door latched only 1 click (to avoid “wake-up” signal), wait about 15 minutes for the starter battery to rest, & try again. If it starts but just won't...

www.fiat500owners.com

 

[e500]

Maybe. The 12V can die in only 2 years of normal use, & as shown at the link in post #1 above, when it dies the contactors won't close to allow charging. Also in that link: the onboard charge timer can also prevent charging.

I have a question here, if the 12 V dies and the contractors don't close does that mean the HV is now not connected to the 12V because of the contactors? If so how can an empty 12V drain the HV?

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

If software update U69 is incomplete, if the 12V goes LOW while it's parked unplugged, the contactors will close to recharge the 12V from the HV.

If the 12V goes low again, or won't recharge because it's worn out or 1 of its cells goes dead, or some other reason, the HV will keep trying to charge it, until the HV eventually dies. Then it can no longer charge the 12V, so it will eventually die too.

 

[Kiesling]

I have a question here, if the 12 V dies and the contractors don't close does that mean the HV is now not connected to the 12V because of the contactors? If so how can an empty 12V drain the HV?

An empty 12 volt battery can't, but a weak one without the U69 can.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Ya, & a weak 12V without the U69 can't go dead, until after the HV has emptied itself trying to keep the 12V full.