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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
That's good advice, however I think a bit of clarification is in order, to avoid scaring people...:

...the battery died instantly...
I know what you mean. The built-in warning is often too late. So it does SEEM to "die instantly", unless you measure the voltage periodically, starting when it's 2 years old, even though it may actually last 5 years or more.

What really happens, even in a gas car, is over the years the starter battery very gradually wears down from 300% of what's needed to start the car, to 299%, 298%, 297% .....102%, 101% & then 100%, at which time the car still starts fine. Then the next time it's at 99% of what's needed, & therefore won't start the car.
 

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I picked up a 2013 500e at auction, and replaced the 12v battery thinking it would be an easy fix. The car hasn't been registered since 2018 (4 years). I suspect the HV batteries drained beyond the point of no return. I bought the alfaobd $50 app and tried the contactor reset though the app, no luck. Followed the various sequences, no luck, and also disconnected the humidity sensor, again no luck.

I have the "service charging system" and yellow ! with car (meaning service charging system) light. The nail in the coffin is the occasional 47% charge status (vs. 0%) that pops up, which I believe means that the battery pack needs to be dropped, and the cells need to be charged individually.

Does anyone have any insight into that procedure, or any other steps I can do? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Unplugged "only" 7 months, even a fully-charged 500e would be at 0%. At that time it could be resurrected by plugging in, but if it sits much longer, the HV batteries would be too drained. (How to Completely Kill a 500e, click here)

I believe the remote-diagnosis experts in Europe perform the deep-discharge resurrection there, so they may be able to help, but if it has really been 4 years it may be a lost cause:
Expert Remote Diagnosis! (click here)
 

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I also removed the test port cover to measure the HV on the propulsion batteries (I don’t get the clunk, so I’m not sure it’s accurate), but with drivers door open and ignition on or off, I’m only getting 5.6 V. I’m getting the dreaded 0% and 47% with door open display. If it clunked (contact enabled) and there was some life left in the batteries, I think I should be expecting 400V, so I think my batteries are toast. I will reach out to the shop in Poland, as someone mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Normally, opening the left door will connect the contactors for a few seconds, but they disconnect again unless you plug in or turn the key 1 or 2 clicks, so leaving the left door open doesn't really do anything except for allowing access without a door-opening wake-up signal.

I believe someone else with inactive contactors got 5.6 V at the Power Distribution Center*, & I think I read somewhere that it's a test signal so you know the circuit works & you're getting a connection.

*
Hood Telephone Motor vehicle Communication Device Audio equipment
 

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Thanks for the info. I was trying to repeat the 4 variation sequence:

1) 12V disconnect, HV disconnect/reconnect, 12V reconnect.
2) HV disconnect, 12V disconnect, HV reconnect, 12V reconnect.
3) 12V disconnect, HV disconnect, 12V reconnect, HV reconnect.
4) HV disconnect, 12V disconnect/reconnect, HV reconnect.

Do I do that with the key in the ignition and drivers door open, or with key out of the ignition? In any case, I'm very optimistic because I'm getting the dreaded 47% on the battery display. I'm just running through the motions again before I decide to throw in the towel. The Alfaobd $50 version didn't reset the contactor, so I think the HV battery power is way low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
The car should remain "ASLEEP" during any 12V or HV disconnect or reconnect!

That means key off for at least 3 minutes, & driver's door left open for 3 minutes, & NO door or hatch opened OR closed during any disconnect or reconnect.

I think you mean you're NOT very optimistic, but of course you want to try everything yourself, & then contact Poland.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
It may look promising, depending on how long that one was left unplugged.

Starting with a full charge of 4.1V/cell, it takes about:
  • 7 months for it to drop to 3.1V/cell (Fiat's 0%)
  • 10 months for it to drop to the 2.7V Samsung min. spec. (still resurrectable)
  • 15 months for it to drop to the 2.0V Fiat "Emergency" level (likely resurrectable)
  • 29 months for it to drop to a fatal 0.00V (likely ruined)
  • 48 months during the 4 years since the car was last registered.
 
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