Maybe, & I don't know how the car's gauge
or OBD calculate SOC%, besides what I wrote in post #14, but I wonder whether or not it's very important.
If you want to compare to some of my other readings, here's a link to some from when I took it to zero. First in D, & then in N:
Sheet1 Date,Time,% Lost while parked,Notes,State,OBD Odo Km.,OBD Miles,Syst. V,GOM mi.,GOM-Gauge Diff.,% Gauge,OBD Max SOC,OBD Current SOC,OBD Avg SOC,OBD Min SOC,OBD % Spread,% Gauge Low by,Gauge below Min by,Con- tactor Closes,Max # 12/17/22,12:42 AM,Discharging w. everything on in D,Drive,495...
docs.google.com
When you took it to 100 again did you listen for & hear the "balancing buzz"?
BTW, MultiECUScan appears to have a way to activate the balancing cycle, presumably regardless of SOC.
The only way I know to try & make it charge to a higher voltage is to unplug/replug, or open/close the left door.
First off, that spreadsheet is awesome!!!! Thank you for sharing because that is exactly the type of data I was looking for to help identify where/why I might be having a battery issue. I definitely will be doing that same tracking soon.
First thing I noticed is that my car claims I only have ~42 Full Ah compared to your ~60. I wonder how that is measured/calculated and if I can regain the missing Ah with a take the car to 0 recalibration. That seems to be where the SOC value comes from (available Ah / full Ah)
Unfortunately I got caught up with some work after plugging in the car, so when I ran out to check on the battery it was already done and I did not get to confirm if it did a rebalancing buzz again. It was actually at 97% when i plugged and was very slow to get to 98% (which is when I left it for work stuff), so I assumed it was operating properly and going to balance but I understand the concern that maybe it never actually tried to balance.
Where did you read about Multiecuscan doing the balancing? I have been searching like crazy but haven't found that anywhere. I wonder if its available in the free version. If so, I would definitely try it.
As for the other items:
The car unfortunately did not come with the OEM charger, so that is not an option for me. Also, I park/charge outside where I do not have an option for using a L1 charger and my L2 charging post is the only option. It's crazy, but our outside outlet is GFCI but has no ground wire going to it so the L1 charger that came with my Kia Niro wouldn't even work. My L2 Grizzl-e did get the car up to 100% (based on max cell voltage and max SOC) and did start the rebalancing previously, so I know it is capable of it.
The battery is brand new and I don't seem to lose any SOC or mV between drives (which have been days apart), but short answer is no I do not have a monitor in place. I can start to periodically check it with a multimeter though.
Yes to the yellow adapter and checking for BCM errors. The only two error I have are about the humidity sensor being not detected.
What other modules should I/can I be checking for errors? I have only ever looked at BCM and the battery module for checking battery health. I was worried about messing something up by going into things I am unfamiliar with.
Lastly, I noticed this in my latest log:
Balance Status:
Number of Cells balanced: 0
Sleep time: 336 sec
Balance time during Sleep Cycle: 0 sec
Balance time during Sleep Cycle (EEPROM):
2534.59 H
Balance time during Cycle (Plug In): 0 sec
Balance time during Cycle (Plug In) (EEPROM):
241.25 H
Balance Power (P(4V^2)/R)* # of cells balancing): 0.00 W
Energy lost to balance (EEPROM): 10.00 kWh
Target SOC differential at the end of balance: 0.39 %
SOC differential at the end of balance: 0.39 %
My question is, shouldn't the bolded/underlined Balance time of 241.25 H have increased from before and after the balancing that I know happened because I heard it? I looked at my old logs and this number hasn't changed at all. In fact, none of these numbers have changed since I started collecting logs last week. I wonder if I have a balancing issue.
