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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll start off with the before and afters and say that I probably would not recommend anyone else to try this mod. If all you want is a slightly 'whiter' light from your DRL's (they are very yellow stock IMO) - find yourself some whiter incandescent bulbs and save yourself 1/10th the work, 1/4 the price and you'll have 3x as much light output. I'm planning to add LED halos so I was going to have to most of this work anyway and now the color will match the halos, but overall I'm not thrilled with the result for how much of a pain and how much this cost.

These 3 photos I didn't adjust anything in post - they were taken with the same white balance, ISO, exposure, shutter speed - the reflection on the car is a bit different because the lighting outside changed, but the color of the lights is fairly representative.
Before
main_before.jpg

Both
main_middle.jpg

After
main_after.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
wheel-well-wide.jpg

To get LED's to work (at least on my car) the DRL's registered as burned out without any mods. The current draw (or something) isn't enough to let the computer in the car know there's a light there ready to turn on. So - I added 10ohm, 50W resistors in parallel with the "high" DRL filaments. The "low" output LED lights that are on with the headlights seem to work ok as-is.

Electrical-Overview.jpg

Inside the wheel well (I found it far easier to jack the car up and take the front wheels off to get access) there's a little access panel in the front. From there you can unscrew a cover that exposes the back of the turn signal and DRL bulbs (which you can remove with a quarter turn - and then they unplug from the socket). I chose to splice into the wires at the main plug so I could leave the bulb cover intact. The center two wires are the ones in question. Counter to intuition - the black wire is ground and the green/yellow wire is the 12V for the "high" DRL filament (the one that's on when the headlights are off).

wiring01.jpg wiring02.jpg wiring03.jpg wiring04.jpg

Once spliced into the wires - I actually had to turn the car on with the OEM bulb in the socket for a few seconds - THEN - transfer in the new LED bulb. For whatever reason - when I first turned on with the resistor and LED, the car refused to turn them on - this was true on both sides. Once I turned it on once with the incandescent bulb - the LED bulb worked fine from then on - note, I also tried this without the resistor before and that didn't work.I mounted my resistors up on the cross beam by the headlights because I was planning to use the same wires to power some LED halos in the headlights (if I can ever get them open). Even at 10 ohms and 50W, these get hot pretty fast - they really should be hard mounted to something that can handle & dissipate heat and somewhere they will get air flow.

Pass-wide.jpg Pass-close.jpg Driver-wide.jpg Driver_close.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I might still consider going that route - Like I said at the beginning this isn't a mod I would recommend although if you want to wire Halos to turn on & off with the DRL's - the wiring info is the same. In the morning sunlight I can hardly even tell the LED's are on they're so disappointingly dim. I may do some searching for brighter LED's, but I think this is about as good as it gets. Eventually I might also switch the headlights to 4300k HIDs so they match the LEDs better...or I might just find some whiter headlight bulbs. I dunno what it is about the stock bulbs on the Fiat, but they seem much more "yellow" to me than other automotive incandescents.

One other odd thing to note - I noticed now that the "high" LED DRL's work - the "low" ones that turn on with the headlights don't work anymore (I don't have resistors on the low filament wires atm). This would indicate to me there is some kind of "learning" that the ECU does when trying to determine if the bulb is out. By tricking it with the resistors - now it thinks "high" is ok and "low" is dead apparently. I'm not that upset about it though because the LED color looks almost purple by comparison to the factory headlights so - for now it's better that the LED's just turn off when the headlights are on and I don't get any stupid clashing of color temperature. Once I get some new bulbs or HIDs for the headlights I might try to set it up so the LEDs are always on & always "high" output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Eventually I will be adding HID (4300K) to my Abarth and the PIAA, going to do both at the same time along with some other mods and hopefully the colors aren't terribly off, a friend locally is also doing the same so if he does his first (likely) I may post some pics of his results somewhere on the forum. Good luck getting where you want to be with color balance and intensity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ordered 2 of the 3W single-chip LED's and will try those out first. If that's still not satisfactory I'll probably get PIAA's rather than spend another $50 on more LED's that still might not be bright enough for my taste.
 

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I have been looking into this for a while, trying to find some way to add a resistor without splicing wires, i looked into harnesses like this http://store.ijdmtoy.com/7440-LED-Hyper-Flash-Fix-For-Turn-Signal-Lights-p/aa1049.htm or bulbs with built in resistors but none of it has worked. Glad to know you found something that works (at least for now, hopefully longer) I may try this just cause i have a hard on for LEDs and the look of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
$900 per pair? Yea - I'd say so. And the DRL is disabled - uber lame.

I like the idea though - it probably would not be that hard to make a custom PCB and retrofit an LED array inside - maybe that is actually the best solution...something to consider fabricating in the future.

Regarding the piggyback harness - I don't think there's room inside the cover for all that stuff so you would have to either cut the back of the bulb cover or leave it off - neither of which are good options IMO - I don't want water or dust getting inside the reflector (I live in the desert...lots of dust).

I'm still hoping the 3W forward-facing bulbs look better and I got some spare headlights off ebay coming so I can work on the halos next.
 

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Hi, We have tried this mod and but get a warning triangle with warning check DRL when we turn the dip beam on. When dip beam turns on DRL's go off is that normal.
Also stop start seems to have stopped working.
Would the ohms of the resisistor be dependant on the LED load?
 

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So, I've been looking on the forum and I can't really find a clear answer for it, so ...
For the DRL bulbs, do I use any 7443 bulb or do I HAVE to use the 7443CK bulb?
All of the auto parts stores that I searched displays 7443 regular bulbs from Sylvania (unless they somehow made 7443 CK compatible with their regular bulbs) and I read from somewhere here that using a non-CK bulb will burn out the fuse.
Which one can I use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
FYI - years after giving up on this mod, technology has since moved forward and I tried again. Ok - so two bulbs burned out and I needed to buy new ones anyway - but hey - it works!

All 4 lights are brighter than stock - headlight, DRL, fog & signal. By my calibrated eyeballs, I'd say it's about a 25-35% increase. Not a huge difference, but definitely not less bright. I'm quite happy with the look overall and plan to keep it this way. I'm also probably going to swap the indicators on the rear signal lights too.

25299719_10214026460563036_6894071488666429453_o.jpg

Oddly - I'm getting warnings on the dash for the DRL & signal lights (no resistors..yet), but they all continue to work. Did we get a software update at some point that now keeps the lights on? I can't think of any other reason I'd get the warning, but the lights still function and I have no resistors. I bought resistors so I may put them in to remove the warnings...or...laziness might kick in since they're working. I'm inclined not to mess with it and live with the warnings.

Headlights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9VEDK
Foglights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L91AUAS
DRL's: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQWPKKX
Signals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33
 

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So I'm dealing with an annoying issue. It appears the 7443s I ordered don't have a "low-powered mode". Therefore my EVIC is tripping out. As a result, both my DRLs and brake lights don't emit low power light when my vehicle's lights are on. Not sure how to solve this.

The owners manual says the DRLs are W20/5W T20. Not sure the difference opposed to the 7443s.

My LED H8/H11 fogs look great however.

 

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I have a 2012 Sport and I have successfully upgraded the Headlights, Fog lights, and Daytime Running Lights.
Headlights are the AUXITO Canbus LED 9012 HIR2 Headlight Kit 1600LM Hi Low Beam Bulbs 6000K R13. Headlights were plug and play I did not have to use the load resistor that I did purchase.

Fog lights are the Nilight H11 LED Fog Light Bulbs, 6000 Lumens 6000K Xenon White. They were also plug and play did not have to use the purchased load resistor. Also if you jack up the car, remove the wheel/tire and 4 or 5 screws inside the wheel well you can replace the fog lights without having to remove the bumper.

Daytime Running lights are the AUXITO 2600 Lumens 7440 7443 LED Bulbs T20 7441 7444 LED Light Bulb. I did have to use the AUXITO Canbus Turn Signal Wiring No Error Flash Load Resistors Decoder Warning Error Canceller 1156 BA15S 1157 3156 3157 7443 7440. No flickering no warnings on the dash.

I could not get the AUXITO LED Turn Signal Bulbs 3157 Amber Yellow 3156 3056 4057 4157 to work with the AUXITO Canbus Turn Signal Wiring No Error Flash Load Resistors Decoder Warning Error Canceller 1156 BA15S 1157 3156 3157 7443 7440. The bulb straight would light and flash and error, with the load resistor nothing. So I have ordered a 7044 version bulb and load resistor. Hopefully that will do the trick. I really don't understand all the issues with the DRLs. So far so good.
 

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I know why the original DRLs seem "too yellow". The BCM outputs not the DC voltage to them, but 50-herz Pulse, with ~~80% duty-cycle. So, incandescent lamps will not "flicker" at this frequency, but they certainly will be "under-heated" by 20%. That gives lower temperature => yellow tint.

With LEDs the things get worse: pulsating power may give some "special effects" on the light.
 
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