So i have been replacing all my bulbs with LEDs, and been posting write ups for everyone in this section of the forum, something i can across that i thought deserved its own thread was the fact that when i replaced the bulbs in the side markers (Amber and Red fender reflectors), i can't put LEDs into all of them without causing an issue. Right now i have 3 of the 4 corners replaced with LEDs but when i try to add that 4th LED all the side markers go super dim like theres not enough power going to them. I assume its an issue cause of the lower wattage or power draw from LEDs but i don't know for sure. Anyone done this yet that can help figure out the issue?
I recall someone mentioning the need for in-line resistors for some LED swaps, in your case it seems you need the opposite and already have too much...surely someone has the answer, hope you locate the solution.
Im thinking about buying this http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Error-Free-T10-2825-W5W-Adapters-Kit-p/aa1010.htm which is an inline adapter to fix the computer error from a lot of european cars, maybe it will do something. Im going to ask the dealer tomorrow cause he's actually been cool about mods and im going to call 500 Madness cause they sell LEDs for this purpose, so hopefully if theres issues they have come across them.
In most cases brighter light output (license plate lights as an example), lasts considerably longer in most cases, and draws considerably less power. The side effect of drawing so little power is the computer monitoring the circuit tends to think there is a burnt out bulb and displays a warning light/message.
So our cars DO have the CAN BUS. I wonder if the DRL bulbs will need resistors too. Guess ill have to find out. Its interesting being on the forefront of a new frontier. Since no one has apparently done this stuff yet. Im still figuring out if EACH bulb needs the CAN BUS error adjusting or just 1 per circuit. (As in 1 for the parking lights including DRL and fender reflectors and taillights, and 1 for Turn signals).
So im waiting to get paid to buy the load resistor, i tried out a bulb for the front DRL lights, and it didn't work. As soon as i plugged it in, the LEDs had a faint glow, i tried turning the lights off and on and only got it to work once. Also the plastic base of the 7443 bulb was a lot more loose than the glass factory bulb. Gotta figure out whats up, i know there are people here that have replaced there DRL bulb with LED so i need some helpful input.
Yeah i was. I purchased some inline load resistors so that i didn't have to cut or splice any wires. Here is what i got http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Error-Free-T10-2825-W5W-Adapters-Kit-p/aa1010.htm It came as a pair but i only needed one. I put the LED bulb in it and put it in the harness and had to really work the rubber fitting into the reflector housing but it worked, and now everything is fine. I didn't need load resistors for the fender turn signals (little ones). And i haven't replaced any of the other bulbs with LEDs yet except all the interior bulbs.
Yeah i was. I purchased some inline load resistors so that i didn't have to cut or splice any wires. Here is what i got http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Error-Free-T10-2825-W5W-Adapters-Kit-p/aa1010.htm It came as a pair but i only needed one. I put the LED bulb in it and put it in the harness and had to really work the rubber fitting into the reflector housing but it worked, and now everything is fine. I didn't need load resistors for the fender turn signals (little ones). And i haven't replaced any of the other bulbs with LEDs yet except all the interior bulbs.
Edit: Please confirm, for the fiat, you only needed to run 1 resistor pack and it compensates for both bulbs?
For most cars:
DRL, FOG LED both need a resistor pack running on each bulb, therefore 1 resistor for each bulb you want to convert to LED.
I'm not sure about the side markers but I'm almost sure it falls into the same.
This is the reason I stuck to upgraded Halogen bulbs in my DRL and my fogs, to eliminate the extra cost and the head aches of drilling caps to pass the resistor wiring.
Also dimming and fading can be caused by crappy quality ebay LED bulbs, I have also been a victim to this in the past. When it comes to LED its way better to pay for the good quality bulbs!
I haven't done the DRLs yet, i bought some regular bulbs on Amazon and they were crappy. For the bumper reflectors, when i had all 4 just LEDs in there all the lights went out, but if i had just 1 halogen light and 3 LEDs it was fine. So i just did the one resistor and everything worked. I was thinking about putting the other resistor in just for completeness sake but I've been running it for a week now with just the one resistor and its been fine. Granted the only LEDs i have currently are in the bumper reflectors and the fender turn signals, everything else is still incandescent bulbs.
I found some side marker bulbs that are CANBUS compatible (they contain an internal resistor) and these work great for the side marker red and amber bulbs on my Fiat 500.
I used the model WLED-x5-CBT and these are roughly equivalent brightness to the old incandescent bulbs. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...n=DispPage&Page2Disp=/mini-wedge.html#wled-cb
Regular bulbs are all 12v no matter what. lack of current is what causes them to dim(when batt. dies). LEDs run on almost no current; the mod started because less amps=more power. Anyway, back to LEDs, Lack of voltage causes them to dim. so everything is cool until you plug in the last LED, then the voltage drops and everything goes dim. The two different types of bulbs different circuits(series vs. parallel). The reason this has never come up ANYWHERE is because its only a problem on new cars and mod-ers tend to have pre 1995 cars where you can find the same circuit wired in series and parallel(thank you Nissan for the shocking news).
Geez I go off sometimes. Either way, you need a multimeter and a great big lot of patience. or just use brighter regular bulbs. I loaded my alty right up and there wasn't a tick of difference in performance(LEDs not necessary)
I do LEDs mostly for the crisper look the lights have, there is a sharpness in the color, and the way they illuminate. Plus i prefer the more natural (maybe even bluish at times) white light than the, yellowish light of the incandescent bulbs. Another thing for me specifically with amber bulbs is that they are clear when off but illuminate the proper color, riding the housing of the egg yolk look.
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