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My "check licence plate lamp" warning came on last week. I went to the dealer, and he advised me that the entire rear latch assembly had to be replaced, (under warranty), but that the replacement part now allows for replacement of simply the burnt out LED. My recommendation is to get the latch assembly replaced while still on warranty.
Resurrecting an old thread, but if this is the case, does that not mean we can just replace the bad LED after warranty? Should be cheaper than replacing the entire latch assembly.

Also, if you replace the LED with something other than factory, your EVIC might notice and be constantly flashing at you.
 

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I had the same EVIC message as OP on my last 500 Sport, and upon close examination the LED lamps were flickering on and off, and not at any regular interval.

Dealer replaced the trunk handle/light assembly under warranty.

The service manager did mention that outside of warranty, they would have charged me $300+
Maybe they were including labor, the part is about $235 bucks.

Resurrecting an old thread, but if this is the case, does that not mean we can just replace the bad LED after warranty? Should be cheaper than replacing the entire latch assembly.

Also, if you replace the LED with something other than factory, your EVIC might notice and be constantly flashing at you.
If mine goes out after warranty I am planning to do my best to fix it rest assured, not interested in paying the replacement costs! Probably look to snag one from a wrecked car if possible and proceed with "surgery" if that option fails.
 

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Just Bought a 2012 into one light was out replaced the whole piece at the dealer even though it wasn't under warranty the 2013 models, most, can you could buy the LEDs and replaced each individual individual LED. You can't replace the hatch part from the 2012 two at 2013th we tried.
 

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The 2013 chrome "handle, outside" cannot be retrofitted to a 2012? Looking at the moparpartsonline (or whatever it is) website, the part appears to be the same for 2012 and 2013. I couldn't even find the old-style 2012 handle.

What was preventing the installation?
 

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Warranty is only good up to 50,000 miles.

This issue has come up again recently and we've been doing some checking. I know on my 2012 and a few other people's on here, you CAN change the bulbs out of the housing without changing the whole handle assembly. If you look at the housing, you can see two tabs that allow you to pop the bulbs out. I think the MOPAR cost of each bulb is something like $15. See this thread

http://www.fiat500owners.com/forum/...cussion-forum/38714-found-my-first-issue.html
 

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I had the same problem a month ago. My '12 Sport is way passed the warranty and did not want to spend over $150 to get it fixed. I bought Lite'n Boltz (can find them on ebay or the DEI site for $20, sometimes less) from DEI and replaced the license plate bolts with these bolts that have an LED on the underside of the bolt. I pulled the hatchback cover and cut the red and black wire and just wired the lights in. It took me all of about 30 minutes to complete.... if you want to know how I did it with a little more step by step shoot me a message....
 

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I had the same problem a month ago. My '12 Sport is way passed the warranty and did not want to spend over $150 to get it fixed. I bought Lite'n Boltz (can find them on ebay or the DEI site for $20, sometimes less) from DEI and replaced the license plate bolts with these bolts that have an LED on the underside of the bolt. I pulled the hatchback cover and cut the red and black wire and just wired the lights in. It took me all of about 30 minutes to complete.... if you want to know how I did it with a little more step by step shoot me a message....
I assumed this would be a nice much cheaper solution and now it is confirmed it is easily done, thanks!
 

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Liscence plate light issue solved

We bought a used Special Edition 500 about 9 months ago.
There were some small issues with it initially, but thankfully we bought the car from the dealer, and they repaired them free of charge.
The first issue was a faulty starter grounding bolt. Which was changed, then the hatch would not release. It too was repaired by the dealer.
Anyway, just the other day a warning light came up, stating that the license plate light was faulty.
The license plate lights are LED and rightly should last forever....well almost.
Suspecting a loose connection, took off the interior hatch cover, I checked the connections, and all looked good. I then removed the rear hatch handle.
I popped out the LED lights, disconnected the electrical connector and put 4 volts on each light. They worked.
By the way LED lights will only work of you have the polarity correct (diode). If they don't light up, switch the positive and negative.
I tested for voltage coming from the wiring harness at the plug which plugs into the hatch handle.
There are 3 terminals on the plug. The two outside terminals power the plate lights. The center terminal is for the latch release.
There was no voltage across the outside terminals. Black wire and green wire with a yellow stripe (on our car anyway).
I then suspected a broken wire.
There is a rubber flexible wiring conduit which shields the wiring which passes from the body to the hatch. It is located at the upper left side of the hatch.
It's a bit of a job, but this shield can be pulled out of the hatch & rolled back.
After finding the green and yellow wire, I gently pulled on it. Yes it was broken.
I soldered in 1" joiner and put heat shrink around it.
I plugged in the latch handle, turned on the lights and voila the plate lights worked just fine.
Chance are that this is the issue with most of the license plate light faults.
I hope this is of some assistance.
Scooterboy in Halifax Nova Scotia.
 

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I had the handle replaced earlier this year when both lights went out. Last week the right side died on the new one. The LED itself is glowing slightly, but not producing any real light.
Just saying...
 

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I had the handle replaced earlier this year when both lights went out. Last week the right side died on the new one. The LED itself is glowing slightly, but not producing any real light.
Just saying...
Luckily Fiat now had the option to replace the LED rather than the entire unit like they started out doing!
 

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Mine is going in tomorrow for a couple of things, this being one. Let's see what happens.
 

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This is for a 2012 sport with a build date of January 2012.

There are small tabs for where the LED lights are also, so I was able to take out the light bulb and disconnect it from the base. Now the odd thing is the light that I took out does not have any model # on it, nor does it look like the light that the 2013+ has. Can anyone shed any insights on this? I mean my car is under 50K, so I can just take it back to the dealer, but I would much rather change out the bulb myself if I can find a replacement bulb for it.

Gun Firearm
 

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I this the total cost of the part? 141 bucks?


Lamps Rear - HANDLE, Liftgate

Part # 68110647AANumber On Image: 14
Category: Electrical
MSRP$141.00 Price may vary by dealer
HANDLE Liftgate


Lamps Rear - HANDLE, Liftgate

Part # 68110647AANumber On Image: 14
Category: Electrical
MSRP$141.00 Price may vary by dealer

I was as looking for my own answer today. I hope it's covered under warranty now.
 

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Edit: Just caught up on the thread.

So, I'm still not sure if the later model LED panels/bulbs will fit into the early model "replace the whole unit" version. Some say it doesn't fit, but is that because it physically won't go in, or because the old model is hard wired, without the connector? I can rewire the thing, no problem, but I want the replacement to actually FIT the hole that the old LED bulb was in. This has been the problem I've found while looking for aftermarket bulbs/LEDs to put in there. They're all designed to plug into normal bulb sockets.

I'll keep looking for a full replacement at a reasonable cost, but would love a DIY, aftermarket, or OEM replacement involving just the LEDs, and not the entire handle at an outrageous price.

And yes, mine is just out of warranty.
 

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Edit: Just caught up on the thread.

So, I'm still not sure if the later model LED panels/bulbs will fit into the early model "replace the whole unit" version. Some say it doesn't fit, but is that because it physically won't go in, or because the old model is hard wired, without the connector? I can rewire the thing, no problem, but I want the replacement to actually FIT the hole that the old LED bulb was in. This has been the problem I've found while looking for aftermarket bulbs/LEDs to put in there. They're all designed to plug into normal bulb sockets.

I'll keep looking for a full replacement at a reasonable cost, but would love a DIY, aftermarket, or OEM replacement involving just the LEDs, and not the entire handle at an outrageous price.

And yes, mine is just out of warranty.
The newer version lamps are at a angle in the hood. You either have to buy a new hood with lamps. Direct replacement. Find a salvage 2013 car. Make sure the lamps are at a angle not straight on like the early 2012's. You can replace the LEDs on the upgrade.
 
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