[my12by60]

I just read this whole thread because I am trying to determine if our 2015 has experienced any actual range loss or if our % meter is just out of calibration. We have had our 2015 since July 2018 when we bought it with 17,000 miles on it. It now has 39,500 miles and we have loved the car. The % meter is depleting quicker than it has in the past in relation to the same driving routes and habits. Is this likely just due to the meter losing its original calibration in relation to actual remaining battery energy or is it possible that the battery bank is actually losing range?

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I would not hesitate to put my money on the gauge, as opposed to battery degradation, causing any measurable range loss at only 40k mi. (EDIT: Range loss is about 2.3% per 10k mi) You can find out for $17 (OBD bluetooth dongle & AlfaOBD "demo") by comparing the gauge % at the low end to OBD%. Mine with about 25k mi shows 18% when the gauge shows 11.

IF you really need the max range, or to alleviate anxiety, for free you can discharge to the 12v warning & see if your range increases. Ideally recharge from there on a metered charger & compare its reading to the 25kWh EPA new spec.
EDIT: More gauge calibrations below in post #45

There may be other factors though, such as low temperature which temporarily reduces battery capacity, even without HVAC, & increases air density. A friend had perceived range loss due to familiarity: She learned exactly how fast she could drive & coast into her drive with 0% instead of before when she'd go slower & get home with 10%.

 

[my12by60]

From reading a bit here, it seems like these 500e batteries are holding up well, which is nice to hear and what you are confirming. The % gauge is handy to have when it is giving a proper indication. More than once we have rolled home with 0% to 5% on the gauge. So it is nice to have it calibrated accurately.

We are running down to 0% now so that we can do the recharge in hopes or recalibrating the gauge. Is the 12V warning displayed on the dash screen or do I need to connect an OBD device to see that warning? Is it essential to get to the 12V warning in order to get the gauge recalibrated correctly? I am not too worried about measuring for any depletion of the battery pack capacity vs. new as I would not expect to find too much depletion. We will be recharging at home so we won't be able to measure how much power is consumed from 0% to full charge. My main goal is to get back to good readings on the gauge.

 

[robotworks]

Figure one should not think this way though it would be sort of 'fun' to drive it for free without having to pay to charge it. Value of time comes into the picture when not hear home. Think a sales guy figure it cost about $20 for 1,000 miles of driving though possible I got that wrong plus different kwhr charges based on where one lives and if they pay to use a charging station.

Since my free charge station is only 1 mile there and back figure it would force me to get some exercise during my walk. Darn, hope people don't go around stealing charging cables...wonder if there are good 'locks' sold to prevent that from occuring. Never know with people now days it seems.

You should think that way. I worked for 4 years at a company with Level2 chargers, free. When I left that company, oh wait, laid off when the company imploded, I found a free charger .5 miles from the house. Close to 5 years of maybe plugging in at the house three or four times. And yes, exercise. Go for it. In your case, I would have taken the grey 17. I have a 14 silver with a sunroof. Of course I live in the SF BAy area so heat isn't an issue. You might find the sun too bright in FLA. BTW, in 7 years of leasing/owning a 500e... never in the the shop. Only replaceable parts, batteries (12v), windshield wipers, and am on third set of tires. Good luck. t

 

[500bpack]

Not meant to be this time...settled for a used 07 pt cruiser convertible for some drop top down sun now and again. Maybe one day in the future. So far as 500e with sunroof goes...down in Florida wonder if one could simply fashion some soft of cover to go up in the sunroof area when closed. Seems that mesh hole fabric screen pattern material really lots a lot of heat into the cabin.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

We are running down to 0% now so that we can do the recharge in hopes or recalibrating the gauge. Is the 12V warning displayed on the dash screen or do I need to connect an OBD device to see that warning? Is it essential to get to the 12V warning in order to get the gauge recalibrated correctly?

If you have OBD, just go until IT shows 0.00% SOC. As a double-check, soon after that it should show the starter battery at 12.x volts (prior, it will show 14.x)

The 12V warning is displayed on the instrument cluster after the drive battery stops charging it AND it has subsequently dropped significantly after that. Someone posted it has to go all the way to 10.0V which for a starter battery is considered complete discharge to "dead", & rather harsh treatment.

 

[my12by60]

If you have OBD, just go until IT shows 0.00% SOC. As a double-check, soon after that it should show the starter battery at 12.x volts (prior, it will show 14.x)

The 12V warning is displayed on the instrument cluster after the drive battery stops charging it AND it has subsequently dropped significantly after that. Someone posted it has to go all the way to 10.0V which for a starter battery is considered complete discharge to "dead", & rather harsh treatment.

Ok. So I don't want to wait for the dash warning as that could shorten the life of my 12V starter battery by taking it to such high discharge. I will get out my ELM OBD gizmo and see if I can get it to display the SOC info that you guys are talking about on my iphone.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

If you have a volt-meter that works, by checking periodically after the car's display says "0%". It will show 14.x volts for a while, & then after a couple hours with lights & rear defog on it will suddenly drop to 12.x V.

iPhone won't work with the AlfaOBD app we're using. If you only have an iPhone/iPad, try a tablet/laptop, or ask your friends if they have an old Android, or get one for $15 on Amazon. No service needed, just download the app on WiFi.

 

[my12by60]

If you have a volt-meter that works, by checking periodically after the car's display says "0%". It will show 14.x volts for a while, & then after a couple hours with lights & rear defog on it will suddenly drop to 12.x V.

iPhone won't work with the AlfaOBD app we're using. If you only have an iPhone/iPad, try a tablet/laptop, or ask your friends if they have an old Android, or get one for $15 on Amazon. No service needed, just download the app on WiFi.

I have a volt meter that I can use. I will try that and look for the drop to 12.x as you advise. Thanks.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

OBD has the advantage that after the car's display says "0%" you can check OBD % & keep driving until IT gets close to 0% (where the motor stops). That can take 1/12th the time of parking with lights on. Driving 45mph takes about 6 kW. Rear defog + lights totals less than 1/2 kW.

 

[my12by60]

OBD has the advantage that after the car's display says "0%" you can check OBD % & keep driving until IT gets close to 0% (where the motor stops). That can take 1/12th the time of parking with lights on. Driving 45mph takes about 6 kW. Rear defog + lights totals less than 1/2 kW.

Have others proven that just running the range meter down to 0% and then starting a recharge is inadequate to reset the calibration of the meter? You make it sound like getting the car into a precise depletion state (the 12v zone) is required for an effective recalibration.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Correct.

Others have reported that going until 0% is displayed (& even a bit beyond that) is inadequate for reset. It's also pretty strongly implied by the OBD displaying something like "SOC Adjustment Pending. Target SOC 0.00%" (from memory, I don't have it handy right now). That indicates that 0% is required on OBD, which in my case would be about negative 10% on the car's display.

Think of it like if you were trying to use up all the gas in a gas car. Going until the gauge reads E won't do it.

Also note that calling it "the range meter" might lead to confusing it with the nearby display of estimated remaining range.

 

[my12by60]

Correct.

Others have reported that going until 0% is displayed (& even a bit beyond that) is inadequate for reset. It's also pretty strongly implied by the OBD displaying something like "SOC Adjustment Pending. Target SOC 0.00%" (from memory, I don't have it handy right now). That indicates that 0% is required on OBD, which in my case would be about negative 10% on the car's display.

Think of it like if you were trying to use up all the gas in a gas car. Going until the gauge reads E won't do it.

Also note that calling it "the range meter" might lead to confusing it with the nearby display of estimated remaining range.

We are all Apple products in our house, except for a few older chromebooks. Will an older chromebook run the Alpha app that is needed to connect to the OBD device?

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Probably. It works fine on my old "generic" ZTE tablet. Just go to the Google Play Store on a Chromebook & install/open the app, which is AlfaOBD (with an "f", as in Alfa-Romeo). In my experience with 5 different devices, if it installs/opens it will work.