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Discussion Starter #1
Apparently the brick on my FIAT is bad. Although I'm not completely convinced, I'm getting P1065 errors (oil supply cylinder 1). The Studio says the MA Brick cannot be replaced without special tools and retainer tool required, otherwise, not a DIY task. Is this true?

Secondly, the errors for the MA brick only occur within 3 minutes of cold start-up. This error also started when I switched from Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 to 5w-40 Motul 8100. When the error occurs, the little Abarth runs very ragged, 3 cylinders I suspect. I'm thinking of trying 2 things first. First, drain out the new, expensive Motul oil I put in and trying OEM Pennzoil again. Second, replace the MA oil filter screen. Theorizing that possibly when the engine oil is cold, it isn't flowing freely to the MA Brick causing the CEL. The last P1065 occurred 150 seconds after start-up. Previous errors showed similar duration.

And back to my main question is "Can the MA Brick be replaced as a DIY project? Looks like I can get one online for $620. Assuming there is a gasket set to go with it. Hopefully someone here has done this repair. Cheers!
 

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I think your idea of replacing the filter screen is a good one. To take it one step further, I'd replace the oil with MOPAR oil. This will have the added benefit of being *exactly* what the engine was designed for and endurance tested on at Chrysler.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bryan,

Thanks for the suggestion. I followed your advice. I removed the Multi-air screen and cleaned it with "brake kleen" and Q-tips. It had gunk in it but seemed far from plugged. I had a very difficult time getting it out. Basically I had to jack up the engine, remove the motor mount, intake plumbing, radiator overflow bottle, etc. Then had to go buy a ball-end 10MM male allen socket (Harbor Freight). So what I was told would take 30 minutes took me 3.5 hours. I then got the engine hot and drained out the almost new Motul 5w-40 oil and filled with Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 and another new oil filter. Took the car on a 30 minute drive and it's running perfectly. It's running like new in fact. So fingers crossed! Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Forgot to mention. Went to the Studio to buy MOPAR oil and they plopped 4 quarts of Pennzoil 5w-40 Euro Platinum on the counter. So I used the Platinum I'd just purchased since it was identical. Apparently they have been using Pennzoil labelled oil in this FIAT and there were no issues until I did the Motul switch. Hope it works.
 

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Ha! That's funny about the MOPAR oil. I hope everything works out. Chrysler uses what they call Chrysler Material Standards (MS) and a lot of products they sell are off the shelf stuff that meets or exceeds what their engineers designed products to use.

I used to work in product testing and can tell you that manufacturers and contract buyers test stuff and use specific consumables like oil, filters, fluids etc. Engines and systems are endurance tested with (usually) a single configuration of consumable fluids and items so sticking with stock is probably a good idea for a system like MultiAir. (IMO)
 

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Bryan,

Thanks for the suggestion. I followed your advice. I removed the Multi-air screen and cleaned it with "brake kleen" and Q-tips. It had gunk in it but seemed far from plugged. I had a very difficult time getting it out. Basically I had to jack up the engine, remove the motor mount, intake plumbing, radiator overflow bottle, etc. Then had to go buy a ball-end 10MM male allen socket (Harbor Freight). So what I was told would take 30 minutes took me 3.5 hours. I then got the engine hot and drained out the almost new Motul 5w-40 oil and filled with Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 and another new oil filter. Took the car on a 30 minute drive and it's running perfectly. It's running like new in fact. So fingers crossed! Thanks again.
I have no idea why they make the car so hard to work on.

I have an '88 Samaui and I changed the cam shaft timing belt this year. Took about 3 hours. I wouldn't even consider doing it on a 500.

Tedolph
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Car is not healthy. Worked great the day I did the work. The next day I went for a drive and 5 minutes in, cylinder 1 down. Didn't come back. 3 -P1065 errors and 1 P301. Took out the fouled plug and color looked great but it was wet. Oil? Gas?
 

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Car is not healthy. Worked great the day I did the work. The next day I went for a drive and 5 minutes in, cylinder 1 down. Didn't come back. 3 -P1065 errors and 1 P301. Took out the fouled plug and color looked great but it was wet. Oil? Gas?
Likely it's fuel. Maybe, the likely cause is crank position sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could the CPS cause a P1065? P1065, according to my code reader, is: "Cylinder 1 Oil Supply Solenoid Valve Switch On Time Out Of Range".
 

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I took the following out from a pretty old post on the other forum. The reason I mentioned CPS is because of what seems to be the fuel (I'm hoping it's not oil) on the spark plug. CPS is one of the parameter that PCM reads to operate the multiair valve train.



P1067-00-CYLINDER 2 OIL SUPPLY SOLENOID VALVE SWITCH ON TIME OUT OF RANGE


(Codes P1065 (cyl 1), P1067 (cyl 2), P1069 (cyl 3), P106B (cyl 4) are related)


Theory of Operation
Multi-Air is an electronically controlled variable intake valve phase and lift system. Unlike conventional intake valve phase and lift system which controls all the cylinder intake valves simultaneously and in the same proportion; Multi-Air, through the use of an electronically controlled “ hydraulic link” between the camshaft and intake valve, allowing for each intake valve to be controlled independently. The valve lift and timing can be adjusted infinitely.


The Multi-Air valve train has a mechanical camshaft lobe acting on a hydraulic pump located between the camshaft intake lobe and the intake valve. The pump provides oil under pressure to a two-way electro-hydraulic solenoid valve called the Variable Valve Actuator (VVA) Solenoid. The VVA Solenoid is electronically controlled during the specific intake cam lobe event by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). During the event the VVA Solenoid is commanded to either hold oil pressure or bleed oil. The Variable Valve Actuator (VVA) Solenoid is a normally open solenoid. The PCM provides 12 volts to close the solenoid. The position of the VVA Solenoid determines the intake valve timing and lift. This change on valve action is similar to creating a change in the camshaft lobe profile affecting lift and duration of the valve opening.




When Monitored:
This diagnostic runs when the following condition is met:
With the engine running.


Set Conditions:
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) measures the time needed to turn on the VVA Solenoid. When the PCM recognizes that the VVA Solenoids switch on time is too fast or too slow a fault is set.


Default Actions:
The MIL light will illuminate.


Possible Causes


ENGINE OIL LEVEL LOW
ENGINE OIL AERATED OR CONTAMINATED
INCORRECT ENGINE OIL FILTER
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE DUE TO A MECHANICAL FAILURE IN THE OILING SYSTEM
VVA ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY


What to check:


1. CHECK FOR AN ACTIVE DTC
Repair these first.

2. CHECK THE ENGINE OIL


NOTE: The actuators will not operate if the oil pressure is too low or too high.

Check the engine for the following:


LOW ENGINE OIL
INCORRECT OIL FILTER THAT DOES NOT MEET OEM SPECIFICATIONS
OIL DIRTY OR DETERIORATED (Lack of scheduled oil changes)
CORRECT VISCOSITY AND WEIGHT
ENGINE OIL CONTAMINATED (i.e., coolant and/or fuel)



3. CHECK OIL PRESSURE / ENGINE MECHANICAL


1. Remove the Oil Pressure Switch and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge.


2. Crank the engine for at least 10 seconds and check the oil pressure at the Oil Pressure Switch location.


Oil pressure should be between 0.8 bar (11.6 psi) and 7.5 bar (108.8 psi)?

If all tests pass, Replace the Variable Valve Actuator Assembly in accordance with the Service Information.

courtesy of FCA
 

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Wow, that is a huge range of acceptable oil pressure?

Or is that just the pressure it takes to run the multi-air system?

TEdolph
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My car is dead. Drove it today and it started and ran great. Got 1 mile from home and it lost a cylinder again. Now I have a new error. This one is a P1061 "Cylinder 1 Oil Supply Solenoid Stuck". I think the Multiair Actuator unit is bad but the Dealer originally quoted a new engine. The MA unit is around $670 online. Debating if I should gamble on the MA unit or sell the car as it is? The car has had good care and was never raced, according to the previous Female owner. I've only put barely 1K miles on it since March. Lesson learned not to buy a FIAT car without a warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got a shop manual via online access. Excellent information. All the tests and codes point to the MA unit. Confident the Multiair unit (VVA) is bad now. I removed the Multiair Brick today and tried to disassemble it. I cannot seem to get the solenoids off the MA unit. I assume they are screwed in but can't budge them at all. If I could replace solenoid #1, I may have a running car again. Found a bad MA unit for $65 which would be perfect for parts. But can't get mine apart. I am concerned that FIAT thinks I need a new engine but I'm going to chance it and order a new MA unit. The engine top-end is amazingly clean. Documented 3K mile oil changes must help. So will order the MA unit tomorrow (Monday).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: I ordered a new FIAT 500 Multiair Actuator and a Multiair oil filter on Monday morning from "FIAT Parts Warehouse", in Evanston, Illinois. I made an online order and then called to let them know the vehicle is down. They said they would try and expedite the order. Appreciated that! Tonight I checked the status of my order and am disappointed. From their email: Your order has been updated as follows:

Hello, unfortunately we no longer carry the parts you have ordered. Your order will be cancelled and your payment refunded.

68189847AA
1$ 22.08FILTER. MULTIAIR ACTUATOR OIL SUPPLY.
04892697AG
1$ 618.75ACTUATOR. Multiair.
These are parts that their site still shows are available yet my order gets canceled. Not happy with them. Lost 4 more days and now going into a Holiday. Going the wrecking yard route now. Found one tonight with low miles. Going to try and obtain it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Actually, I'm now glad they canceled my order. I found a 2016 Turbo 500 with 14K miles. Head-on collision, engine block is damaged, cylinder head is perfect. Buying the whole head, complete, including exhaust valve cam and the MA actuator. They sent me pictures and it looks new. Should have it within the next week. Hopefully the solenoid connectors don't get broken off in shipment. I have torn my old MA Actuator down as far as I can. Pretty amazing engineering. Would like to fix my old one sometime.
 

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Keep us posted! Drives me nuts sometimes when you order stuff and it's out of stock. I've found that sometimes when ordering from dealers, parts will show as in stock but have been purchased internally (another dealer) and that goes on a different database which isn't rectified against the point of sale e-system.

Can you snap some pics for us or do a write up on the install?
 
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