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I have a 2013 500 turbo which experienced the cylinder 4 code, P106B, OIL SUPPLY SOLENOID VALVE SWITCH ON TIME OUT OF RANGE. We've owned it three months and now it's parked 4 hours away in my parent's garage. I've been quoted $3000 to install a new multiair actuator or $4500 for a used engine. I'm eager to find out how you do. Thanks for posting.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I installed a used Multiair unit from a 2015 FIAT 500. The install appeared to go fine. Started the car and the engine destroyed itself. High crankcase pressure. Some type of internal damage. Fiat now quoting me $8000-9000 to replace the engine. If I cannot find a shop to install a used engine for much less, the car is going away.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I've been slowly troubleshooting the Abarth. I ran a compression test results as follows: 180,175, 175, 170. So this was promising. Ordered an OTC leak down tester and excellent, all cylinders. But the crankcase is still very pressurized. Oil blows out anywhere it can. I have been letting the car sit as busy with work and other projects. I finally located the cause - inexpensive fix. The hard line between the brake booster and vacuum pump was cracked. Repaired the hose and car is RUNNING! Here's the deal, in case someone else gets burned. The vacuum pump is driven by the exhaust valve camshaft. The vacuum pump exhausts into the engine through a hole in the head. Since the vacuum line in a normal case going to the brake booster is a sealed circuit, once vacuum is developed, no more air is being exhausted from the pump. But a leaky connection, such as a failed brake booster, disconnected line, or cracked line in my case, it pushes tons of air into the crankcase. Hopefully this pressure didn't damage any seals. I would think the rear main seal and front seal would survive. Now to wait and see if cylinder 1 no longer fouls the plug since the Multiair unit is new. So I feel really stupid here. When it doesn't make sense, the fix is likely simple. Appreciate all the help.
 

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here are some search terms to lookup for replacing the multiairbrick. I don't have enough posts to link

60050-getting-ready-replace-spark-plug-well-seals-has-anyone-done-their-own

Alfa_MiTo_1.4_Turbo_Multiair_actuator_removal

784098-how-to-multiair-unit-replacement
 

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I took the following out from a pretty old post on the other forum. The reason I mentioned CPS is because of what seems to be the fuel (I'm hoping it's not oil) on the spark plug. CPS is one of the parameter that PCM reads to operate the multiair valve train.



P1067-00-CYLINDER 2 OIL SUPPLY SOLENOID VALVE SWITCH ON TIME OUT OF RANGE


(Codes P1065 (cyl 1), P1067 (cyl 2), P1069 (cyl 3), P106B (cyl 4) are related)


Theory of Operation
Multi-Air is an electronically controlled variable intake valve phase and lift system. Unlike conventional intake valve phase and lift system which controls all the cylinder intake valves simultaneously and in the same proportion; Multi-Air, through the use of an electronically controlled “ hydraulic link” between the camshaft and intake valve, allowing for each intake valve to be controlled independently. The valve lift and timing can be adjusted infinitely.


The Multi-Air valve train has a mechanical camshaft lobe acting on a hydraulic pump located between the camshaft intake lobe and the intake valve. The pump provides oil under pressure to a two-way electro-hydraulic solenoid valve called the Variable Valve Actuator (VVA) Solenoid. The VVA Solenoid is electronically controlled during the specific intake cam lobe event by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). During the event the VVA Solenoid is commanded to either hold oil pressure or bleed oil. The Variable Valve Actuator (VVA) Solenoid is a normally open solenoid. The PCM provides 12 volts to close the solenoid. The position of the VVA Solenoid determines the intake valve timing and lift. This change on valve action is similar to creating a change in the camshaft lobe profile affecting lift and duration of the valve opening.




When Monitored:
This diagnostic runs when the following condition is met:
With the engine running.


Set Conditions:
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) measures the time needed to turn on the VVA Solenoid. When the PCM recognizes that the VVA Solenoids switch on time is too fast or too slow a fault is set.


Default Actions:
The MIL light will illuminate.


Possible Causes


ENGINE OIL LEVEL LOW
ENGINE OIL AERATED OR CONTAMINATED
INCORRECT ENGINE OIL FILTER
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE DUE TO A MECHANICAL FAILURE IN THE OILING SYSTEM
VVA ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY


What to check:


1. CHECK FOR AN ACTIVE DTC
Repair these first.

2. CHECK THE ENGINE OIL


NOTE: The actuators will not operate if the oil pressure is too low or too high.

Check the engine for the following:


LOW ENGINE OIL
INCORRECT OIL FILTER THAT DOES NOT MEET OEM SPECIFICATIONS
OIL DIRTY OR DETERIORATED (Lack of scheduled oil changes)
CORRECT VISCOSITY AND WEIGHT
ENGINE OIL CONTAMINATED (i.e., coolant and/or fuel)



3. CHECK OIL PRESSURE / ENGINE MECHANICAL


1. Remove the Oil Pressure Switch and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge.


2. Crank the engine for at least 10 seconds and check the oil pressure at the Oil Pressure Switch location.


Oil pressure should be between 0.8 bar (11.6 psi) and 7.5 bar (108.8 psi)?

If all tests pass, Replace the Variable Valve Actuator Assembly in accordance with the Service Information.

courtesy of FCA
ENGINE REPLACEMENT REQUIRED...... IMPROPER TECHNICIAN INSTALL....WTF!!!!
 

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Apparently the brick on my FIAT is bad. Although I'm not completely convinced, I'm getting P1065 errors (oil supply cylinder 1). The Studio says the MA Brick cannot be replaced without special tools and retainer tool required, otherwise, not a DIY task. Is this true?

Secondly, the errors for the MA brick only occur within 3 minutes of cold start-up. This error also started when I switched from Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 to 5w-40 Motul 8100. When the error occurs, the little Abarth runs very ragged, 3 cylinders I suspect. I'm thinking of trying 2 things first. First, drain out the new, expensive Motul oil I put in and trying OEM Pennzoil again. Second, replace the MA oil filter screen. Theorizing that possibly when the engine oil is cold, it isn't flowing freely to the MA Brick causing the CEL. The last P1065 occurred 150 seconds after start-up. Previous errors showed similar duration.

And back to my main question is "Can the MA Brick be replaced as a DIY project? Looks like I can get one online for $620. Assuming there is a gasket set to go with it. Hopefully someone here has done this repair. Cheers!
Hi there, thanks for your post. I’m having an similar issue with my 500 pop and I fixed everything except for the Multiair screen.
I was curious did your fix here last a long time or did you end up replacing the brick? Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Hello, The filter screen and oil change was a fail. The MA Brick I bought with 14K miles on it arrived damaged as the electrical connector for solenoid 1 was busted off. I figured it was toast. The seller gave me all my money back except for $100. I decided to try and fix it. I bought a cordless rotary tool and ground down the broken plastic until I could see the 2 fine solenoid wires. I soldered fine copper wires onto the short leads. Did the same with the connector piece that was busted off. So I had the solenoid and the electrical connector end with 2 fine copper wires hanging off each of them. Glued the connector onto the solenoid with clear JB Weld with the wires hanging out of each side. JB Weld says it's good for 400 degrees F. After the epoxy set up, the soldered the wires together. Then I flattened them against the solenoid connector extension and glued them down. I built up the JB Weld a bit. Installed the MA Brick and ever since, the little Abarth has run like new. I believe the fix is solid. My Boss at my work thinks I'm nuts for even trying to fix it and for trusting my repair. I don't see a problem with the repair and since I'm was trying to save money, I did just that. The MA brick is around $1500 new, last I checked. I did have a **** of a time getting the MA Brick installed as the springs really are hard to compress without the special tool. I finally got it to drop onto the alignment pins. After that, all went well. The Dealer acted very surprised I did the work myself and that my engine was OK. With some care some mechanical aptitude, you can replace the MA Brick yourself. If you were in the Portland Oregon area, we could get 'er done.
 
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