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It's been a full week and almost 1,000 miles since I've rotated the tires. All I can say is I actually prefer the way the car drives and handles with the wider wheels at the front. Mileage is pretty much about the same. I thought I would lose some since the motor now has to move heavier wheels, but I'm still getting pretty much the same mileage. This is from my drive a couple of days ago. The battery actually went to 0% while I'm still 3 miles from home, but made it nonetheless.
109086
 

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2013 FIAT 500e
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  • Low rolling resistance doesn't seem necessary. I get exactly the same range with standard all-seasons, even though they're 2 sizes wider, although they're not much different in actual total width or tread width. Analyzing for that purchase I was surprised to learn that not all 205s are the same width!
  • I found the best prices at America's Tire (also known as Discount Tire in some areas). They have a great warranty, which has already more than paid for itself in 3 free puncture repairs & a free new tire due to a puncture too near the tread edge to fix.
  • "Proper" front-to-back rotation by remounting/balancing doesn't take the shop all that much time, but it costs so much that it doesn't take long for a set of lighter, matching wheels to pay for themselves.
  • It's generally the tread pattern that makes a tire directional, requiring remounting/balancing to "rotate" left to right, but rotating front-back is usually better anyway.
  • To rotate the stock wheel/tire assemblies front-to-rear, the alignment studs don't need to be "swapped", just removed & discarded. Mine also came off easily. It makes no difference in range, since total rotational weight & rolling resistance doesn't change. It actually improves cornering, with less UNDERSTEER (typo in post 19 above). The average unskilled driver is safest with a bit of understeer (front end slides first), but a stock 500e has plenty to spare, with enough still remaining even with the wider wheels on the front.
 

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"The battery actually went to 0% while I'm still 3 miles from home, but made it nonetheless."

I think the battery is like a tube of toothpaste... "There is always a little bit more if you squeeze it"
 

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Yeah I looked at battery control module a few times and there's about 3-5 amp hours left when the gauge goes to zero. I was pretty sure I had enough to get home.
 

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  • To rotate the stock wheel/tire assemblies front-to-rear, the alignment studs don't need to be "swapped", just removed & discarded.
The studs actually do serve a useful purpose that facilitates remounting the wheel, because you can hang the wheel on the studs while inserting the lug. When I had a Mini Cooper and rotated wheels myself, it was awkward to lift and align the wheel while dealing with the lug at the same time. A stud system like this would have made it easier.
 

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Ya, been there, done that, BUT my 500e's aftermarket wheels align themselves easily on the hub centers, & just need to be rotated to line up the bolt holes. I believe the stock wheels do the same.

Apparently motor power doesn't stop until OBD hits 0.00%, regardless of the car's own gauge:

Fiatatat recently recalibrated the car's % gauge (by taking it to DC-DC cutoff) & reported that motor power stopped when OBD hit 0.00%. That means that the further out-of-calibration our gauges are, the further we can drive after they hit 0% (where I had previously thought it would stop). My OBD reads about 10% high when the car's gauge approaches zero, so I could probably drive about 10 miles!
 
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