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Discussion Starter #1
Just got a used 500e and I really like the car! This is my first EV and I was defiantly going to buy used. At first there was lot of that range anxiety, but with a couple of charging apps and me not being a road rage driver anymore fixes that.

I do have some questions though.

I’ve been trying to get u connect to work and I just called Mopar about getting the car in my account. But there have been mixed post on if it’s possible. Is the my500e module the best solution?

What tires should I get to maximize range? The threads are getting pretty low.

I sometimes hit very unrealistic numbers on the range gauge. It’s at 66 % and shows 88 miles. But drops drastically to 65 miles or so.I tried driving efficiently for that range.

Any other tips and tricks for a newbie like me?

is awesome to have a community for this car! At first I thought it was purely made buy fiat but it’s a sleeper German car
 

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U-Connect only works for 3 years. I think that starts at the date of original sale. I don't even miss mine. It wasn't all that reliable.

Both me & my best friend got similar average range, & we both found ZERO range loss when we both switched to 205/50-15 Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 tires, which are better in every other way (cost, weight, wear, wet/dry grip)

The range gauge is only accurate if you aren't at either end of a hill, or a stretch of different speed (faster or slower).

Newbie tips:

- For best range, unplug the VERY false-positive-prone humidity sensor just right of the rearview (pop the cover straight off, insert a round toothpick between the black socket & purple plug, unplug, replace cover). It keeps turning on the A/C compressor (but not its light!!) & turning off recirculate (which can save you range when it's not room temperature outside).

- Open the hood when charging. The heat from the onboard charger can make the 12V battery die prematurely.

- Carry a 10mm (or Crescent wrench or even just pliers) to disconnect the 12V battery for a minute in order to reboot the computer in case you get an electronic glitch that won't go away by just turning the key off until the screen goes fully black. I learned that from others for whom this has also worked. In over 4 years I've only had to do it once. (much less often than my newer DVR, LG phone, or brand new Keurig!)
 

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- When slowing to about 6mph, regen stops & the electrically-boosted friction brakes start burning electricity, so you'll get more range if you brake really early for red lights, & coast slow enough for them to go green in time to avoid braking below 7mph.

- It IS possible to get HVAC into vent-only mode, to save power. (fan-only uses even less power than A/C*) Just keep hitting left-side buttons until ALL the lights go off, & set the temp on "Low" (to keep the heater off). Then you can select any of the right-side buttons for face, feet, windshield, & fan speed.

* IF you haven't recently used moderate HVAC, the range gauge will drop about 15% the first time you turn it on. After a few miles though, it learns how little power you're actually using, & readjusts accordingly, sometimes to the exact same as before, for A/C, since the HV batt is much more efficient at 85 degrees or more than it is when colder.
 

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- Like any other car with a sensitive accelerator, it helps to press your foot against the right side of the foot well. Cruise control works well even in traffic, using the "+" & "-" buttons to vary your speed. (people generally don't alter their speed much more than a few mph at a time)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the helpful tips! I’m really digging this car. Was reading some more and learned it was a compliance car... so not the best example from fiat. And the the CEO said not to buy the car?! Wow. Anyways I really am enjoying this EV, don’t think I can go back to ICE at all.
 

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3 months ago the 500e wasn't even on my radar. At below $10k I thought my only option was a degraded Nissan leaf. I'm just glad the 500e somehow started popping up in my searches and I'm still feeling like I stole something considering the going price for these right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For real on the Nissan Leaf degradation though. When I was shopping the same 2013 year leaf can only go 40 miles! I commute to SF from the east bay and I get 50 percent left when getting to work. So theoretically I can drive back home if I don’t get a charging station. ( really want to test a full commute for peace of mind) with a leaf I would have to defiantly get a charge. Tbh though if they had at Least 150 mile range I’ll be a happy camper. But not paying for gas still is a pro and for an entry level EV I’m happy with the range. Driving around the east bay would have no problems with this car
 

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I scored a used 13' leaf with a warranty replacement battery for my wife for $5,500. So I was holding out to find another one like that for myself when the 500e came into the picture. Even with the new-ish battery, I still get more range with the 500e than she does in the leaf. The leaf has a nicer and quieter ride although I really enjoy the ease of navigating LA's traffic with the 500e.
 

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I've only had my 500e for about a month now but I am finally starting to learn how much range I really get. If I drive like a granny to where I barely get any of the orange to show up on the gauge then I can usually get about 4.4mi/kWh. Sometimes more around town. With this I am usually doing about 1 mile per 1% of battery. So I may have 60% battery and the GOM (guess-o-meter) says 75 miles of range remaining but that could because I just did a lot of regen down a hill. It will eventually even out to show around 60 miles. So with very conservative driving you can expect to get around 1 mile per percent of battery. Its a good measure to follow. If you hot boy it and use the HVAC then all bets are off.

If you plan to use public chargers a lot then sign up for accounts and order their RFID cards to activate the chargers. We have a bunch of Sema Connect chargers at Costco and the only way to activate them is to either have their RFID card or call the phone number.

Get the PlugShare app. Be sure to fill in your details and have it filter to just show J1772 type chargers. Also make sure it shows restricted chargers. Its a bit of a gray area on this but good to know where they are. For example there are 22 chargers half a mile from my house at a medical building. Someone posted the special code needed to activate the chargers on PlugShare. I don't use these chargers often but when I do its only on the weekends or late after hours if I really need it. At that time there are no other cars so I am not taking up a charger from an employee of the medical building.

So look at what charging companies are used in your area via PlugShare and sign up for those. Here are the most common.

Charge Point - I really like these guys are they are very Silicon Valley and it shows with their app. Very slick and easy to use. Usually cheap per kWh pricing too. They do want to keep a balance on your account which I am not a fan of. The owner of the charger (like a retail space) sets the cost. Usually per kWh but can also do per hour. Get an account and order one of their RFID cards.

Blink - They seem to be slowly dying a slow death. They charge a bit high (in my opinion) per kWh to charge. Get one of their RFID cards.

EVGo - They mostly do DC Fast Chargers but do offer some J1772 chargers. They also have a bunch of their chargers for free at the local mall. EVGo charges by the minute which I am not a fan of. Get one of their RFID cards

Electrify America - This company seems to be going directly after Tesla Superchargers with how many stations they are putting in. Their focus is mainly DCFC but they sometimes have at least one J1772 chargers. Like EVGo they also charge by the minute. You can order an RFID cards from them too. They also have two member plans. free and 4 bucks a month. I believe that 4 bucks can go towards charging.

Sema Connect - The Sema app is utter garbage. They have many of their chargers missing from their app and website. Can only activate via a phone call or from RFID card.

I keep all my RFID cards in the little net pocket to the right of the shifter console.

The charger needs to be active before you plug in or else the car will give you an error. Its whats called the "goal post" error where one light on each end lights up. If that happens just unplug, activate the charger and plug back in.

One funny thing I ran into the other day. The charge door locks when you lock the car. I didn't know this and couldn't figure out why my charge door was stuck shut.
 

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So far I've only used Chargepoint because my work building has chargepoint stations installed. I've also used other chargepoint stations since then, but only what's available to the general public. I've taken the time to scope out strategic chargepoint locations that are inexpensive. I tried the plugshare app, but it just didn't look like their database is up to date.
 

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So far I've only used Chargepoint because my work building has chargepoint stations installed. I've also used other chargepoint stations since then, but only what's available to the general public. I've taken the time to scope out strategic chargepoint locations that are inexpensive. I tried the plugshare app, but it just didn't look like their database is up to date.
The PlugShare app database is entirely user generated. I've added a charging location and updated info on many others. What area do you live in rucallingmefiat?
 

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Have you checked PlugShare recently? The beach cities aren't covered the best with chargers but it does seem that Manhattan Beach has a fair amount of chargers. The mall there has some free ones. Irvine also seems to have a lot of chargers. Check it out again if you haven't recently. Its at least good to help get you started so you don't have to use a bunch of different apps to find chargers. If you find any errors you can update the PlugShare location. I've also reported a few issues. For example there is one location that is on the map twice but just about 100 feet apart. I reported that to PlugShare and they fixed it in about 24 hours. They are very responsive. Just about everything on a location can be user edited.
 

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Welcome to the madness! Great little EV cars and there’s strength in numbers for those of us afflicted.

Parking is truly a marvel and the small profile and Zippy performance is the closest thing to high-powered motorcycles that I’ve ever driven on four wheels.

Practically instant acceleration. At the expense of tire rubber of course, LOL….

Percentage meter is by far more useful to me for estimating driving range. At least I know that if I kill HVAC, glue my eyes to the kWatt meter and “baby” everything to the extreme (45psi tires) I can travel about 1 mile per 1% remaining charge.

But our normal no worry consumption fluctuates between 0.5-0.8 mile per 1% remaining charge.

Around San Diego we have free chargers by VoltaCharging in shopping centers. They’re very popular and rarely empty but quite a nice score when they’re available nearby the door to the grocery store.

Enjoy the ride!
 

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My friend's workplace Chargepoints required reset every time before plugging in, unless a Fiat was the last car using it. They had reset buttons, but most require re-inserting the plug in the holder to reset.

With Volta, the only app I've found that shows which chargers are available or being used is the Volta app itself.

I once pulled up to a Volta just as someone was unplugging. I plugged in & after about a minute it stopped, with a fault light. It's signage said it self-reset in 15 minutes, but a 2nd charger there had opened up so I used it. Waiting while I charged, the 1st charger reset, a Tesla plugged in, & it failed again. It reset again, a Leaf plugged in & it failed again. It reset again, a Bolt plugged in & it worked. Takeaway: If you're in dire need, don't give up. In fact if you're really desperate it couldn't hurt to reboot the CAR (12V disconnect).

On that note, I once was at that same problematic Volta & it failed, but this time I just drove home. My oldest local charger was on my way, so I stopped there & it wouldn't work either, which made me think maybe my car was the problem. I plugged in the stock chargecord & it worked fine, after which both of the above chargers also worked fine. This makes me think that maybe the stock charger "fixed" my car. I could be wrong, but it's one more thing that can't hurt to try.

Some charging stations (& even just regular parking lots) have 120V outlets. I have sometimes used those to gain a bit while waiting for a L2 to open up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Do you guys think it’s worth investing in a Tesla destination charger adaptor? I feel kinda weird buy plugging in, but all the Tesla I see plug into the J1772 with their adaptors everywhere. Also it’s a precaution incase that’s the only thing that’s near me and I’m desperate
 

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Do you guys think it’s worth investing in a Tesla destination charger adaptor? I feel kinda weird buy plugging in, but all the Tesla I see plug into the J1772 with their adaptors everywhere. Also it’s a precaution incase that’s the only thing that’s near me and I’m desperate
Looks like those adapters are about 200 bucks. I personally wouldn't spend the money on one because I don't think I would ever need it. Having the option and flexibility is nice however.
 

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Do you guys think it’s worth investing in a Tesla destination charger adaptor?
There is a discussion about it in the Facebook 500e group. The adapter doesn't work at supercharger locations. It only works at locations such as hotels and Tesla owners homes that have a charger with Tesla style connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice! I already requested to join the face book group. I wanted to ask about the fast level 3 charging mod I’ve been reading in online forum posts. I’m actually curious how the car charges. I learned a lot form, The evolving world YouTube channel, kudos to this guy for providing a tear down of the car. Even though the range is 80 ish miles DC fast charging would make this car my primary tbh.
 
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