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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been super busy. Havent driven car much, because my new business requires me to drive my truck.

So I drove the car once last week. Well apparently I left in in the garage with it on for over a week. Doh!

She's dead. Thought it was just the 12v at first. Nope.
0%
Goal posts come on and service charging system.

Tried to pull the fuse under rear seat. No luck.
Reading only 5.6 volts from the HV bat.

Any help would be appreciated, before I explore other options with my $9,000 paper weight
 

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I'll be thinking about it, but in the mean time:

This won't help YOU now, but could indicate the cause: Were all software updates done? (particularly U69, if applicable)
 

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Do the contactors "clunk" when you plug in or open the left door?

Is the car's own charge timer deactivated?

The key turns "acc" mode on fine, but it won't start, right? (12.x volts at starter battery terminals)

Do you have OBD?

Suggestion from The Twilight Zone: Humidity sensor permanently unplugged?
 

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Thinking more, U69 would only make a difference if it was 12V items draining the power, like if you also left your headlights or rear defog on.

U69 wouldn't likely stop the A/C compressor. But if that was switched off, I'm trying to see how it could drain the battery so much, since it has enough available power to run my entire apartment unit for 10 days.
 

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I'll get back to "no clunk" in a minute...

Other users have intetionally run the car past 0% on the gauge (at which point many items power down), to 0.00% on OBD, at which point the motor shuts itself off, leaving 3.1 volts PER CELL in the HV battery pack of 97 cells in series (times 3.1 = 300V)
 

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No clunk means the contactors are failing to connect the HV battery pack to the power electronics, including the motor controller/inverter and the onboard charger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maybe it is stuck in some fail safe mode. But no idea how to reset. Also says it it not seeing plug.
 

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By FAR the most common reason for contactor action failure is low starter battery voltage. Please clarify how you checked the 12V, & where exactly you measured 5.6V.
 

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Without contactor clunk OBD won't work. I assume you reset the charger (unplug/plug or breaker cycle).

If the cars charge timer has been reset to a default setting that tells it not to charge, they might not clunk, at least on plug-in, if not also on the left door*. With 12.x volts at the terminals & the key in "acc" you should be able to check that the timer is deactivated.

*Just yesterday I suddenly wondered why they clunk with the left door! I can think of no reason. You can get in the right without clunking them & the car still starts & runs fine.

As for reset from "failsafe", extended 12V disconnect (30 hours) has reset others' stubborn error codes. Extended HV disconnect might also work, & I'd be tempted to do that anyway just in case you have bricked a few cells (to protect the rest from further damage).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just put the trickle charger on the new 12v battery. Ill let it charge overnight and try again tomorrow.
 

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Since you didn't clarify, & now you're taking steps for 12V resurection, I'm very curious what made you write "Nope." after "Thought it was just the 12v"

Maybe that's just because it's "new", but of course even a new 12V will be dead after a week of running rear defog or seat heat or even just headlights or fan.

If you have a jumpstarter from when your 12V was old, or cables to hook to your truck, or can borrow either of those options, you could try that now without waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Since you didn't clarify, & now you're taking steps for 12V resurection, I'm very curious what made you write "Nope." after "Thought it was just the 12v"
Before all this happened, I could read 360v under the hood at the test points. Now it only reads 5.6v.
But now that I think the contactor is not closing, that could be why voltage is low.
 

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There you go. Problem solved: Dead 12V. (whew: $60, not $6,000)

VERY dead. 10.5V is considered "0%" state of charge, so it was really bad even when it was 5.6V before you understandably kept working on it.

IF this recently-new 12V starter battery can be resurected, it probably took a pretty big hit for current total capacity (don't expect it to last parked unplugged for a month now) AND for longevity (don't expect it to last 5 years now).
 

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You said the original 12 volt battery only read 1.9 volts. You previously mentioned putting the new 12 volt battery on charge. I assume the new 12 volt is what was in the car when this happened, or did you just get it? If it was in the car when this happened, what voltage did that battery read that prompted you to put it on charge?
 

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Good question.

I was assuming it was the 5.6V reading at the HV terminals, where without the contacts closed, the only voltage source would be the starter battery.

Suggested new subject line for Watt_Up to edit after final confirmation: "Killed My 12V Battery"
 

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Good question.

I was assuming it was the 5.6V reading at the HV terminals, where without the contacts closed, the only voltage source would be the starter battery.

Suggested new subject line for Watt_Up to edit after final confirmation: "Killed My 12V Battery"
Yeah, hopefully that is the case and just charging the 12 volt will bring the car back to life. . .
 
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