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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Making a right hand turn at a stop sign these lights all came on (RBS), (ESC), (ABS), and then the brake pedal started fluttering. I was able to keep driving until I got to my destination, but then when I tried to stop I hear this grinding noise either coming from beneath the brake pedal or from the bottom of the car or near the wheel but I wasn't sure exactly.

I contacted a repair service personnel in regards to the issue and he suggested that it was the wheel sensor that could have gone bad which is causing the accumulator and hydraulic module to flutter.

I decided to order 4 new speed sensors because I didn't know which one was bad because I didn't have a scanner or code reader to tell me. I replaced all 4 speed sensors but still the error codes didn't disappear. I decided to drive it to work with the lights still on and noticed the Mile Range was dropping faster than usual and I still had plenty of battery power left. The Mile Range dropped from 65 to 27 Miles with in a 5 mile range and the battery meter was at 80% and dropped to 70% so I still had plenty of battery life. Once it reached the 27 mile range I suddenly felt a pop like a hydraulic actuator activated under my brake pedal. The car then slowed down and the "low power mode" with the red turtle displayed on the dash and the "Service Propulsion System" error came on. After the pop the car also went into Neutral Automatically and the only thing I was able to do was put it in Park. I could no longer place the car back in Drive or Reverse, basically the car was undriveable. I decided to do a hard reset on the computer by disconnecting the main battery hoping I can trick the computer into resetting everything. I disconnected the battery leads for about 5 minutes reconnected them and all the errors and lights remained nothing changed as far as the error lights, but by doing that I was able to drive the car down the street and before I was able to get the car on the driveway the same errors popped up and the car died again. I had to disconnect the battery roughly two to three more times before I was able to get the car to go into reverse and into the garage.

I searched online for more things to change an unplug and the only thing I was able to do was disconnect the humidity sensor inside the car but that didn't make the car drivable. I decided to replace the main battery to se if that could be the culprit but nothing changed with the new battery.

My next step is to order an OBD2 scanner like the Witech or MultiECUscan so I can retrieve any error codes triggered. I have also ordered a new brake light switch to see if that might fix the issue as well, but I have a feeling this might be a bigger problem than the switch. If you can help remediate the problem please let me know how I can go about fixing this issue. Thank you
 

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What ETS said above. To reiterate, how old was your 12v battery before you replaced it? Try the key on, key off five times, take the key out each time and wait 5 minutes before reinserting it. Five times. Then, try the alfaobd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What ETS said above. To reiterate, how old was your 12v battery before you replaced it? Try the key on, key off five times, take the key out each time and wait 5 minutes before reinserting it. Five times. Then, try the alfaobd.
The 12V battery was a year old before I replaced it. I will try the key on key off to see if that helps. I tried disconnecting the 350V fuse from the HV under the back seat as well and that didn’t clear any errors either. Appreciate the feedback If this doesn’t help I’ll try the alfaobd.
 

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Some users have reported that when 5 key cycles doesn't work, 10 cycles sometimes does. One error I read about says that without OBD it doesn't clear until the key is cycled FIFTY times!

Note that there are FOUR different sequences to try for the HV fuse disconnect. At least 1 user reported that 1 sequence didn't work but a different one did, so you might want to try all 4, but stop at #2 or 3 if one of them fixes it.
 

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Making a right hand turn at a stop sign these lights all came on (RBS), (ESC), (ABS), and then the brake pedal started fluttering. I was able to keep driving until I got to my destination, but then when I tried to stop I hear this grinding noise either coming from beneath the brake pedal or from the bottom of the car or near the wheel but I wasn't sure exactly.

I contacted a repair service personnel in regards to the issue and he suggested that it was the wheel sensor that could have gone bad which is causing the accumulator and hydraulic module to flutter.

I decided to order 4 new speed sensors because I didn't know which one was bad because I didn't have a scanner or code reader to tell me. I replaced all 4 speed sensors but still the error codes didn't disappear. I decided to drive it to work with the lights still on and noticed the Mile Range was dropping faster than usual and I still had plenty of battery power left. The Mile Range dropped from 65 to 27 Miles with in a 5 mile range and the battery meter was at 80% and dropped to 70% so I still had plenty of battery life. Once it reached the 27 mile range I suddenly felt a pop like a hydraulic actuator activated under my brake pedal. The car then slowed down and the "low power mode" with the red turtle displayed on the dash and the "Service Propulsion System" error came on. After the pop the car also went into Neutral Automatically and the only thing I was able to do was put it in Park. I could no longer place the car back in Drive or Reverse, basically the car was undriveable. I decided to do a hard reset on the computer by disconnecting the main battery hoping I can trick the computer into resetting everything. I disconnected the battery leads for about 5 minutes reconnected them and all the errors and lights remained nothing changed as far as the error lights, but by doing that I was able to drive the car down the street and before I was able to get the car on the driveway the same errors popped up and the car died again. I had to disconnect the battery roughly two to three more times before I was able to get the car to go into reverse and into the garage.

I searched online for more things to change an unplug and the only thing I was able to do was disconnect the humidity sensor inside the car but that didn't make the car drivable. I decided to replace the main battery to se if that could be the culprit but nothing changed with the new battery.

My next step is to order an OBD2 scanner like the Witech or MultiECUscan so I can retrieve any error codes triggered. I have also ordered a new brake light switch to see if that might fix the issue as well, but I have a feeling this might be a bigger problem than the switch. If you can help remediate the problem please let me know how I can go about fixing this issue. Thank you
Hi Orange Panda 500e,
We're sorry to hear you're experiencing this. We would suggest having your vehicle diagnosed by your local dealer, as they are in the best position to assist. If additional assistance is needed, feel free to send us a private message.

Sarah
Fiat Cares
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Some users have reported that when 5 key cycles doesn't work, 10 cycles sometimes does. One error I read about says that without OBD it doesn't clear until the key is cycled FIFTY times!

Note that there are FOUR different sequences to try for the HV fuse disconnect. At least 1 user reported that 1 sequence didn't work but a different one did, so you might want to try all 4, but stop at #2 or 3 if one of them fixes it.
I tried the key on key off 10 times and that didn’t do anything, and I don’t think I will do the fifty times without attempting to break my ignition and steering column. This is the most ridiculous process of clearing error codes on any make vehicle I have ever encountered. “Not implying anything towards you and thank you for the information the way, but I’m implying this towards FIAT and CHRYSLER themselves that can’t allow any universal scanner to be used on their vehicles”.

The problem is not that I want to clear the error codes the problem is the car won’t let me place it in drive. Codes were cleared at one point after removing the 12v battery but when I placed it in drive after clearing the codes the error pops right back up and I can no longer drive the vehicle. The red turtle and low power mode comes on and the vehicle is immobile. I might be able to get down the street before the all the errors come on and stops the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Orange Panda 500e,
We're sorry to hear you're experiencing this. We would suggest having your vehicle diagnosed by your local dealer, as they are in the best position to assist. If additional assistance is needed, feel free to send us a private message.

Sarah
Fiat Cares
Hi Sarah with the vehicle acting the way it is I might have to take it in if I can’t find another solution. Thank you
 

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Ya, I didn't expect anyone to DO 50 key cycles, except maybe in an emergency. It was just mentioned in the context of an erroneous error that will eventually clear itself in a few weeks if you don't have the means to clear it with OBD.

It does seem a bit strange that a wired-to-readout OBD scanner won't work, but a standard $20 wireless one works, & the app is free (or only $50 if your particular situation requires the advanced features).

You kept the humidity sensor unplugged, right? It's useless at best. Mine's been unplugged for 5 years.

I know your 12V battery is only a few days old, but that doesn't guarantee that it's fine. If you have the means, please check the voltage at the terminals after resting a while, preferably overnight. Opening a door to pop the hood takes it out of sleep mode, so you need to wait 5 minutes after that.

Do the contactors clunk when you open the left door, or plug the car in, & will it charge from the stock charge-cord?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ya, I didn't expect anyone to DO 50 key cycles, except maybe in an emergency. It was just mentioned in the context of an erroneous error that will eventually clear itself in a few weeks if you don't have the means to clear it with OBD.

It does seem a bit strange that a wired-to-readout OBD scanner won't work, but a standard $20 wireless one works, & the app is free (or only $50 if your particular situation requires the advanced features).

You kept the humidity sensor unplugged, right? It's useless at best. Mine's been unplugged for 5 years.

I know your 12V battery is only a few days old, but that doesn't guarantee that it's fine. If you have the means, please check the voltage at the terminals after resting a while, preferably overnight. Opening a door to pop the hood takes it out of sleep mode, so you need to wait 5 minutes after that.

Do the contactors clunk when you open the left door, or plug the car in, & will it charge from the stock charge-cord?
Yes, my humidity sensor is unplugged and just dangling there, and I have tested my battery double guessing that as well. The battery tester I have holds the voltage at about 14Volts which is very good.

The contactors do not clunk when I open the driver side door, only when I plug in the charging plug makes the contactors clunk. Charging lights on the dash flashes as each cell charges to 100%, and what's strange is that when the main batteries charges to 100% the range goes up to 111 Mile range until I start the car. Once I start the car the range falls to about 95% or less without ever moving the car from a fully charged state.

I have the Kobra style OBD2 Dongle Scanner on order and should be here on the 18th. I'll give this a try and see if this will help, and if it does I have a feeling it will only clear the error codes temporarily until I attempt to drive the car and then back to square one again.
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While you await your wireless OBD, you've confirmed performing several of the other procedures at the link in post #2 above (or click here) but not all of them. For example 4 different HV disconnect sequences, 36-hour 12V disconnect, & recall check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
While you await your wireless OBD, you've confirmed performing several of the other procedures at the link in post #2 above (or click here) but not all of them. For example 4 different HV disconnect sequences, 36-hour 12V disconnect, & recall check.
Yes….. so the 12v battery has been disconnected for 72 hours hours now. Today I went to connect it back up and everything seemed fine. Went to start the car and no errors, placed the car in drive drove it down the street and around the block stopped at a stop sign and once again all lights came on ABS, RBS, ESC, then a few minutes later the RED TURTLE appeared and the car simply was not drivable. Disconnected the 12V battery again waited for 5 minutes before reconnecting. All errors lights remained accept for the red turtle and I was able to drive it back home again. Nothing changed same issue.
 

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Okay, & I agree: The warnings keep coming back even after you've got them to go off for a while so it seems unlikely that OBD clearing will help.

So what about recalls, & the 4 different HV disconnect/reconnect sequences?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Recalls are all up to date. I tried the reconnect and disconnect of the HV sequence and during the process I wasn’t able to get the car to reconnect back to the main battery like the orange fuse box was blown. I waited a little while tried it again after the 7th attempt I was finally able to get it to connect and was able to charge the car again. I wasn’t going to try it again in case I lose all connectivity to the car and charging capability.
 

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I've heard that the HV "fuse" can be a little difficult to reconnect. That may be why it was originally reported as problematic.

In your situation I think I too would hold off until the OBD arrives if you can. Then IF that doesn't work, maybe try the other HV disconnect sequences, especially now that you're the resident "expert" ;) due to SEVEN reconnections to get it to work.

You will have tried every single thing that I've ever heard of, which is what I'd want to do before having it towed to a stealership.
 

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Oh! OBD may give you a code like "brake switch failure", which you could then correct on your own. Or it may need an OBD code clear (or 50 key cycles :rolleyes:) after the ABS sensor replacement you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've heard that the HV "fuse" can be a little difficult to reconnect. That may be why it was originally reported as problematic.

In your situation I think I too would hold off until the OBD arrives if you can. Then IF that doesn't work, maybe try the other HV disconnect sequences, especially now that you're the resident "expert" ;) due to SEVEN reconnections to get it to work.

You will have tried every single thing that I've ever heard of, which is what I'd want to do before having it towed to a stealership.
Agreed!!! LOL
 
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