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Used 500e for 52-62 mi round trip commute (80% hwy) more details in my post if you care.

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  • I strongly recommend a level 2 OUTLET to plug in the OEM cord. That fully recharges the US average daily 40 miles in 4 hours, & gives a full charge from DEAD overnight. IF you find that insufficient, THEN buy a level 2 unit. (see link in post #5 above)
Thanks for this info I was not aware of this "cord". I have a question regarding this, I have a 3 prong 30A Dryer plug, can i use those cords? It seems like for my situation i could not. I am asking because we are buying a 2nd electric car, and would love to use your cord solution for my 500e when we get the other car.
 

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Thanks for this info I was not aware of this "cord". I have a question regarding this, I have a 3 prong 30A Dryer plug, can i use those cords? It seems like for my situation i could not. I am asking because we are buying a 2nd electric car, and would love to use your cord solution for my 500e when we get the other car.
I did essentially this at home. I took a heavy duty 12 AWG extension cord, cut off the standard NEMA 5-15P plug and attached a plug to match the 240 volt, 20 amp outlet I have for my air compressor. The original EVSE now receives 240V and the car charges in less than half the time. The 12 AWG extension cord is very important. Lighter, cheaper cords can overheat. Also you are delivering 240V to a NEMA 5-15R receptacle at the end of the cord. This is a potential safety hazard. At my house this connection is locked inside the garage.
 

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I did essentially this at home. I took a heavy duty 12 AWG extension cord, cut off the standard NEMA 5-15P plug and attached a plug to match the 240 volt, 20 amp outlet I have for my air compressor. The original EVSE now receives 240V and the car charges in less than half the time. The 12 AWG extension cord is very important. Lighter, cheaper cords can overheat. Also you are delivering 240V to a NEMA 5-15R receptacle at the end of the cord. This is a potential safety hazard. At my house this connection is locked inside the garage.
The other option (since many use the outlet for thier dryer as the 240v source) is to buy a drier cord that matches their outlet, then buy a nema 5-15 receptical to wire onto it. That make any worry about wire gauge a non issue.

Locking also is very important.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

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Agreed. I needed the extension cord in my situation. If you don't need the extra length a dryer pigtail, electrical box and NEMA 5-15R receptacle is an excellent way to go. The same caution about not connecting 120V-only equipment still applies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So to answer my question I made it close to 80 miles driving 70 mph with cruise control on about 80% of the trip and rest mixed city driving and had AC on the whole time (temps where in the 80s) and I made it home just barely like 1% and 0 miles left. In hindsight I should have tried 60 mph on the Hwy and then 65 and added AC instead of going balls out right away.
 

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That's great, but keep in mind that even with HVAC & seat heat off, battery capacity drops with temperature.

I didn't really believe it could make so much difference until I got a free phone app called AccuBattery that monitors voltage. I put my phone in the freezer & voltage plummeted, but bounced right back after warming it in my pocket.

So when the temps drop you still might need one or more of the cold-weather "tricks" on line 19 here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...LG4-ZF1XLgaF7QabVpbQtljXeug/edit?usp=drivesdk
 
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