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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So, my Tire Pressure Monitor warning came on the other day. Stayed on, won't go out, just isn't prudent. It's also not prudent for me to spend a bunch of money fixing a thing I didn't want in the first place (I visually check my tires about every other day, I check the air pressure at least once a week, and when I get a flat on the road...I know what it feels like.)
The symptoms are - the message in the EVIC (tire pressure monitoring unavailable)
When I try to read the pressures, they all work, except the RR. I get a "--"

So it seems that the tire pressure monitoring IS ACTUALLY available...it's just not reading the RR pressure sensor
Does this mean I simply have a bad sensor (shot battery) ?

If that's the case, then replacing the sensor(s) with the appropriate sensor/sending unit should fix my issue, I'm guessing

So, what if I buy a new sensors and install them myself?

My big plan is to buy a fairly inexpensive bead breaker (shown below for $35), which in reality - I only intend to ever use once (ok, 4 times), pull the offending wheel, let the air out of the tire, break the outside facing bead, squish the tire down far enough to get to the air valve, TMPS doohicky, replace it, refill the tire, and slap that baby back on the car. Viola!

Right? Right? Bueller? Bueller?

Someone shoot holes in my theory before I buy the bead breaker!

Or not!
 

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Hey guys,

So, my Tire Pressure Monitor warning came on the other day. Stayed on, won't go out, just isn't prudent. It's also not prudent for me to spend a bunch of money fixing a thing I didn't want in the first place (I visually check my tires about every other day, I check the air pressure at least once a week, and when I get a flat on the road...I know what it feels like.)
The symptoms are - the message in the EVIC (tire pressure monitoring unavailable)
When I try to read the pressures, they all work, except the RR. I get a "--"

So it seems that the tire pressure monitoring IS ACTUALLY available...it's just not reading the RR pressure sensor
Does this mean I simply have a bad sensor (shot battery) ?

If that's the case, then replacing the sensor(s) with the appropriate sensor/sending unit should fix my issue, I'm guessing

So, what if I buy a new sensors and install them myself?

My big plan is to buy a fairly inexpensive bead breaker (shown below for $35), which in reality - I only intend to ever use once (ok, 4 times), pull the offending wheel, let the air out of the tire, break the outside facing bead, squish the tire down far enough to get to the air valve, TMPS doohicky, replace it, refill the tire, and slap that baby back on the car. Viola!

Right? Right? Bueller? Bueller?

Someone shoot holes in my theory before I buy the bead breaker!

Or not!
I'm having the exact same problem I have not been able fix it, I check tire pressures they are all within 1 lb of correct pressure I am going to over inflate them to see if that changes anything.
 

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You are correct. 1 defective sensor posts that message. Replaced 2 so far on wife’s 2012 Sport.
Air our, break bead, hold down sidewall, replace sensor, refill air and put back on car.
drive a few miles and system updates new sensor ID.
better than buying and using TPMS tool I have for other vehicles.
Go for it, Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You are correct. 1 defective sensor posts that message. Replaced 2 so far on wife’s 2012 Sport.
Air our, break bead, hold down sidewall, replace sensor, refill air and put back on car.
drive a few miles and system updates new sensor ID.
better than buying and using TPMS tool I have for other vehicles.
Go for it, Good Luck.
Thanks Ferret,

Where'd you buy your sensors ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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You do realize that it’s something like $15 for a Walmart to break the bead, put in the new sensor and rebalance as necessary for a standalone wheel, right? I need to change out a sensor and plan to just do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did not realize that Bill. Considering the cost of the bead breaker is almost $40...it would definitely be worth considering. Let me know how it goes with yours.
 

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I did not realize that Bill. Considering the cost of the bead breaker is almost $40...it would definitely be worth considering. Let me know how it goes with yours.
I ended up going at a bad time and they couldn't fit me in. A local tire shop was nice enough to do it for free though, and my car is happy now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE! OK, I ordered the sensors that Ferret recommended, off Amazon. They came in before Christmas. Today, the bead breaker thingy came in. Funny, I already had the *** of the Hooptie up on the floor jack, messing with the exhaust, which had a clunk.
So, once the clunk was fixed, I got all the stuff together to try out the new bead breaker.

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8735FD46-87D2-4D02-B803-373FB80D1BB2_1_105_c.jpeg


After pulling the valve stem core, I hooked the bead breaker on the wheel, worked it just a little, and it BROKE THE BEAD LOOSE! It was easy.
The harder part was getting the old unit out without dropping it into the tire because: Well THAT funks up the balance, don't it?
Pulled the new TPM through the hole after soaping it up, pulled the valve core out of that one, soaped up the bead/rim a bit, and filled it with air from the portable compressor I had. No issues there.
Once it was all back on the car, I took it for a drive and the light went out at exactly 2.7 miles (YMMV)

Viola!

Thanks to all who assisted with their sage advice!

Rob
 
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