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I have recently gotten a service the charging system on my dash. I can't charge. My EVSE Recognizes the car being plugged in but the car won't let the EVSE turn on the juice. I had recently noticed that the J1772 plug was getting hot sometimes and eventually got that burnt electrical smell. One pin burnt on that as well as the inlet plug on the car. To remedy the situation I installed an aftermarket inlet and spliced it into the existing cable which I found if you were to replace with an OEM would be the entire length of the vehicle. I opted to splice one in instead. The one I spliced in is rated for 70 amps. I noticed that the original is pretty cheap and has no insulation on the back side of the plug like most have. So anyway, I matched all the wires to the existing plug and when I plugged in my EVSE saw I was plugged in but the car would not charge and threw up another service the charging system. Im at my wits end and I have tried a different EVSE in town. That is where we noticed that the charger was no longer charging the vehicle. Mine does not work nor does the one in town so it leads me to either the charger itself or the cable end that plugs into the charger. I like my new aftermarket inlet socket so that must stay. Any solutions I'll take any. I'd even try out another charger if needed. Could be the plug on the far end is toasted too. Could be the whole charger on board is toasted. I don't want to take it to the dealer.

Help
Pete :)
 

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Did you ever get this resolved? I am having a similar issue as my 2013 will no longer charge. I cleared the service codes by unplugging the 12v battery and charging it. I plug it into my 240 (which I have done hundreds of times in the past), I hear the charger click, and then nothing. Car won’t accept the handshake. Charger then tries again …no charge. No goalposts now, just not charging.
 

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500e onboard charge timers can reset to "active" if the 12V is disconnected, so I'd check that first.

If the 12V ever needs a charge during normal use it's likely worn out. It's charged whenever the key is on, AND when the car is charging. That's an extra hour or more of 12V charging, for every hour driven, which also means less time sitting uncharged for it to go low before you start it again! If it goes low even with all that charging, it usually just needs replacement.

The 500e nearly never gives any warning of 12V failure*, & if that happens while the humidity sensor is connected**, it can generate fake error codes that prevent charging or driving until the sensor is left unplugged prior to clearing the codes, which a 12V disconnect doesn't always accomplish without also using a $17 eBay Konnwei KW 902 & free AlfaOBD "demo" app. Click to enlarge:
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You'd want to be sure to look carefully for onscreen fineprint because some codes will only clear with special key positions like "stop", "mar", or "avv":
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A 30-hour 12V disconnect may be required before that works, with a 5-minute HV disconnect done prior to 12V reconnect:
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Full-size pic below, since it's SO easy to get wrong, but pretty simple once you know the trick at the right:
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* So it's good to have a $26 Bluetooth alarm such as a "BM2", available at Amazon, eBay, Walmart.com...:
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**
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Just right of rearview mirror, middle fingers in both openings, pull perpendicular to glass, ROUND toothpick to wedge open the black socket, pull out purple plug, tuck in, cover hooks on left & snaps up on right. I left mine unplugged in 2015 because it made my VERY expensive, power-robbing A/C compressor activate prematurely, & also deactivated recirculate.
 

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Thank you for all of the info above ETS! I just received that gizmo from EBay today so I will have to try it out in the next couple of days. I unplugged the12V battery a couple of days ago and hopefully that will get my 30 hour reset. Do I get that AlfaOBD demo app on the app store? Haven't checked anything yet but will give it a good try. Again, thank you!
 

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Check AlfaOBD.com It's not available for Apple devices, so if that's all you have, maybe ask your friends if they have an old Android they haven't got around to recycling yet, or borrow a Windows laptop. Worst-case scenario you can get an Android phone online for about $25.

It's worth a bit of effort & cost because the $50 lifetime-membership version of the app is the only thing I know of that will fix the totally random contactor disabling glitch that can suddenly prevent driving or charging. If that's what you have, here's how to fix it after connecting as shown above:
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Check AlfaOBD.com It's not available for Apple devices, so if that's all you have, maybe ask your friends if they have an old Android they haven't got around to recycling yet, or borrow a Windows laptop. Worst-case scenario you can get an Android phone online for about $25.

It's worth a bit of effort & cost because the $50 lifetime-membership version of the app is the only thing I know of that will fix the totally random contactor disabling glitch that can suddenly prevent driving or charging. If that's what you have, here's how to fix it after connecting as shown above:
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Thanks! I received all of the hardware and followed all of the steps that you outlined...so much good information in there. I took the extra step of replacing the 12V battery too. Checked, cleaned and used a tiny bit of electrical grease on the charging contacts. Checked my home charger (it works fine with my other electric car). Disconnected the humidity sensor, cleared all codes with that cool OBD connector (and your helpful instructions), checked the charge timers...the works. Disconnected that big plug under the seat, then hooked it back up. Still will not accept a charge. I get the handshake "clunks" , hear the charger click...and then nothing. It all started after a little rain. No visible leaks, but it certainly will not accept that charge. You have been a real help ETS...thank you. Any more ideas?
 

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...followed all of the steps that you outlined...
Unfortunately I listed them sort of hodge-podge instead of in sequence. It seems best to unplug the sensor when it's asleep, before disconnecting the 12V. & it seems best to have the 12V & HV both disconnected simultaneously at some point. In case those didn't happen during your procedure, I'd give it one more try as follows:

1) With the key out, wait 2 minutes with just the left door open, without opening or closing the hatch or either door, or plugging the car in.

2) Then make sure the humidity sensor has been left unplugged (& leave it unplugged for ever).

3) Then disconnect the 12V, after which it's fine to open or close any door or hatch*, & lock/unlock with the key in the door. *Hatch won't open without 12V.

4) Wait 30+ hours, & before reconnecting the 12V, disconnect the HV 5+ minutes (or just disconnect it right after disconnecting the 12V), then reconnect the HV, making SURE the handle is FULLY vertical 1st, then reconnect the 12V.

5) Then with the Fiat turned on (to bypass timers), plug into a cord that works with another car, & if that doesn't work, try the OEM cord & if that doesn't work, check OBD for faults, & if any won't clear, post screenshots that show their description, & consider uploading the logs for us to analyze (auto-saved in the app's device).
 

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Please confirm if charging is the only issue. In other words, it will go into D, right?
Thanks! The car drives just fine. It only has 13% battery left so if I can’t get it to charge, then I’m probably going to have to pay for a flatbed to get it to the dealer that’s 25 miles away…and I do not have any confidence in them having a fix. Again, thank you for your time and information…I read your sequence and will go through it again later today to see if I missed something the first time.
 

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5) Then with the Fiat turned on (to bypass timers), plug into a cord that works with another car, & if that doesn't work, try the OEM cord & if that doesn't work, check OBD for faults, & if any won't clear, post screenshots that show their description, & consider uploading the logs for us to analyze (auto-saved in the app's device).
@silversport I would suggest that you follow the above procedure to the letter.

It's likely that we're are Occam's Razor here. If the car drives fine but doesn't charge with multiple working EVSE units, then the on board charger has failed.

ga2500ev
 

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Still will not accept a charge... It all started after a little rain.
Ya, when I read this I remembered someone else had an OBC failure caused by being plugged in during a nearby thunderstorm.*

If the car drives fine but doesn't charge with multiple working EVSE units, then the on board charger has failed.
Probably, but it could just be yet another glitch to add to the 500e's long list. So far most glitches also prevent driving, but at least 3 of us on this forum have had multiple plugs fail while the car drove fine, & then the OEM plug worked, after which the multiple other plugs did too.

That's why I'd repeat the glitch-clearing steps I posted in #9 above, in sequence, & then look in OBD & its logs for any OBCM fault codes.
 

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* @DD500E wrote: "84k miles on my 2013... I replaced the onboard charging module last week after it failed... right after a lightning storm that had some very nearby strikes"


Note that this is in addition to the one I mentioned in post #12, which seemed to have simply worn out after I think something like 89k miles.
 

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I wonder how many miles it has, since the only one I recall needing a new onboard charger had about 90k miles.
It has just over 80K. Love my car and just started the e0 hour process again. Been busy for the last couple of days…one of them being at the media days for the LA auto show where I saw this being unveiled for the US (sorry, probably wrong thread and off topic, but I needed some good 500e news in here). I will follow up in a day or so. Thank you all for the input!
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OK...back to reality. Tried all things in all the right order that ETS described. Tried my (proved to be working) charger. Tried the charger that came with the car. All the same result and it did not charge. To recap, I changed the 12V, cleared the error codes, unplugged the humidity sensor, disconnected that massive plug under the seat...all in the ETS order. The display is reading " Service charging system" again and I do not see any new error codesshowing up on the AlfaOBD...I think it should, right? Also, when I got the OBD tester (on 11/11) , this is what it showed before clearing the error:

Reading faults for: Battery Pack Control Module (BPCM)
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Faults reported:

11/11/2022 9:34:34 AM
Faults found.
U11C5

Not sure if that is helpful, but I have read above that I might need to replace my onboard charging module. Is that correct? If so, is there a good place to get one? Is this a dealer thing or can I do it (I am fairly mechanical). Once again, grateful for the help so far and for all of the knowledge given so freely...thank you!
 

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If AlfaOBD doesn't say something like "obcm", did you select that module from the Battery Management list before checking codes?...:
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You tried to clear that error code, carefully following any onscreen key position instructions, right?

If so, since it drives but won't charge, you might actually need a replacement OBC.

I think it's a plug&play module, which would mean you could get one from a wrecked car with low miles.
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It's connected to the dangerous 400 direct current volts of the main drive battery pack, so you need to follow all the HV disconnect precautions in the service tech training manual (click here).

It's water cooled, so you'd need to drain the "power electronics" cooling system which is separate from the battery cooling system, & there's a special coolant bleeding process in AlfaOBD that's required after refilling.
 
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