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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
But more important, to reduce the chances of needing to call for assistance, with the car asleep, leave the humidity sensor unplugged & then install the wingnut. Ideally in that order because it's hard to keep the battery connected while swapping the plain nut for the wingnut, & if the sensor is connected when it loses 12V power it's more likely to cause an issue.

First though, to calculate home charging cost now, you might want to take a pic of your trip gauges first, since they get zeroed out if you lose 12V power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
calculations...I've been dreading
Well you could just post your trip gauge's mi/kWh reading & your electric bill's total dollars & total kWh. Then we can do the math for you.

More important than that though, & maybe easier for you is what I think is the final step of preparation: Check your VIN at Mopar.com "recalls", for "campaign" U69.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I don't know what you mean by "clean". It can have all the recalls done & still kill the HV battery that costs $6,000 even for a WARRANTY replacement (long story).

U69 is not technically a "recall" since it is "only" dangerous to the car, not to its occupants. If U69 is incomplete, NHTSA doesn't even show it. You have to go to Mopar.com at the bottom under "Resources" click "Recalls", enter your VIN & then find the tab for "Campaigns" & make sure it shows U69 complete.
 

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Well you could just post your trip gauge's mi/kWh reading & your electric bill's total dollars & total kWh. Then we can do the math for you.

More important than that though, & maybe easier for you is what I think is the final step of preparation: Check your VIN at Mopar.com "recalls", for "campaign" U69.
Trip gauge shows mpge. Is there a way to change this?
Speedometer Gauge Plant Vehicle Amber
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Then it's under something like "units".

Meanwhile, 141.6 MPGe is 4.2 mi/kWh, so you don't really need to change it. However, we all use the latter, so it's a good idea to change it sometime soon.

The extremely important U69 checking instructions are at the bottom of this post: (click here)
 

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Yeah I can't find how to change it. It didn't show me any option for units. I'll just trust you on this one lol

When I looked up the VIN on Mopar there is nothing outstanding and campaigns have been completed. It doesn't show anything else but the one campaign that was completed. No recalls.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Whew! (again) Sept 13, 2018 is U69. It drops down if you click the "up" arrow :rolleyes:.

Remaining Checklist Items:
  • Leave humidity sensor disconnected.
  • Add wingnut to 12V terminal.
  • Confirm you have 2 keys.
  • Get your dad to replace the "residential" grade wall outlet with a "commercial", "industrial", or "hospital" grade outlet. He'll be strongly motivated when he feels how hot the plug gets!
  • Get your dad to adjust the headlights up a bit (click here).
 

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Whew! (again) Sept 13, 2018 is U69. It drops down if you click the "up" arrow :rolleyes:.

Remaining Checklist Items:
  • Confirm you have 2 keys.
  • Get your dad to replace the "residential" grade wall outlet with a "commercial", "industrial", or "hospital" grade outlet. He'll be strongly motivated when he feels how hot the plug gets!
  • Get your dad to adjust the headlights up a bit (click here).
鉁揥e have 2 keys
鉁搕he outlet outside is different than our outlets inside. It might already be industrial...
鉁揑 don't drive at night lol

So I did the calculations and it gave me .079?

Do I multiply that by something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Okay, 2 keys & no night driving. Got it.

& your outlet "might" be industrial, so the house "might" not burn down.

Unless your dad is POSITIVE that the outlet is heavy-duty industrial-strength, I would have him feel the plug, after it's been charging for a little while. It usually gets almost hot enough to melt, & sometimes they even do melt.

Standard residential-grade outlets are not designed for constantly plugging/unplugging a device OR providing SO much power for SO long. It takes as much power as a microwave, but runs for hours instead of minutes, & gets worn out by plugging/unplugging every day if you can't just leave it plugged, in a garage.

If your power bill dollars divided by its kWh, then divided by 0.89, then divided by 4.2 is 0.079 it means it costs you $0.079 per mile to charge. You said you drive about 20 miles per week so that's $1.58 per week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So only 3 things left: Sensor, wingnut, & outlet ($5 part, 5 minute job)

Good idea to add a surge protector if you can, & even with one, try to never have it plugged in if there's a thunderstorm within 10 miles.
 

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The plug outside looks like a metal box. I'll have to take a pic in the morning since it's dark out. It's situated in a garden that is watered regularly so it must be outdoor resistant.

That cost seems very low. If I charge it for 14 hrs would it be .079x14? I attached copies of a recent bill. We do have special rates due to my disability but my mom always complains about how high our bill is.

Tbh it seems quite low for a five bedroom, 3 bath house with a bunch of TV's and pool w/ a running filter. I heard that a Fiat basically consumes as much power as a freezer lol. We have one of those too plus a fridge.

I feel like if I charge the car close to 100 once a week it wouldn't consume to much but I have to provide proof. My parents seem to believe that I consume a ton of energy just by merely existing lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
It's not the box that matters, but rather the holes that the prongs go into. When their metal contacts get worn, it doesn't connect as well, & that creates heat, so the plug &/or outlet melts & shorts the wires. Then it "might" cause a fire at any point on the wires all the way from the circuit breaker panel.

Here's another one:
Automotive lighting Gadget Electronic device Cable Wire
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
if I charge the car close to 100 once a week it wouldn't consume to much but I have to provide proof.
It doesn't matter what % you charge TO. All that matters is the total % you add per week...

Proof of low cost is super easy with that bill you showed me above:
  • 20 miles per week divided by 4.2 miles per kWh (both from the trip gauge*) is 4.76kWh per week.
  • $0.17/kWh (from power bill **) times 4.76kWh/wk is $0.81 per week.


* We'll figure out how to switch the units.
** I didn't ask for this number at the beginning, since some bills like my own don't show it, but that's the number you want to show your dad. If he points out that there's tax, then fine, use the total dollars divided by total kWh.
 
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