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Silicone Piping - Silicone Air Charge Pipe Part 1

8.5K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  afterburn 549  
#1 ·
Hey guys, ordered a silicone elbow for the aircharge pipe. The portion thats like 3" away from the downpipe lol. Anyways did some measurements, ordered a ** 2.5" - 90 deg - 2" ** Diameters. The length is 7 5/16" of each "leg"

There reason its a reducer is because if you look at the picture the stock pipe has a neck 3" outer diameter and 2" inner diameter. We eliminate this boost leak prone neck, and we need an inner diamter measurement for propper fitting.

Hope it fits... the stock tubing is weird (where the charge pipe connects to the intercooler piping) there is a 2.5" nib. Hopefully the silicone piping goes over it... or hopefully I'll have enough meat of clamp the silicone pipe behind it.

** use this for informational purpose until I do the install** I wouldnt want anyone ordering the wrong diameters.
The cost of this 'upgrade' is $37

http://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/me...rchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=R90B-200-250&Category_Code=9DRESQ

and I'll include diagrams of my finding.









 
#2 ·
So the reason for replacing the stock hose is because of your heat concerns over its proximity to the exhaust? Or because the fitment design creates a boost leak at higher levels?
 
#3 · (Edited)
I think it'll be a cleaner install, the intercooler design is great, but the system could use an upgrade. The new piping should be more resistant to heat, and and possible boost leak is a concern. That connection is just unlegit, it's just a 'C' clip that locks the two pipes together through those gaps in the neck. It prevents the pipe from getting off the nib in my illustration. It's been bothering me since I replaced the pipe after uninstalled a Sila concepts BOV. The connection seemed too lopse/flimsy when i put the original parts back :p I don't expect any gains, but the velocity of air may see less turbulence from that transition point by just alone removing that neck. And re-clamping the original hose back on. That whole air charge pipe is the goal but the one side has an odd bend and may take some time to fab on my own. The rest of the tubing shouldnt be too difficult but I may need to take off the bumper and/or other component just to measure ...
 
#4 · (Edited)
sounds like a noteworthy venture... i can see how the tube can potentially leak by having that slip joint on the IC pipe. I think there might be a reason for it though and you might want to investigate this after the silicone pipe install... the IC pipe it connects to stays stationary with the car's body, and the charge pipe on the motor flexes with the torque of the motor.

That slip ring might be there to prevent a twist or binding of the charge hose when the motor articulates fore/aft under full load. Or it's just there to speed up assembly line work... either way I just wanted to point out something to consider. OEM's seldom make parts just for the sake of spending more money, so you might want to check this one out.
 
#8 ·
I never thought about that Zonker, it is a good point. Even though I did say that connection is a piece of work, I dont see a designed 'flex' function happening at that joint. Its just a crap outdated robust for no reason (to my understanding) BUT that dosnt mean I can't try to stick my goPro in there for like 2 minutes and do a launch or 2 :) So I will def keep you posted. thanks for you input :)
 
#11 ·
With my 500T, I saw as high as 16.8 psi on my torque pro app, but typically is is in the 12-13 range most times.
 
#12 ·
I think you're holding out on some performance modifications to the rest of us 500T guys ;P thats cool, I def want to try torque or a diff iphone app. DashCommand is pretty good right now using the KiwiPLXII.

Wish you had a piggyback so we can compare. I just recently adjusted the springload on the wastegate actuator(made the rod shorter). Eliminated my oscilation issue ( not sure if you recall my thread from a while back with my maddness ECU issues) It made the boost smoother ... but without a proper tune I still dont think the car is where is should be. I am just awaiting more info ... apparently we'll be able to have our 500T at Abarth performance levels in a few weeks. I have no other info, just hope lol.
 
#15 ·
The more I think of it, the more I think it's probably there to ease assembly. It's a lot easier to have a line worker push and click the hose in place then to have him/her fit up the hose then torque the hose clamp correctly.
 
#16 · (Edited)
#18 ·
Leaks Bye appropriate size adj rubber plugs (a Good Ace hard wear has most sizes up to 4") (They have a wing nut in the middle to expand them place once in place )
Now drill and tap one of them for a tire valve .
now add the are pressure,, (about 30 ponds) spray soapy water on stuff.......your leaks will instantly appear.
no guess not fuss
just real