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Download the service manual. There should be a link somewhere here on the forum. It's full of wiring diagrams.
 

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Over the summer, I encountered the all too common problem that we've been having with the rear hatch not functioning. After doing a whole lot of digging, the only info I could find was about the wires splitting in the rubber sheath. Great! Now I can get started and have everything fixed in a day.

Here is what I found View attachment 93129

Not too bad. No broken wires just a little water was found in that ?drain tube?; that must be the main issue: moisture causing contact. I sealed everything up and put the hatch back together. BOOM! FIXED!....or so I thought.

A while later, with a few damp days and the car sitting for a week unused, we're back to square one. Well, square -1 because now there is absolutely no function at all....the trunk shall remain closed forever. NOPE! With the help of actually reading a youtube comment, I actually found the release lever. 30 minutes later and everything was fixed. Its super easy, so the steps and pics are below.

This is only a guide if your exterior release button is not functioning but your wiring harness is intact....here we go.

1: GET YOUR HATCH OPEN
Pull off the interior panel. and look for this little bugger:
View attachment 93137
See that tiny metal lever at bottom dead centre? That is you manual trunk release. Brilliant spot in my opinion. Push this down with a screw driver and open your hatch. Tie a string to this and hang it out the hatch every time you close it. fixed.

Kidding of course.

2: TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR FUNCTION.
With your hatch open, close the catch with your finger and unplug the wire harness from the hatch release here:
View attachment 93145
Then, look at the end of the harness like an idiot for a few minutes while trying to remember what you did with you jumper wire; like this:
View attachment 93153
This is the important bit; hold it like that. Exactly like that. If you don't, then the magical electrician in you brain will get upset and take a coffee break. Got it? OK. The left terminal is for the license plate lights and not important at all. The right terminal should be a black wire, and the middle terminal is the lead for the hatch release actuator. Shove your paperclip in those 2 holes( I know you're going to use a paper clip). If your magical electrician is not on break, you should hear little buzz-click sound. look at the catch, is it open? Good, now close the catch again and play with this a few times(its a neat sound). You've also just discovered where your problem is.

3. REMOVE THE SWITCH
Remove the 4 nuts that you saw in the first picture of step 2(they might only be finger tight, as mine were), then while holding the chrome exterior piece(switch assembly), pinch the black pinchy thing in the middle. Done. Now, Step 4.

4. Look at how dirty the back and bottom of the switch assembly are and say "f#$ing gross" before you clean it all up. While doing that, have a look at the connector; it should be super dirty too, and maybe a little corroded.

5. CLEAN YOUR CONTACTS
Scratch the contacts clean with what ever is handy and, gently, bend them down, or up, about 1/2mm. I did this because, as you may notice, the male terminals are a lot smaller than the female terminals(Oops. I guess Italian designers like to have art imitate life). Plug the wiring harness in and push the button.....buzz-click? If it made the noise, you are all done; If it didn't, you'll have to investigate further.

6. INVESTIGATE FURTHER
I don't know. I didn't have to. Please, if you did have to post your steps.
Hey, how did you find the manual trunk release!!! you are a wizard! I live in Quebec (french canadian) and I had searched in all the french and Italian sites for Fiat!!!! (Sorry for my bad english)

thanks again! Merci!
 

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As a Subaru owner for MANY years, and having an ACCESS PANEL for rear hatch opening, I took this pre-emptive strike a few years ago on my wife's 2012 500 Sport.

As shown in the pictures, ordered a 3" black round cover. It DID have a rim on the inside that might fit and hold in a metal hole, but would not in the flimsy Fiat rear cover. I cut that rim OFF and covered it with Velcro HOOKS so it would STICK around the hole made.

109906


Couldn't make the hole any LOWER on the panel, the inside metal of the hatch is there, so I cut it as LOW as I could.
109907


Took a picture of the Latch release ALONE, then using PAINT, I added an arrow and words of where the lever is to PUSH to release. Then double stick tape to the inside of the velcro cover, leaving edges clear to STICK to the panel.
109908


Made a RELEASE tool from a rod from an old closet organizer we were throwing out. Bending a handle on one end and short piece and sanded smooth on the other for the release lever.
109909


Tested all from the inside... and all worked. Then found a place on inside left rear to keep release rod I made and hold in place , once again with a Blue strip of velcro I cut.
109910



Take a Preemptive strike before you are in this position.... something Fiat SHOULD have thought of since they DID give you a manual release lever on the latch,
 

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I've followed your steps but the paperclip between center (with/orange and bblack (ground) did not work on my fiat 500 Abarth 2012. it took me almost a year and I finlly found the problem.

I found this genius Al1Elec on this formum: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discus...39181_ds555650.

I had tryed everything, following wires to BCm, take apart BCm to spot problems, check all fuses... it finally was a corroded switch.
the switch needs to have 1.5kOhms for the BCm to recognize it and send the 12v to the latch. It is a safety thing so that if the is a short during an accindent the hatch does not open by itself.

And this end my adventure with the hatch.. I cannot thank this guy enough and you too PAZZO.

Gianluigi
i have the exact same problem. Hatch wont open with key or button at the back... wierd 5v gonig to it... i tried to bypasss the button and jump the wires still nothing. checked the actualy lock actuator and its working under voltage... what "switch" are you talking about ? how was this issue resolved? also synchronizing using sunroof didnt work ...
 

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Over the summer, I encountered the all too common problem that we've been having with the rear hatch not functioning. After doing a whole lot of digging, the only info I could find was about the wires splitting in the rubber sheath. Great! Now I can get started and have everything fixed in a day.

Here is what I found View attachment 93129

Not too bad. No broken wires just a little water was found in that ?drain tube?; that must be the main issue: moisture causing contact. I sealed everything up and put the hatch back together. BOOM! FIXED!....or so I thought.

A while later, with a few damp days and the car sitting for a week unused, we're back to square one. Well, square -1 because now there is absolutely no function at all....the trunk shall remain closed forever. NOPE! With the help of actually reading a youtube comment, I actually found the release lever. 30 minutes later and everything was fixed. Its super easy, so the steps and pics are below.

This is only a guide if your exterior release button is not functioning but your wiring harness is intact....here we go.

1: GET YOUR HATCH OPEN
Pull off the interior panel. and look for this little bugger:
View attachment 93137
See that tiny metal lever at bottom dead centre? That is you manual trunk release. Brilliant spot in my opinion. Push this down with a screw driver and open your hatch. Tie a string to this and hang it out the hatch every time you close it. fixed.

Kidding of course.

2: TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR FUNCTION.
With your hatch open, close the catch with your finger and unplug the wire harness from the hatch release here:
View attachment 93145
Then, look at the end of the harness like an idiot for a few minutes while trying to remember what you did with you jumper wire; like this:
View attachment 93153
This is the important bit; hold it like that. Exactly like that. If you don't, then the magical electrician in you brain will get upset and take a coffee break. Got it? OK. The left terminal is for the license plate lights and not important at all. The right terminal should be a black wire, and the middle terminal is the lead for the hatch release actuator. Shove your paperclip in those 2 holes( I know you're going to use a paper clip). If your magical electrician is not on break, you should hear little buzz-click sound. look at the catch, is it open? Good, now close the catch again and play with this a few times(its a neat sound). You've also just discovered where your problem is.

3. REMOVE THE SWITCH
Remove the 4 nuts that you saw in the first picture of step 2(they might only be finger tight, as mine were), then while holding the chrome exterior piece(switch assembly), pinch the black pinchy thing in the middle. Done. Now, Step 4.

4. Look at how dirty the back and bottom of the switch assembly are and say "f#$ing gross" before you clean it all up. While doing that, have a look at the connector; it should be super dirty too, and maybe a little corroded.

5. CLEAN YOUR CONTACTS
Scratch the contacts clean with what ever is handy and, gently, bend them down, or up, about 1/2mm. I did this because, as you may notice, the male terminals are a lot smaller than the female terminals(Oops. I guess Italian designers like to have art imitate life). Plug the wiring harness in and push the button.....buzz-click? If it made the noise, you are all done; If it didn't, you'll have to investigate further.

6. INVESTIGATE FURTHER
I don't know. I didn't have to. Please, if you did have to post your steps.
 

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Over the summer, I encountered the all too common problem that we've been having with the rear hatch not functioning. After doing a whole lot of digging, the only info I could find was about the wires splitting in the rubber sheath. Great! Now I can get started and have everything fixed in a day.

Here is what I found View attachment 93129

Not too bad. No broken wires just a little water was found in that ?drain tube?; that must be the main issue: moisture causing contact. I sealed everything up and put the hatch back together. BOOM! FIXED!....or so I thought.

A while later, with a few damp days and the car sitting for a week unused, we're back to square one. Well, square -1 because now there is absolutely no function at all....the trunk shall remain closed forever. NOPE! With the help of actually reading a youtube comment, I actually found the release lever. 30 minutes later and everything was fixed. Its super easy, so the steps and pics are below.

This is only a guide if your exterior release button is not functioning but your wiring harness is intact....here we go.

1: GET YOUR HATCH OPEN
Pull off the interior panel. and look for this little bugger:
View attachment 93137
See that tiny metal lever at bottom dead centre? That is you manual trunk release. Brilliant spot in my opinion. Push this down with a screw driver and open your hatch. Tie a string to this and hang it out the hatch every time you close it. fixed.

Kidding of course.

2: TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR FUNCTION.
With your hatch open, close the catch with your finger and unplug the wire harness from the hatch release here:
View attachment 93145
Then, look at the end of the harness like an idiot for a few minutes while trying to remember what you did with you jumper wire; like this:
View attachment 93153
This is the important bit; hold it like that. Exactly like that. If you don't, then the magical electrician in you brain will get upset and take a coffee break. Got it? OK. The left terminal is for the license plate lights and not important at all. The right terminal should be a black wire, and the middle terminal is the lead for the hatch release actuator. Shove your paperclip in those 2 holes( I know you're going to use a paper clip). If your magical electrician is not on break, you should hear little buzz-click sound. look at the catch, is it open? Good, now close the catch again and play with this a few times(its a neat sound). You've also just discovered where your problem is.

3. REMOVE THE SWITCH
Remove the 4 nuts that you saw in the first picture of step 2(they might only be finger tight, as mine were), then while holding the chrome exterior piece(switch assembly), pinch the black pinchy thing in the middle. Done. Now, Step 4.

4. Look at how dirty the back and bottom of the switch assembly are and say "f#$ing gross" before you clean it all up. While doing that, have a look at the connector; it should be super dirty too, and maybe a little corroded.

5. CLEAN YOUR CONTACTS
Scratch the contacts clean with what ever is handy and, gently, bend them down, or up, about 1/2mm. I did this because, as you may notice, the male terminals are a lot smaller than the female terminals(Oops. I guess Italian designers like to have art imitate life). Plug the wiring harness in and push the button.....buzz-click? If it made the noise, you are all done; If it didn't, you'll have to investigate further.

6. INVESTIGATE FURTHER
I don't know. I didn't have to. Please, if you did have to post your steps.
First of all thanks. I was able to fix the issue. I didn’t need to do the jumper test as I saw contacts needed a good cleaning right away.
Automotive lighting Street light Sky Automotive exterior Vehicle door
Automotive lighting Street light Sky Automotive exterior Vehicle door
Automotive lighting Street light Sky Automotive exterior Vehicle door
Petal Tints and shades Automotive lighting Darkness Carmine
Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Automotive design Bumper Tints and shades
Automotive lighting Street light Sky Automotive exterior Vehicle door
 

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Sorry those are terrible photos. Perhaps take them down and redo?
 

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Hi everyone ! I found this forum while searching the solution for a weird problem. I have a 2012 Fiat 500 convertible and the problem is that the truk opens ONLY when when the key is turned on the MAR position of the ignition switch or with the engine on.
Without the key on, it won't open either manually from the inside door handles or from the remote control keys when I unlock the doors.
Soft top works perfectly. ( I have done the reset ).
Finally I have to mention that depending on the version, when the soft top is fully open the trunk either looks or when you try to open it the soft top retracts. In my case with the egine on, the trunk opens even with the soft top fully open and the soft top doesn't retract.
Car was bought second hand and I don't know any history. The problem was there from the beginning.
Is there a valet setting for safety reasons that I can't find on the menus or do i start digging ? My car electrician has never heard of it. ( He's not specialized in FIAT though )
Any ideas ?
Sorry for my long post, I tried to give any details that I can. Thanks in advance.
 
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