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So I've been casting a wider and wider circle, and it seems that Roberts Fiat in Meriden, CT does service the cars. They're also buying 500e's in CA and reselling them at their dealership. Just thought I'd throw that out there in case there's somebody up that way looking for service, I can save them the trouble of calling around. Don't really think that will work for me, though, it's 100 miles away.
What I am surprised by, though, is that it's already been a good number of years and there's no cottage industry of independent repair shops that you can take your car to. Guess it's because most of the BEV's are Tesla's and nobody is going to take their Tesla to a neighborhood repair shop.
There used to be a site that showed you where the independent mechanics were, but last time I checked, there was EVWest, somebody up in Montreal and somebody, if memory serves, in VA or NC. That was it. I couldn't easily find that site, just now, so I guess there's not really anybody else.
I wonder if Rich Benoit would know of somebody else.
Saw a youtube piece, the other day, about a guy that takes his Leaf to a shop in England to get a bad cell replaced. He says it was a 2 hour job, no big deal and the car is back to normal. didn't sound like it was that expensive
How come there's no place to have that done stateside, that I know of?
That would make owning a 500e so much easier.
There are places state side for the leaf battery swap and repair. Bosch made the Fiat's pack so we'll there hasn't been much need of an aftermarket.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well, I purchased a 2017 500e from california and I live in missouri. I take my car to the dealership in Arkansas and they are just a Jeep/ram/fiat/chrysler dealer. Only had an issue with the driver side heated seat going out. Love the little car and this has increased my push to go all electric. I wish fiat would offer more electric cars or maybe just give the usa the new 500 from europe.
This thing is really a conundrum. I had put down a deposit on a 2017 Chevy Bolt only to be told that the dealer wouldn't release it because of the battery fire recall.
So I started looking to buy something, somewhere else, and came across the 2017 500e which is $ 7900, actually, $10000 out the door.
But, the whole Fiat leaving the U.S., Fiat 500's are unreliable, parts soon to be unavailable thing is all a bit much. I haven't really bought many used cars and when I have, it really wasn't pretty.
The whole I told you so thing is not something I want to hear.
A 2017 Chevy Bolt is about $8K more, but it has 2 more doors, 2.5 times the range, can be used on road trips. I hear myself saying it's "no contest" between the two, BUT.......
I haven't even bought a 500e and I get your "Love the little car".
 

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This thing is really a conundrum. I had put down a deposit on a 2017 Chevy Bolt only to be told that the dealer wouldn't release it because of the battery fire recall.
So I started looking to buy something, somewhere else, and came across the 2017 500e which is $ 7900, actually, $10000 out the door.
But, the whole Fiat leaving the U.S., Fiat 500's are unreliable, parts soon to be unavailable thing is all a bit much. I haven't really bought many used cars and when I have, it really wasn't pretty.
The whole I told you so thing is not something I want to hear.
A 2017 Chevy Bolt is about $8K more, but it has 2 more doors, 2.5 times the range, can be used on road trips. I hear myself saying it's "no contest" between the two, BUT.......
I haven't even bought a 500e and I get your "Love the little car".
Yeah, 10k is a little much. I paid 8100 with sun roof and only 19000 miles.
 

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yipee must mean Fiat 500 GAS DRIVETRAINS are unreliable. Good thing the 500e has a motor with only one moving part, & no gas drivetrain at all, so that point doesn't apply.

In 2015 I paid over $10k & I don't regret it. Selling my fossil car, the net cost has already been more than covered just in fuel, let alone oil changes, smog checks, etc....

On top of that, it is absolutely the best overall daily car I've ever driven, let alone owned, & I've owned a 5.0L V8 5-speed Datsun 240Z, & a Toyota MR2 Spyder (which spent several months in the shop, while Toyota rebuilt the engine at only 50k miles).

Yes, for twice the price the Bolt has twice the range, twice the doors, & IF it has the optional upgrade, twice* the charge speed at a paid public CCS station, but I have no need for any of those, so...

If my 500e is stolen or totaled I'm getting another. Maybe with more miles, since I now know it doesn't matter much. But maybe with the 90 days* of OEM warranty required to get Mercury Insurance to extend the warranty another 10 years, to 100k miles.

* or more? I didn't look it up to write this.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
yipee must mean Fiat 500 GAS DRIVETRAINS are unreliable. Good thing the 500e has a motor with only one moving part, & no gas drivetrain at all, so that point doesn't apply.

In 2015 I paid over $10k & I don't regret it. Selling my fossil car, the net cost has already been more than covered just in fuel, let alone oil changes, smog checks, etc....

On top of that, it is absolutely the best overall daily car I've ever driven, let alone owned, & I've owned a 5.0L V8 5-speed Datsun 240Z, & a Toyota MR2 Spyder (which spent several months in the shop, while Toyota rebuilt the engine at only 50k miles).

Yes, for twice the price the Bolt has twice the range, twice the doors, & IF it has the optional upgrade, twice* the charge speed at a paid public CCS station, but I have no need for any of those, so...

If my 500e is stolen or totaled I'm getting another. Maybe with more miles, since I now know it doesn't matter much. But maybe with the 90 days* of OEM warranty required to get Mercury Insurance to extend the warranty another 10 years, to 100k miles.

* or more? I didn't look it up to write this.
I was referring to the gas drivetrains but only where 500E suspension bits, brake bits, 12v electrical bits, etc, are the same as the gas cars. That's the part that is worrisome, those shared Fiat parts.

The truth is, I would've bought the Fiat already if it weren't for the fact that my daughter lives 110 miles away and I think it'll cause problems to have a car that we really can't use to visit her.

Thanks for mentioning Mercury Insurance, though. Not sure who they are, but I'm guessing they do extended warranties and I will look into it.

Your point about mileage, not really mattering much, is something I've thought about for a while. I can't prove it, but I think, If the single speed transmission is robust and if there's no current going through it, weakening it, the drivetrain on an electric car should last many, many hundreds of thousands of miles.
Time will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeah, 10k is a little much. I paid 8100 with sun roof and only 19000 miles.
In New Jersey, they get you in the door, all smiles, and then they hit you with $1500 - $2000 in "fees". Including the $200 for window etching to protect your car from getting stolen. Highly effective, hee hee They make like they're getting offended when you start arguing about the fees. That's before they make you run the gauntlet with the finance folks wanting to sell you insurance for your rims, upholstery treatments and extended warranties. With Covid, it's very risky to go on vacation to recuperate from the ordeal.
 

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This is the first time I recall seeing you mention 110 miles. Of course a 500e won't make that without stopping to charge mid-trip, each way. No problem in a Bolt. Purchase decision depends on trip frequency, & what other vehicles you have access to in your household or friends you can swap with.

Brakes should last literally for ever, since they don't even activate except below 7mph. It came up a while ago, someone did the math, & it came out to I think hundreds of thousands of miles. But there are plenty of aftermarket brake brands too. The latter goes also for shocks & struts, which WILL wear out at least as fast as a gas 500, since the E is heavier, but then it will be a good excuse to upgrade to Konis :) Or maybe by that time someone will have confirmed that Bilsteins work even better.

What I meant about mileage was that the battery seems to last very well, & I only use about 40% of the capacity for my US-avg. drive. But ya, motor & tranny should last very well too.
 

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When I got mine, I brought an ad for an orange one with slightly less miles for a less, & asked them to match it. 2 hours later, I was ALMOST ready to agree, after talking them down ALMOST that far. I turned to my friend with me & said "Hey, let's go for a coffee & talk it over". She told me later that they turned white. They said "Oh, hang on..... How about we just match the price of that ad you showed us?"
 

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Got a 2017 500e for $10k out the door and love it. Have had to do some repairs, but we do that type of thing:

1. The wall plug on the charger needed replacing when it started throwing 111 (ground fault) errors. Cost was $6. Son noticed the pins on the plug had been bent and restraightened.

2. The window regulator clip on the drivers side needed replacing as well as the window trim. We didn't notice the trim was failing when we bought the car. That eventually led to the regulator issue. You can see what we did here: Window regulator clip broke

We had to deal with addons at the dealership and just said no. He said the anti-theft was already installed and could not be removed, but did wave the repair insurance. We compromised and feel we got a fair deal.

My son built an extension cord for our dryer outlet leading out to the garage so our charge times are much better on 220 rather than 110. I plug in when I go to bed for the best rate and it's easily done by morning. Before this it was still charging at 6AM, if I recall correctly.

I love not having to get emission tests, change the oil and shop for the best gas price. We discovered charging stations all over the suburban area where we live and we can charge in my daughter's college town while we eat dinner with her and are ready to go back home when done. One charge station is free, the other is a dollar or two depending on need. Range is less during winter months here in Chicago-land, but my wife is currently using it to commute to work which is 15 minutes one way. She needed to get a Covid test at noon just yesterday and she had 17 miles left on a 68 estimated range for a 58 mile round trip. No problem. You'll get over range fear. I once ran it down to 0 miles and noticed no problem at all. I wonder how far below zero it will go.

The best thing for me is the speed of the little car. I stayed even once with a hopped up Camaro my son said cost 4 times what we paid for our little kick - a$$ make-me-feel-young-again car.
 

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For the single-key issue there's a kind of lower-functionality workaround. You can get 1 or more cheap non-transponder copies that will turn the door lock & ignition switch, & then tape or glue your one transponder key inside the steering column cover. Then you can use the cheap key(s) to lock/unlock/drive, but the alarm will not arm, & someone could break in & hotwire it, although there'd be no way they'd know they could, so they'd probably just bring a tow-truck anyway.
" so they'd probably just bring a tow-truck anyway."
I had a car stolen from the parking lot at work. A tow truck hauled it off. I found it in the police impound lot missing its doors, hood, trunk lid, seats, engine, and transmission.
 

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1) charge times are much better on 220 rather than 110

2) Range is less during winter

3) I once ran it down to 0 miles and noticed no problem at all. I wonder how far below zero it will go...

4) I stayed even once with a hopped up Camaro
1) Charge time with the stock cord on 220V is almost exactly double what you get on 110V. 110V gives about 5 miles per hour, recharging the US avg. 40-mile drive in 8 hours of sleep or work. 220V gives about 10 mi/hr, recharging from DEAD overnight.

2) Cold-weather range is helped a LOT if you time it so it's charging when you leave, preferably with cabin heat on for the last 5 minutes if needed. A cold battery has significantly less power, so the heat of charging retains more power.

3) Over time, "zero" starts to show on the car's display when there's still battery capacity available. It increases over time or miles. I believe one report indicated about 20% still left when it showed "0%". My 2013 at 25k miles has about 10% left at "zero". "All" you have to do to recalibrate it (so you can comfortably use the full range) is discharge until the 12V warning comes on, or better yet until it shows 12V on a gauge at the battery terminals or best yet, 0.00% on OBD.

4) 😁 I once blew the doors off a late-model Maserati who's driver actually said "Hey, wanna race?". That's probably TEN times what my car is now selling for here. Many hot cars require a couple seconds of prep time for the best launch & by that time I'm well ahead.
 
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