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2016 500e
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Loving the 500e so far. Today was 1st day in an ICE vehicle since I bought the 500e. It brought a couple things up that I would like to tweak. Not looking to make it a racecar, just liven it up a hair as it is not as sporty as I expected.

#1 Throttle response. Honestly feels like 1/4-1/3 pedal is dead. Nothing happens then off to races. Be nice to more immediate initial response. Is the $300+ go-pedal the only option?

#2 Basic handling/cornering. Car feels pretty sedate and dead on center and does not handle like I expected from reviews saying it is sport and fun. My 4500# Ford Taurus feels night and day more sporty and responsive. Is there an alignment setup some are using to improve handling/response? I don't want to burn up tires toe-in, make it jumpy, or nuke range due to alignment, but be nice to have it more responsive handling. How about swaybars to cut some of the bodyroll?

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What car?
 

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STS rear sway bar is fantastic fun. $160

Euro+Drive NA 500 Tune $595--adds power and torque, gets rid of gas pedal lag and makes 6-speed auto-trans shift quicker too. You get stage 1 and 2 tunes.
 

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OOPS!
 

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2013 Pop, manual, Abarth springs, kyb gas a just rear, zonker short shot air filter, Sprint booster
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182 Posts
Install a gas motor and 5 speed manual? Jk. How bout a set of Konis all round?
 

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There are a Couple YouTube videos. one guy lowered 500e, for better handing. He replaced he’s wheels with 17” ones. I don’t know how, that effects he’s driving range.

Sorry there is no such item, like a Go pedal on a 500e. Not sure which car your taking about. Do you have ICE 500 too?
 

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2013 FIAT 500e
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So will swaybars for the other 500's work on the 500e?
Suspension Techniques specifies this rear bar fits the 500e:

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https://www.stsuspensions.com/shop?...18356&pgs=292&ag=stsuspensionsrearantiswaybar

Also available here:
https://shopeurocompulsion.net/products/st-fiat-500-500t-rear-sway-bar?variant=11041657857
And here:
Fiat 500 Sway Bars at Andy's Auto Sport

HOWEVER, compared to the gas models that the rear bar is made for, the E has about 319 more pounds trying to slide out the rear end, so it might induce oversteer. If so, you could compensate with wider rear tires or narrower fronts, but this stiffer front bar should also fit*, & with 3 stiffness settings it should adjust to your preference (ideally slight understeer, neutral, or slight oversteer).
*If they say it won't fit because they just don't know, you should be able to compare installation pics/vids to your own car to check for yourself:

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https://neuspeed.com/collections/fiat-500-1-4l/products/neu-f-anti-sway-bar-front-25mm-nf1525

Also available at
 

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2016 500e
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There are a Couple YouTube videos. one guy lowered 500e, for better handing. He replaced he’s wheels with 17” ones. I don’t know how, that effects he’s driving range.

Sorry there is no such item, like a Go pedal on a 500e. Not sure which car your taking about. Do you have ICE 500 too?
I will see what youtube shows me. There is one guy that was really hacking a 500E up, that the one you were thinking of?
Actually there is a pedal programmer:
 

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2013 FIAT 500e
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one guy lowered 500e, for better handing. He replaced he’s wheels with 17” ones. I don’t know how, that effects he’s driving range.
Someone here lowered their 500e 2" & got something like 12% more range, since it really helps the aerodynamics which is the biggest range factor.

17" wheels don't seem to reduce range that much, so overall probably still more range than stock.
 

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2013 500e
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One of the main reasons I got the 500e is because it shared the main chassis w/ other 500's, specifically the Abarth.
Depending on you wrenching ability, a lot of stuff intended for the Abarth works fine.
1) Bilstein coilover suspension for the Abarth. (I'm using Eibach springs) Definitely lower it.
2) I think the rear suspension swingarm is actually from the Abarth. I've got an Abarth Swaybar waiting as a next project. It has the mounting eyes for the Abarth swaybar.
3) I've installed stiffer bushings and made a top hat for the front strut.
4) Chassis stiffening braces for the Abarth. These are available @ Road Race Motorsports and Madness.
5) I wouldn't go w/ 17" wheels - they're heavier and require a narrow sidewall tire. Allowing the sidewall to flex gives more grip. However, good light wheels are a definite plus!
6) Get some good tires. Everything depends on that grip!
7) Get a good alignment - to Abarth specs - once you've got a good suspension setup. It's definetely worth it! I cheaped out and ruined my first set of good tires.
8) Build in more lightness. F=MA. There's a lot of unnecessary stuff on this car.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about a performance tune & tires hurting the range. It really hasn't hurt mine. On the other hand, it is fun to throw into corners and stomp on it whenever there's an opportunity. :p That'll probably hurt the range... :rolleyes:
 

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Someone here lowered their 500e 2" & got something like 12% more range, since it really helps the aerodynamics which is the biggest range factor.

17" wheels don't seem to reduce range that much, so overall probably still more range than stock.
I lowered my 500e by about 1.5-2", noticed no change in efficiency. Changed to 17" abarth wheels, saw about 13-15% drop in efficiency. So wheels/rims you are using make a huge difference.
 

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Interesting. You're saying a HUGE change in efficiency comes from wheel & tires alone, and none due to aerodynamic changes. 13% to 15% reduction is pretty big. For example, the GOM might say the stock car's range is 88 miles. You're claiming it will drop to 75 miles by changing the wheels/tires??

I didn't notice that big of a change. Maybe in the < 3% range. I'm running lightweight spoked wheels, similar to the Abarth's, with high performance Continental extreme contact 205/50 ZR15 tires. I shredded the previous Yokahoma high performance tires. Another factor might be that these changes encourage the heavy right foot...

Meanwhile, over in Aerodynamic Drag Reduction thread, twinturboz shows large drag reductions from lowering the car. Note he also has high performance wheels. My guess is the improvements are probably due to the OE airdam working better at reducing undercar airflow.

Also, after all the wind tunnel time Fiat spent on the 500e, they bragged about a ~6% reduction in drag... This includes changing the wheels.

The 500e's wheels are pretty light, so tire drag and aerodynamic drag would be the primary drag contributions. A lot of the aerodynamic drag would be due to more cooling air flowing out through the wheels.

An excellent, very detailed master thesis was done for Saab that looks into underbody aerodynamics. As a small part of the analysis, they completely covered the wheels to look at the effect on airflow around the car. What they found is there was a ~6% reduction possible in the Cd by completely covering the wheels. Reality is some ventilation is necessary for brakes, etc, so the real world number will most likely be lower.
 

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It's likely highway vs stop-&-go that's making the efficiency difference.

For example:
  • Weight makes almost no difference at steady speed, so a difference there is much more noticeable in stop-&-go than at steady highway speeds.
  • Air drag takes about 8 times as much power at 60mph than it does at 30mph*. So aerodynamics makes much more difference at highway speed than in city traffic.

At about 66% heavier than my $125 Advanti Storms, I consider the 500e wheels to be pretty heavy, but they're much more aero than nearly any aftermarket wheel. The latter could be completely covered though (coroplast disk & zip ties?) for the ultimate aero, since for normal driving & even a panic stop our brakes don't need ANY ventilation because it's all magnetic, except below 6mph.


* Air DRAG goes up by the SQUARE of the speed, but for some reason the POWER required goes up by the CUBE of speed.
 

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2015 500e, MK7 GTI
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I think I may have asked this on another forum but after reading this thread am I to understand that we "E" owners are not limited to the Madness brand springs? I'd never heard of them and I've had 3 sets of ST coilovers on my VW's over the years so I was hoping to snag ST springs or Eibach etc... A known brand, if you will.

I really thought the 500e would handle better than it does but I have a pretty hefty setup on my GTI so maybe my expectations were too high based off daily driving that for so long? Any range advantage would be helpful to me, as I'm commuting 60 miles a day, 1/3 of it in the canyons in Malibu. Unfortunately, my work has not evaluated the utilization of the EV chargers at the office since people have been WFH so I am unable to charge at work despite chargers being unused. an extra 10% would be of great benefit.
 

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I had a 2014 Fiesta ST and a number of folks strongly argued the 500 chassis was up to it because if you actually look at the rear suspension of the FiST its archaic... I test drove the Focus ST and MK7 GTI, my bud has a MK7 GTI I drive on occasion its lovely.

In the northwest I don't need canyons to find the limits of a car and see how a chassis reacts... we still get rain sometimes. I don't know what to do with the suspension on this car.

What actually kills me is the steering and steering feel and feedback. Its so vague. I also don't like how it carries itself at 6/10 + at and at and over the limit... I don't like how it recovers abruptly without communicating. When the front end loses traction its an act of faith there will be no indication from the wheel until it grabs again.
 

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I had a 2014 Fiesta ST and a number of folks strongly argued the 500 chassis was up to it because if you actually look at the rear suspension of the FiST its archaic... I test drove the Focus ST and MK7 GTI, my bud has a MK7 GTI I drive on occasion its lovely.

In the northwest I don't need canyons to find the limits of a car and see how a chassis reacts... we still get rain sometimes. I don't know what to do with the suspension on this car.

What actually kills me is the steering and steering feel and feedback. Its so vague. I also don't like how it carries itself at 6/10 + at and at and over the limit... I don't like how it recovers abruptly without communicating. When the front end loses traction its an act of faith there will be no indication from the wheel until it grabs again.
I had a 2013 FiST for about 3 months before I got my GTI. Having only owned VW’s prior to it, and the fact that rowing gears in traffic again every day sucked, I got rid of it and got my GTI which I wanted before the fiesta but didn’t think I could swing it. Almost five years later…

the fiesta was fun but so much torque steer and the build quality felt cheap. Granted, it’s a sport version of an economy hatchback. It didn’t have the same pedigree as a gti and it’s in a different category in my opinion. If I could have kept both cars I think it would be been fun. Seeing as I’m almost 40, the comfort fit And finish of the gti suits me much better.

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What actually kills me is the steering and steering feel and feedback...
Some of your issues seem like just your tires, but to me it felt like there was NO steering feel/feedback, until I pulled the steering fuse. Click to enlarge:
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There's a blank fuse "holder" 2 spaces down where I store the 70A.

It feels much better except when parking, which gives you a nice little arm workout.

It also deactivates traction control & ESC, but the former is pretty useless (tires still spin) & the latter seems unnecessary: It still understeers mildly even with matching rims & tires all-around. Be ready for some pretty strong torque-steer though.
 

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Totally agree w/ ETS. I've pulled that fuse as well. Only downside is parkinglot maneuvering, which takes some strength, and the constant error code.
I figure anyone doing these mods better be a good enough driver to not need traction control and ESC.
I've also pulled fuse 24 in that same fuse box. It's a 7.5A fuse for EPS & YAW sensor. I think it's for the control side of those functions. So far so good, no extra error codes.

As I understand, understeer is built into every new car, because the average "freeway driver" will normally slam on the brakes and turn the steering wheel in an emergency situation. Apparently it's safer for the car to plow straight ahead than to spin, which the average "freeway driver" would have no ability to correct.
 
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