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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our 2016 500e (in USA) is having some exterior light problems. Possibly relevant background is that while on vacation for 5 weeks the car was parked un-used (and not plugged in) and the 12V battery died.
FIRST PROBLEM: After the new battery was in, a bad parking light warning appeared on the dashboard. In spite of new bulb (passenger side front parking), the dashboard warning is still on and when the parking lights are turned on, the bulb actually flashes on briefly, then goes out. The driver side parking light works OK. (Is there perhaps a relay that turns on the parking lights, and one side of the relay is bad?).
SECOND PROBEM: the passenger side taillight has now gone out. Replaced the bulb but that has not resolved the issue. Still no light. Cannot find in the manual a fuse listed that seems to be for the taillight (?).

Anyone have similar experiences?
 

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Hello @CWKLEIN!

We regret to hear about your vehicle's taillight and parking light concerns and would like to assist alongside your Fiat dealership. Please send us a private message with any additional developments as well as your vehicle's mileage to start a conversation with us. Hope to connect soon!

Hannah
Fiat Cares
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello @CWKLEIN!

We regret to hear about your vehicle's taillight and parking light concerns and would like to assist alongside your Fiat dealership. Please send us a private message with any additional developments as well as your vehicle's mileage to start a conversation with us. Hope to connect soon!

Hannah
Fiat Cares
Unclear how to send a private message. There are instructions to click username and select 'start a conversation' button but all I see is a Message button
 

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Letting the 12V battery die has caused many different issues for other owners, even after replacing it with a good fully charged one.

If I were you I'd put the car to sleep*, then leave the error-causing humidity sensor disconnected, then disconnect the negative terminal for 30 seconds. If that fails, try for 30+ hours (or as long as you can without inconveniencing anybody.


* Key out for 2 minutes without opening or closing any door or hatch. It's okay to leave one door open (such as the left, to pop the hood) as long as you don't close it until after disconnecting the battery.
 

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New to the forum. I have a 2013 Fiat 500. I had an issue with my taillights and daytime lighting. I changed the taillights and the daylight bulbs. My wife decided to get LED type for the daylight bulbs. All light were changed, still had the triangle on the dashboard says daytime lights fault. 2 days later wife looked at the manual and got the part numbers. She went directly to a parts store and got with one of the clerks. She all the original bulbs and now I have no problems. Crazy how not using OEM parts can screw things up
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Letting the 12V battery die has caused many different issues for other owners, even after replacing it with a good fully charged one.

If I were you I'd put the car to sleep*, then leave the error-causing humidity sensor disconnected, then disconnect the negative terminal for 30 seconds. If that fails, try for 30+ hours (or as long as you can without inconveniencing anybody.


* Key out for 2 minutes without opening or closing any door or hatch. It's okay to leave one door open (such as the left, to pop the hood) as long as you don't close it until after disconnecting the battery.
Thanks for the advice, but I am pretty nervous about the idea of disconnecting the battery, when the problems seem to have started as a result of a dead battery. Disconnecting would just re-create the same situation. Yes/No?
 

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No.

It's a different situation:
  • What you accidentally did was expose the system to 10V, 9V, 8V, 7V, 6V, 5V, etc, which is apparently a bit hard for it to deal with, creating issues that aren't auto-corrected even after 12 volts is reestablished.
  • Disconnecting the negative is just a more complete reboot of the onboard computer, by switching from 12 volts to zero volts, & back to 12.
Even if it did re-create the same situation, you'd be no worse off.
 

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Many other users, including myself, have disconnected the 12V negative, always with good results. I've only had to do it once for replacement, & once to reset, which fixed the issue I had. However I've disconnected it about 30 times for other reasons (click here if you're curious & check post #2).

All it ever did, besides reboot the computer, is zero out the trip gauges & the date/time. It didn't even zero out the radio stations, audio settings or menu preferences such as the charge timer.

Other users have had that timer auto-default to "active", so just check later that it's still set to your own personal preference.
 

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I am pretty nervous...
Here's the list of proven solutions.

You can start with whichever option makes you the least nervous. If you're lucky, the first one you pick will work:
  • With car asleep, disconnect/reconnect negative terminal
  • With car asleep, disconnect humidity sensor, & don't reconnect
  • Clear error codes with $17 WIRELESS OBD dongle & free AlfaOBD Android/Windows app (I consider those tools essential, since they can sometimes revive a "dead" 500e)
  • 2-minutes-off, & then turn the key on, then off another 2 minutes, etc. 10 times is usually enough, but apparently 50 can be required to clear some errors if you don't use OBD.
  • With car asleep, disconnect HV plug 5 minutes, under back seat*
  • Take it to a dealer (like Fiat"Cares" usually suggests), some of whom charge $600+ just for the OBD scan that you can do yourself with the $17 dongle.
* Just make sure the black handle is straight up perpendicular prior to reconnecting. It's easy to get wrong, but also very easy to get right, if you just check the pics at the right end, so I included both full-size AND "click to enlarge" versions:
Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font

Click to enlarge: Food Gesture Screenshot Terrestrial plant Font
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions and detailed instructions. I was just about to go ahead with the various disconnect options but recalled first that a couple of other posts regarding bulb problems on the 500/500e said that aftermarket bulbs don't always work. For replacements, I'd purchased
(a) Philips Vision W21/5W 12066B2 (from Amazon; for the front parking/daytime running) and
(b) Sylvania 7528, the bulb being Osram SK 7528L 12V P21/5W (from O'Reilly; for the tail/turning light).

So, I went to our local Fiat dealer and bought the same "W21/5W" and "P21/5W" bulbs, paying of course about three times the price for bulbs that appear to be the exact equivalents of the Philips and Sylvania bulbs. But go figure: these new bulbs are working and the parking lamp error on the dashboard has disappeared(!?). Dumb luck? I'd removed and re-installed the previous replacements two times! I half expect something new to go wrong.
 

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Thanks for the advice, but I am pretty nervous about the idea of disconnecting the battery, when the problems seem to have started as a result of a dead battery. Disconnecting would just re-create the same situation. Yes/No?
Hello! Our team has since responded to your private message and are eager to assist with your concerns. Hope to link up soon!

Hannah
Fiat Cares
 

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...aftermarket bulbs don't always work...
I went to our local Fiat dealer and bought the same "W21/5W" and "P21/5W" bulbs... these new bulbs are working ...
I'm glad you got it fixed, & that you confirmed the easy @Skipyg fix.

It's pretty weird though. Generic bulbs have always worked fine on my 2013 500e (both headlights & both brakelights) & also on my friend's 2016 brakelight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm glad you got it fixed, & that you confirmed the easy @Skipyg fix.

It's pretty weird though. Generic bulbs have always worked fine on my 2013 500e (both headlights & both brakelights) & also on my friend's 2016 brakelight.
Very weird. I half suspect that the light problems were actually due to some issue in a control module (like you said) that for some reason self-corrected. We have a 2013 Sprinter van in which the middle and back-end cabin lights stopped turning on when the sliding door is opened. The cause was diagnosed not as a bad switch on the door frame, but as a problem in a $600 (!) control panel that manages all sorts of things. Obviously, we didn't replace the module.
 
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