[whatebahw]

I have the Bose system and was wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the driver in the Bose sub. I am considering replacing it but don't want to go to the trouble of removing the sub if a suitable replacement isn't available.

Also, an ohm rating would be helpful.

 

[Tweak]

Subwoofer is 4.5 in I believe you will find...here is what little other info I can offer.


The Bose system we have in the FIAT: http://www.bose.com/controller?url=/automotive/innovations/energy_efficient.jsp




FAQ: http://www.bose.com/controller?url=/automotive/faq/index.jsp



Beyond this you will need to contact them (which probably won't help) or open it and take a look I think.


Can I get a list of technical specifications?

No, because our custom-engineered, complete system solutions largely supersede conventional audio measurements. Even some basic building blocks have been redefined—including amplifiers, speakers and equalizers. But most importantly, our integrated systems deliver results significantly different from those of conventional systems with individual, unmatched components. With a Bose automotive sound system, the location and design of the speakers can be much more important factors in determining output than a wattage power rating. The bottom line? The best way to test a Bose system's sound quality is to use your ears, not a list of specifications.


c. Can I add a subwoofer?
No. As noted above, each Bose automotive sound system is completely integrated, with the elements custom-engineered to work together as a whole. If you add a subwoofer to the system, its output is unlikely to be proportionate with that of speakers already in place. In most cases, adding a subwoofer will detract from—not enhance—the sound quality.


For those that have mentioned in the past the EQ or lack thereof...
Why doesn't my Bose sound system have lots of controls?

Because we engineer our systems with the technology on the inside, not on the outside. For example, you might notice the absence of a graphic equalizer. But inside the system, our Bose proprietary technology applies a separate EQ curve to each individual speaker. You enjoy clearer, more natural sound, at a far greater resolution than is possible with most graphic equalizers. And you're free from having to make the many adjustments required for high-fidelity sound yourself.

 

[crnacnac]

I'm doing an install right now. Just removed the factory sub. It is a 5 1/4", the max depth is 3 1/4", it is a .5ohm which equals-not worth messing with. Either deal with it or add an amp, sub, and enclosure.

 

[whatebahw]

I'm doing an install right now. Just removed the factory sub. It is a 5 1/4", the max depth is 3 1/4", it is a .5ohm which equals-not worth messing with. Either deal with it or add an amp, sub, and enclosure.

Thank you both for the info.

 

[whatebahw]

I am considering replacing the driver with a better woofer and recycling the tuned enclosure but adding an amp. This amp has speaker level inputs.



and the woofer..


My biggest concern is that this sub will not fully cover the range the Bose driver is expected to or that I may drown out the other speakers.

I like the idea of not adding the weight of an enclosure and woofers as well as not loosing the precious space.

 

[ralplpcr]

Sorry for resurrecting this old thread, but I am curious if your woofer replacement worked out? If so, did you retain the factory Bose head unit, or did you do aftermarket?
I'm looking to replace my Bose system as well, but I'm hoping to keep the head unit so I can still have the Blue&Me/hands-free functions. It's not the greatest, but I think with a decent amp/speakers downstream, it would do a whole lot better.

 

[troy_audi0]

I'm looking to replace my Bose system as well, but I'm hoping to keep the head unit so I can still have the Blue&Me/hands-free functions. It's not the greatest, but I think with a decent amp/speakers downstream, it would do a whole lot better.

If you want to replace all of the speakers you should look at the fallowing items for OEM Integration
Audison BitOne or BitTen ($699/999)
Mosconi 6to8 ($699)
Arc Audio SRi ($279)
Audio Control (Not sure of part number)
Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2

You can use OEM signal to get the audio from wires to RCA and flatten the EQ curve most have the ability to tune the audio system as well.

 

[ralplpcr]

If you want to replace all of the speakers you should look at the fallowing items for OEM Integration.......

Thanks for the info, Troy! Do you really think it's necessary to go that route, though? My understanding is that the signal coming out of the head unit is pretty much normal - - it's only after it's gone through the Bose amp and has been "processed" that it starts to get all wonky.
My thoughts were to take the signal out from the head unit (using line level to RCA converter if necessary) and feed it into a better crossover/amp. I'd replace the Bose speakers, of course - - looking at a few pair from Kicker or Rockford Fosgate which should do the trick nicely. The trick of course is to get a clean signal to the amps. Can anyone confirm if the head unit signal is "Bose-ified", or if I can get a clean feed from it?

 

[ralplpcr]

To better explain - I know that the head unit's output will require some type of line level conversion to enable it to work with a regular amplifier. Either that, or my amp will need to accept speaker-level inputs. (I'd probably end up with something like http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html#customer-reviews-tab to take the output to a level my amp can accept) But my main concern is whether the head unit sends a good signal to the amp, or if I'd absolutely need some kind of equalization to flatten it out?
Has anybody tried tapping into the head unit's signal yet to see?

 

[ralplpcr]

Has anybody tried tapping into the head unit's signal yet to see?

Since nobody replied, I'm guessing that I'm venturing into unknown territory...

I was out of work early enough today that I could take advantage of the decent weather, so I broke out my multimeter and some old 4Ohm speakers I had laying around to check it myself. Here's what I found:

There are 3 molex-type plugs going into the Bose amp. They seem to go in order from left->right by wire gauge - - after a good bit of trial & error, I've mapped out the important wires.

1. Left plug - very small wires. (About Cat-3 size) Carries signal from head unit.
Yellow/Yellow stripe - Left Front
Purple/Purple stripe - Right Front
Grey/Grey Orange stripe - Left Rear
Green/Green stripe - Left Rear

2. Middle Plug - roughly 16 gauge wire, with a few smaller ones interspersed. Mainly speaker outputs -
Red with Yellow Stripe - +12v Amp Turn-on signal (from head unit)
Black - Ground to head unit
Yellow/Yellow stripe - Front Left
Purple/Purple stripe - Front Right

There were quite a few other wires on this plug, but it seemed that the rear speaker output used some sort of funky common ground? Since I'll be replacing the speaker wire anyway, I really didn't care... but I could probably map them better once I get the old speakers out.

3. Right Plug - Largest wires. Will mostly not be using these, as I'll run my own power from the battery & stiffening capacitor. There's about 7 wires on here, presumably having something to do with the subwoofer power.... but the ones I confirmed are:
Red/White Stripe - +12V always on
Black - Ground to car body

It took some creative wire-tapping, but once I got this all mapped, I was able to hook up some old 4Ohm speakers directly to the head unit. As best I could tell, the signal coming from the head unit is clean. I'm not positive, but I'd suspect that the head unit would be the same as if I didn't have the Bose system - - I don't have a non-Bose 500 head unit with which to compare, but I suspect it is designed for rather low-impedance speakers. I could get my 4Ohms to play, and they sounded pretty flat & clear, but they were MUCH quieter than I'd have expected. These were from an old factory system that I'd removed, so it's not like they were high-power speakers... but I had to crank them to 3/4 volume to get a decent level. It'll be interesting to see if I can "trick" the head unit into not thinking it's connected to a Bose system, and get that hidden EQ to come up!

So I'm looking at the AudioControl LC6i as the LOC to convert that signal into something my amp can use. Still have to take a few measurements and figure out what can go where... but I'm now pretty confident that I can keep the head unit (along with all the Blue&Me features) and replace the rest to end up with a much better sounding system.

 

[bigdps]

What hidden EQ is there? I thought BOSE had the basic treble and base.

 

[ralplpcr]

What hidden EQ is there? I thought BOSE had the basic treble and base.

The BOSE does only have basic treble & bass. But if by some strange chance the head unit is actually the same as the non-BOSE system, and the EQ is disabled when hooked up to the BOSE amp, then there's a chance it'll come up when it's no longer part of the equation. It's a longshot, but you never know??

 

[bigdps]

Ok let's say you do get the radio to think it's not a BOSE, what other settings do you get to see? You mean to tell me that you'll have a 7 band EQ to show up? If so, count me in in trying to fool the radio!

 

[ralplpcr]

The only other setting I'm aware of that's different between the BOSE & non-BOSE head unit is a "loudness" setting. I'm not sure how to set it, but I'm guessing it's under the "Audio" button? I can see the "Loud" indicator on my BOSE head unit's display, and have found no way to turn it on... yet it does make me wonder whether there really is a difference between the BOSE/non-BOSE head unit, or if it just disables those functions when connected to a BOSE amp?

 

[johngps]

No, because our custom-engineered, complete system solutions largely supersede conventional audio measurements. Even some basic building blocks have been redefined—including amplifiers, speakers and equalizers. But most importantly, our integrated systems deliver results significantly different from those of conventional systems with individual, unmatched components. With a Bose automotive sound system, the location and design of the speakers can be much more important factors in determining output than a wattage power rating. The bottom line? The best way to test a Bose system's sound quality is to use your ears, not a list of specifications.

 

[Darkwagoner]

What about adding a sub to a Pop without the Bose..? Is the wires there? I know in my Honda S2000 the sub was an extra and it had the wires already run. All you had to do is run an amp and it was done. Same with Fiat?

 

[ralplpcr]

Ok let's say you do get the radio to think it's not a BOSE, what other settings do you get to see? You mean to tell me that you'll have a 7 band EQ to show up? If so, count me in in trying to fool the radio!

Finally got everything finished up, and unfortunately *have NOT* been able to bring up any hidden EQ or Loudness settings. It's either a different head unit, or there's some hardware switch that I haven't been able to find.

The only thing I haven't tried on the radio itself is the "reset radio" function - - the EQ & Loudness functions aren't important enough to me to mess up my Sirius, Blue & Me, or other functions in the head unit. Besides, once the new amp is properly balanced with the car & system, I really don't need an EQ.

 

[ralplpcr]

What about adding a sub to a Pop without the Bose..? Is the wires there? I know in my Honda S2000 the sub was an extra and it had the wires already run. All you had to do is run an amp and it was done. Same with Fiat?

Can't answer that one for you, since I only have the Lounge where the BOSE is standard. I'd suspect not, though - I do know that the wiring harness for the BOSE amp is not there?