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2013 FIAT 500e
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Some details:

I removed the OEM 12V battery (around 38Lb) & installed the pictured one (around THREE pounds) 10/6, 6:19pm (for the record).

It only read 11.52V on OBD but it started the car perfectly. I charged for a few hours, after which it read 12.16V.

I unplugged for 36 hours, after which it only read 11.38V, but again it started the car perfectly. I happened to be charging for 4 3/4 hours, after which it read 12.34V.

I often go 80 hours unplugged though, so I WAS going to test to see how long it would last. HOWEVER, while figuring out the best way to mount it permanently, I disconnected it to rearrange the cable routing. I realized it's not so good to let it go dead, & I could just install a $10 disconnect switch so it would last as long as needed.

Click to enlarge. Before & After:
20201006_165007.jpg 20201014_110624.jpg
 

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Nice!
I was thinking about picking up a Braille battery, but they are $150 and a few pounds heavier. Do you have a pic installed/mounted in car? Where did you get it from and did it come with the auto terminals?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Almost all* parts on Amazon:
  1. $20 Battery: Search "Mighty Max YTX4L".**
  2. $18 Auto Terminals: Search "XS Power Adapter".**
  3. $10 Switch: Search "Motorbike Battery Switch".**
*Also need 2 Home Depot 10-32 x 3/4" screws.

**Details:
  1. I would have got the $25 gel version but it was out of stock at the time. There's a selection of larger sizes if you click on either version, then click "Brand: Mighty Max Battery" (by the price), then "Motorcycle". I wanted to test the extreme smallest possible, but for nearly the same price & weight you can get 4Ah (33% more), 6Ah (double, for at least 72 hours unplugged), 8Ah, 10, 12, etc. 14Ah seems like over-kill, since it works fine even for high-power cranking of the gas 500, according to reports on the Fiat500usa forum.
  2. Adapter screws are 1mm too thick for the 5mm nuts that come with the battery, but 10-32 x 3/4" screws work perfectly, as pictured (ideally 5mm x 20mm hex or Allen head for more torque).
  3. Just look for the blue knob, as you scroll down the search results. Really ingenious, with just two metal plates that are isolated by plastic but then connected when you turn the knob clockwise to make the screw head contact! No other details yet, since mine still hasn't arrived.
Installed & mounted pics added to posts 1 & 2 above. Pic below from when I just hooked it up to test while parked & a short drive. At less than ONE TENTH the stock weight, it's SO light that the 6 thick cables hold it pretty much in place! It was fine even sliding around my favorite corner! It could be fine permanently with just a piece of 1" styrofoam cut to fit snug around it, & snug in the OEM tray.

Click to enlarge:
3Ah in1.jpg
 

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35lbs is pretty significant for $20. Some people spend $500+ on a carbon fiber hood and won't drop that much weight.

It's pretty easy to drop 200+lbs on this car, which is significant. A light battery is just one piece of the puzzle.

Easy Stuff:

-35lbs battery
-35lbs wheels tires
-70lbs Rear seat delete
-50lbs Passenger seat
-2lbs Engine cover

Not as easy:

-30lbs Lightweight racing seat for driver
-30lbs Remove front and rear bumper supports


I plan to do a few of these things and get the car corner weighted in a few weeks.
 

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2017 Fiat 500e (Billet Argento), 2015 VW Golf Sportwagen TSI 5MT (Tungsten Silver), 2002 Honda VFR
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When you only have 111hp to summon every pound does make a difference. When I drove home with 4 heavy stock wheels in my car it felt like the car was slower then when the car was wearing them. Small cars like this definitely feels the weight. Wheels despite being a expense was a great investment on overall performance for me. Car handles like a go kart now, even with the same tires on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My main point right now is that for daily driving it could be fine left connected*, since parked, key off, unplugged:
  • 3Lb, 3Ah lasts 1.5+ days. DAILY DRIVERS CAN SKIP TO "MOUNTING TIPS" BELOW
  • 4Ah for 2+ days.
  • 6Ah for long weekend 8pm Fri to 8pm Mon or more.
  • 14Ah for a week or more.
*I'll likely leave my batt switch on sometime accidentally, & that could give another data point of longer time parked.

My research led me to an estimated minimum of 30mA drain while parked. If true, the above times leave about 64% remaining, so you might theoretically double them, HOWEVER...:

Nobody wants a dead battery OR to have to pop the hood to switch it off, so IF you pushed the limit like that or even further, lithium-ion has much better deep-cycle life:

- For about the cost of a Walmart OEM replacement, you can get a 1.5-pound Antigravity 3.3Ah* (so-called 7Ah Lead-acid equivalent). That should last at least a couple days connected, parked, key off, unplugged, & it has a built-in jumpstarter just in case it doesn't.
* 150 cranking amps for GayeLee & other gas cars.

- IF you already have a $40+ jumpstarter, Amazon has Li-ion 12-volt batteries starting at $65 but beware of unrealistically high "Pb-acid equivalent" Ah specs: Weight might be a better gauge, & until further testing, we can't expect them to last much more than a little over one day per pound.

MOUNTING TIPS:
  • START the threads of the terminal screws/nuts BEFORE putting the battery in place, because after that the little nuts are hard to get started, even with a little flat-head screwdriver to hold them while turning the screw. Some models avoid that with solid, threaded terminals.
  • The switch shown in post #1 requires drilling out its stock threads, to "reverse" it for control-knob clearance.
Mount Pics: OEM, removed, new, installed:

Empty OEM 12V Tray.jpg OEM 12V Tray Parts.jpg Tiny 12V Mount.jpg Tiny Mount Attached.jpg Tiny 12V on New Mount.jpg
 

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2017 Fiat 500e (Billet Argento), 2015 VW Golf Sportwagen TSI 5MT (Tungsten Silver), 2002 Honda VFR
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Hey ETS what’s your location? I got a brand new AGM motorcycle battery in the garage if you want it. I charged it up and left in the factory box. It’s prob been about 3 months since I last had it on the tender tho never been installed in my bike. It’s a SigmasTek YT12A-BS Battery 10ah 175cca.
109224
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Note that the average daily commuter using L1 goes only about a maximum of only 8 hours* between charging the 12V on workdays, since it charges while driving AND while charging.

IF the car is home all weekend, it's about a maximum of 2.3 days with the 12V uncharged.

*20 mile drive (charges the 12V), park at work 8 hours, 20 miles home, 8 hours to recharge, then max 8 hours parked off charge before driving again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Attempted Additional Weight Saving: The 12V tray's frame front hooks under a lip, so the back would need to be lifted higher than the HV active cooling hoses allow. That frame looks like HUGE overkill strength & weight, but it may be a crash-safety item.

...brand new AGM motorcycle battery in the garage if you want it...10ah...
Thanks, but that's way heavier than I need, so maybe just let me know if you can't sell it to someone else here, maybe a weekend-only worker, since it would last at least 5 days unplugged.
 

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Attempted Additional Weight Saving: The 12V tray's frame front hooks under a lip, so the back would need to be lifted higher than the HV active cooling hoses allow. That frame looks like HUGE overkill strength & weight, but it may be a crash-safety item.



Thanks, but that's way heavier than I need, so maybe just let me know if you can't sell it to someone else here, maybe a weekend-only worker, since it would last at least 5 days unplugged.
Way heavier? Ehh maybe a couple pounds worth but one overlooked area of weight reduction is the driver, after Covid stay at home I could lose a battery’s worth of weight 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #16
"Way heavier than I NEED", by comparison, at around 300% the weight of my current 12V.

Another way to save weight AND money: Eat less. After Covid job loss I can't afford as much yummy fattening luxury food.
 

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"Way heavier than I NEED", by comparison, at around 300% the weight of my current 12V.

Another way to save weight AND money: Eat less. After Covid job loss I can't afford as much yummy fattening luxury food.
No doubt 😂 but when a cheeseburger is $2 and a salad is $9 um....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
For anyone else considering a switch that disconnects the 12V, on my 2013 that zeroes out the trip gauges, & the date/time display, but not OBD, bluetooth pairing, radio or menu presets, or anything else that I know of. For ME those aren't problems:

  • I have an eye-level phone mount for date/time.
  • I like to reset one trip gauge anyway, to watch my efficiency during that drive.
I'm also used to popping the hood to keep the OEM 12V cool while charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Noticeably better on speedbumps!

I did NOT expect this, but maybe I should have, since the ENTIRE stock 12V was AHEAD of the front hubs. Its center of gravity looked to be about a FOOT ahead, so it had some "swing weight" to it.

Most of my lifetime of driving has been in cars where you don't even slow down at all for speedbumps. The latest example being an eGolf, which makes them feel like running over an extension cord. By comparison, the 500e with stock dampers is literally dreadful (I dread the 4 pretty harsh speedbumps on my normal route). I was in a bit of a hurry today, & cringed as I approached them without slowing as much as usual. To my delight, there was much less front-end bounce than before! Confirmed as I went even faster over the next three.

I really didn't think I'd notice any difference at all. I just figured over time it's a tiny bit less strain every mile. Maybe a tiny bit less understeer & wear on the tires over 5 years with the better weight distribution & lower CG since the OEM 12V was mounted nearly as high as possible.
 

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check the initial charging current for the small (probably AGM battery or similar)
if its discharges to 11 V after run the car PIM can deliver up to +/- 170A to charge it back to 13.8V
you CAN BURN YOUR CAR with that kind experiments
 
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