Fiat 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
There is a way to fix the trunk switch issue. I converted mine to mechanical cable pull to open the trunk. I don't have any pictures of it, sorry. I drilled a small hole in the side of the trunk latch mechanism and put a large gauge wire (cut bike spoke) with a hook end over the latch mechanism. It is long enough to go outside the latch. loop on the end of wire. Then a bike brake cable with housing fed through the trunk out to where the switch is. Remove entire switch button and rubber cover. end of cable comes out where switch was. Finish end so you can pull the cable. When not needed put wire up into cavity of switch. This is not perfect and has not been refined. Because my switch failed and I could not get it to work even with custom repairs. Now I just pull the cable and opens the trunk. No electronics... No it will not lock but nobody knows until now how it works..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
There is a way to fix the trunk switch issue. I converted mine to mechanical cable pull to open the trunk. I don't have any pictures of it, sorry. I drilled a small hole in the side of the trunk latch mechanism and put a large gauge wire (cut bike spoke) with a hook end over the latch mechanism. It is long enough to go outside the latch. loop on the end of wire. Then a bike brake cable with housing fed through the trunk out to where the switch is. Remove entire switch button and rubber cover. end of cable comes out where switch was. Finish end so you can pull the cable. When not needed put wire up into cavity of switch. This is not perfect and has not been refined. Because my switch failed and I could not get it to work even with custom repairs. Now I just pull the cable and opens the trunk. No electronics... No it will not lock but nobody knows until now how it works..
James0007, just replace the part and be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Wifes parts fell out also but she lost the spring. Pulled a spring out of a doorbell button. Worked great.
The spring goes on the black post between the metal contacts. The black plastic part is half of the switch body and the other half is inside the chrome handle. These snap together with the spring in between. The spring holds the contacts apart until the rubber boot is pushed which closes the contacts to open the latch.
After I put the switch back together I glued the rubber boot to the switch so it won't fall out again.
Don't but a new handle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Wifes parts fell out also but she lost the spring. Pulled a spring out of a doorbell button. Worked great.
The spring goes on the black post between the metal contacts. The black plastic part is half of the switch body and the other half is inside the chrome handle. These snap together with the spring in between. The spring holds the contacts apart until the rubber boot is pushed which closes the contacts to open the latch.
After I put the switch back together I glued the rubber boot to the switch so it won't fall out again.
Don't but a new handle.
Hoping someone is still reading this. Having similar problem but just the rubber part fell off. The rest of the switch feels loose inside the chrome part but doesn't feel like it will fall out completely as it's held by the wires. I don't understand how the rubber part was held before it fell out, i don't see or feel any clips anywhere. What did you use to glue the rubber part to the switch body? and what's holding the whole switch inside the chrome 'handle'. Did you have to remove the entire handle to fix it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hoping someone is still reading this. Having similar problem but just the rubber part fell off. The rest of the switch feels loose inside the chrome part but doesn't feel like it will fall out completely as it's held by the wires. I don't understand how the rubber part was held before it fell out, i don't see or feel any clips anywhere. What did you use to glue the rubber part to the switch body? and what's holding the whole switch inside the chrome 'handle'. Did you have to remove the entire handle to fix it?
My girlfriend's broke too. Her Fiat is a 2016 500x. The rubber boot that goes on the switch became unglued from the switch. I tried to glue it back 3 times, using two different type glues, but ultimately it wouldn't stick and eventually kept falling off. Unfortunately over the past couple decades, there's not too many glues that will stick to plastic and or rubber anymore. So good luck on finding one that will stick. The switch will still work even with the rubber boot cover off. However, be very careful that the plastic faceplate to the switch (not the rubber boot) doesn't come apart and fall off. If it does, the inner spring will fall out and not make the switch work, even if you are able to put the plastic faceplate back on without the spring. If that happens, you can easily still activate the switch and open the hatch by placing a small piece of aluminum foil across the two metal leads inside the switch, which are located on both sides of where the spring was. The actual switch is held in to the hatch handle body by 4 small clips (two on top of the switch, and two on the bottom of the switch), which snaps it into the rear hatch handle body. Use a small screwdriver or thin putty knife to lightly pry it out. Once pride out, it will still be hanging there by the two electrical wires attached to the switch. Don't settle just yet on purchasing the entire rear hatch handle assembly for $150+. I searched around on Fiat sites and found what appears to be a generic replacement switch with the wire connector and attached rubber boot. Although the site says this switch won't fit her 2016 500x, it looks nearly identical with the exception of different coloring on the two wires. The price was cheap, really cheap at $11.81 with free shipping. I just ordered it and will be further working on this in a few days when it arrives.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
My girlfriend's broke too. The rubber boot that goes on the switch became unglued from the switch. I tried to glue it back 3 times, using two different type glues, but ultimately it wouldn't stick and eventually kept falling off. Unfortunately over the past couple decades, there's not too many glues that will stick to plastic and or rubber anymore. So good luck on finding one that will stick. The switch will still work even with the rubber boot cover off. However, be very careful that the plastic faceplate to the switch (not the rubber boot) doesn't come apart and fall off. If it does, the inner spring will fall out and not make the switch work, even if you are able to put the plastic faceplate back on without the spring. If that happens, you can easily still activate the switch and open the hatch by placing a small piece of aluminum foil across the two metal leads inside the switch, which are located on both sides of where the spring was. The actual switch is held in to the hatch handle body by 4 small clips (two on top of the switch, and two on the bottom of the switch), which snaps it into the rear hatch handle body. Use a small screwdriver or thin putty knife to lightly pry it out. Once pride out, it will still be hanging there by the two electrical wires attached to the switch. Don't settle just yet on purchasing the entire rear hatch handle assembly for $150+. I searched around on Fiat sites and found what appears to be a generic replacement switch with the wire connector and attached rubber boot. Although the site says this switch won't fit her 2015 500x, it looks nearly identical with the exception of different coloring on the two wires. The price was cheap, really cheap at $11.81 with free shipping. I just ordered it and will be further working on this in a few days when it arrives. Here's the link to the switch:

Thanks for the reply! I've got masking tape on the handle in case the switch faceplate falls out 😁. Please post an update when you get the new part! Would be great if it works! I might hold off on trying to glue the rubber boot back on...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Thanks for the reply! I've got masking tape on the handle in case the switch faceplate falls out 😁. Please post an update when you get the new part! Would be great if it works! I might hold off on trying to glue the rubber boot back on...
Ok, so it turns out that the switch #901-147 DOESN’T WORK as it’s a completely different size and shape. However, I found a switch that does work! Use Doorman #901-470 instead. You can either buy it direct from Doorman.com, or buy it on Amazon for $22.99. When looking at the new and existing switches, I noticed they appeared to be an exact replica as far as appearance and fitment, but the wiring was a bit different. Prior to installation, I tested the new switch with a voltmeter for continuity, but found that it didn’t work. So figuring I got a bad switch, I sent it back and got another one. When I tested that second switch, it too had no continuity when the button was depressed. Now I figured I was either extremely unlucky in getting two bad switches, or there was some other issue I was unaware of. So here’s what I did, please pay CLOSE ATTENTION TO THESE INSTRUCTIONS. The 901-470 switch comes with two attached wires, a beige wire and a black/green wire. I pulled both switches completely apart. (Be very careful when doing this so you don’t break the tabs. There’s also a spring and a hinge that need to come out). When looking at the inside of both switches, I noticed a slight difference in the plastic molded design on the new switch’s green/black wire side. Underneath that side is probably a capacitor or resistor. I really don’t know as I’m not an electrician. But when I placed a wire directly to the brass lead on that side, then tested that wire along with the beige wire on the new switch, I got continuity when the switch was activated by touching a small piece of tinfoil on both brass leads! This is because I bypassed the possible capacitor or resistor encased in the plastic. I then drilled a small hole through the inside of the switch on the switch's green/black wire side and pulled a new wire through and soldered it directly to the brass lead. I then cut off the green/black wire. You could technically cut this wire off first, then use it as your new wire to pull through the hole you drilled. I then reassembled the switch, connected it to the car’s existing wiring, then placed it back inside the car and it now works perfectly again! Yes, this was quite a lot of work. To do this you’ll need a drill, a soldering iron and some basic soldering skills, but it sure beats having to buy the complete molding, which costs $250-450 from the dealer. I hope this helps some of you.

UPDATE: I cut my original switch apart and saw that the wire was soldered directly to the brass lead (see photo). There's no capacitor or resistor inside the original switch. So chances are there is no capacitor or resistor inside the new switch either (Doorman #901-470). So chances were that I potentially got two bad switches from the start. Regardless, my hack otherwise works, and we now know for sure that the Doorman #901-470 switch on Amazon for $22.99 fits exactly and works. So don't listen to the dealership, when they tell you you'll need to buy the entire back panel for a new switch. If you buy this switch, check it with a voltmeter prior to installation to verify it works. Set your voltmeter to the lowest ohm "Ω" setting (200). Touch the two probes on the voltmeter together to check the continuity. If I recall right, it should read about 40-60 for proper continuity. Then touch the probes of the voltmeter to the ends of the new switch wires, and depress the new switch button. If there is proper continuity in the switch, It should read the same continuity on your voltmeter. If it doesn't read that, you either potentially got a bad switch from the start like I may have, or there is a capacitor or resistor encased within, and the hack above will work. For the next person who attempts this, please advise if your new switch works from the start.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
But the hatch lid stays locked from intruders otherwise? Or anyone can open it now, at any time?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
The latch stays locked from Intruders. It is completely fixed. The door locks and unlocks with your car's remote. With the exception of the wiring hack, this new switch is an exact replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
For the switch to be reconized by the BCM (computer) it needs to have 1.5 kOhms resistance when depressed.
This is a safety feature so that a normal shortcircuit would not let the hatch open during an accident. This is the reason you could not find continutity
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top