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Ok so I ordered your switch Doorman #901-470 .
It is exactly the same switch bit for a different Chrysler ( the caravan I beleive).
Instead of the required 1.5ohms resistance when closed I measured 4.8 kohms (that's why it might seem broken if you don't measure resistance) . To make it work I followed you process and drilled a hole. Instead of a simple bridge, I added a 2.2kohms resistor in parallel of the resistor if the Doorman #901-470 and successfully achieved a total of approximately 1.5kohoms resistance required by the fiat 500 abarth 2021 bcm to recognize a closed hatch button. All good it's now as new.
Excellent, glad you got it to work!
 

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My girlfriend's broke too. Her Fiat is a 2016 500x. The rubber boot that goes on the switch became unglued from the switch. I tried to glue it back 3 times, using two different type glues, but ultimately it wouldn't stick and eventually kept falling off. Unfortunately over the past couple decades, there's not too many glues that will stick to plastic and or rubber anymore. So good luck on finding one that will stick. The switch will still work even with the rubber boot cover off. However, be very careful that the plastic faceplate to the switch (not the rubber boot) doesn't come apart and fall off. If it does, the inner spring will fall out and not make the switch work, even if you are able to put the plastic faceplate back on without the spring. If that happens, you can easily still activate the switch and open the hatch by placing a small piece of aluminum foil across the two metal leads inside the switch, which are located on both sides of where the spring was. The actual switch is held in to the hatch handle body by 4 small clips (two on top of the switch, and two on the bottom of the switch), which snaps it into the rear hatch handle body. Use a small screwdriver or thin putty knife to lightly pry it out. Once pride out, it will still be hanging there by the two electrical wires attached to the switch. Don't settle just yet on purchasing the entire rear hatch handle assembly for $150+. I searched around on Fiat sites and found what appears to be a generic replacement switch with the wire connector and attached rubber boot. Although the site says this switch won't fit her 2016 500x, it looks nearly identical with the exception of different coloring on the two wires. The price was cheap, really cheap at $11.81 with free shipping. I just ordered it and will be further working on this in a few days when it arrives.
 

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I wrote a detailed post in this thread you must have missed. See this link and let me know if you have more questions.

 

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There is a way to fix the trunk switch issue. I converted mine to mechanical cable pull to open the trunk. I don't have any pictures of it, sorry. I drilled a small hole in the side of the trunk latch mechanism and put a large gauge wire (cut bike spoke) with a hook end over the latch mechanism. It is long enough to go outside the latch. loop on the end of wire. Then a bike brake cable with housing fed through the trunk out to where the switch is. Remove entire switch button and rubber cover. end of cable comes out where switch was. Finish end so you can pull the cable. When not needed put wire up into cavity of switch. This is not perfect and has not been refined. Because my switch failed and I could not get it to work even with custom repairs. Now I just pull the cable and opens the trunk. No electronics... No it will not lock but nobody knows until now how it works..
Hi, is there a way you can post pictures of what you did?
Thank you
 

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A lot of useful information in this thread, should you read continuity before and after the resistor?
I did not get any continuity between the contact of the switch and after the resistor I think that may be my problem.
 

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Some people here have said you can't read the continuity due to a safety mechanism built into the system in case there's a crash so the door doesn't open. But I don't believe that, because as I'm physically holding a new switch in my hand, and testing it with a voltmeter, there's no continuity in the line, and there should be. All I can tell you is, if you cut one of the wires on the new switch, open the switch up (carefully), drill a hole in the back of the switch, then solder that wire directly to the metal lead, then there will be continuity, and the switch will work. I've don't this to several switches already. DON'T be fooled by the dealers and spend $500 on the entire back panel that includes the switch, when you can just do the hack I have written about in this thread. Just follow my instructions and see all the attached photos of the work.
 

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My Abarth is a 2013. I can concur that reading a 1.5kohm resistor with a multi meter, will not read continuity. I tried the resistor bypass first. There was then continuity when the switch was depressed. The latch did not operate. I bench tested the latch with my cordless drill’s battery & it worked. My only option was to buy a new 1.5k ohm resistor and replace the one that burned out in my original switch. Now everything works as it should.

Hope this helps someone, as this thread has helped me.

BTW, I have plenty of resistors left and will ship anyone (1) to fix their switch if needed.
 

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Thank you all for the posts that helped me get my solution to fix this.

My girlfriend's 2016 Fiat 500x has the exact same issue, the outside rubber cover detached from the inside plastic switch, like everyone else, I firstly tried glue them together, but the cover felt off one day on the road, and the switch itself is just hanging there. I came here looking for a solution and thanks to MineBrokeToo, Geppog, BV93013, I can have enough information to find my own solution:

First, I bought Doorman #901-470, which as Geppoq said, it has a 4.8k Ohm resistor, and in order to make it work on 500x, we need to make it 1.5k, the best solution is what Geppoq proposed, parallel a 2.2K resistor along with it, but the problem comes to where to drill a hole. Thanks to the picture BV93013 posted, I found the best point to drill the hole is on the other side of the metal (show on the pic).

Then solder one side of the 2.2k resistor to the wire, one side to the metal,

Be sure to check with a multimeter in resistance mode, after the modification, it should read 0 or infinity (disconnect) when NOT pressed, and around 1500 Ohm when pressed,

Then I sealed it with glue, put it back, now it works like a charm and thank you all for the information!

Blue Circuit component Finger Automotive tire Nail

Electronic instrument Finger Gadget Electronic engineering Computer keyboard

Hand Leg Guitar accessory Gesture Finger
 

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Thanks everyone for the info. In my situation, it appears the embedded resistor failed in the switch as I was only reading an open circuit. I bypassed the resistor on the bad side, making it a normal switch. Which didn't work until I found this thread with the 1.5k ohm resistor. Now it works like a charm. This was a 2014 Fiat 500e. Cheaper fix than buying a new one (or a whole new trunk part!).
 

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Thank you all for the posts that helped me get my solution to fix this.

My girlfriend's 2016 Fiat 500x has the exact same issue, the outside rubber cover detached from the inside plastic switch, like everyone else, I firstly tried glue them together, but the cover felt off one day on the road, and the switch itself is just hanging there. I came here looking for a solution and thanks to MineBrokeToo, Geppog, BV93013, I can have enough information to find my own solution:

First, I bought Doorman #901-470, which as Geppoq said, it has a 4.8k Ohm resistor, and in order to make it work on 500x, we need to make it 1.5k, the best solution is what Geppoq proposed, parallel a 2.2K resistor along with it, but the problem comes to where to drill a hole. Thanks to the picture BV93013 posted, I found the best point to drill the hole is on the other side of the metal (show on the pic).

Then solder one side of the 2.2k resistor to the wire, one side to the metal,

Be sure to check with a multimeter in resistance mode, after the modification, it should read 0 or infinity (disconnect) when NOT pressed, and around 1500 Ohm when pressed,

Then I sealed it with glue, put it back, now it works like a charm and thank you all for the information!

View attachment 110926
View attachment 110928
View attachment 110927

I know this is a very old thread, but it was still useful! I followed these instructions and got the trunk release working properly again.
 

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You don't need the whole handle, just the rubber button assembly, but they're hard to find. I'm looking now. Mine just fell apart. Slammed the lid and most of it fell on the ground. The cover piece fell out a long time ago and now the rest fell out. Spring disappeared, so I need a replacement.
 

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Thank you for all the instruction, the rubber button fell apart on my wife's 2015 Fiat 500.

I bought Doorman #901-470, found I can't pull old button wires out of the white socket, so I cut the cable on both button and twisted the wires together.

After that, I drill a hole until see the metal, parallel 2.2k resistor (I only have 1k and 220 resistor, so connect 3 of them together) I don't have soldering iron either, therefore I glue everything on the back.

Now it works like a charm and thank you all for the information!

Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Gas Wood

Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Bumper Electrical wiring
Computer Personal computer Peripheral Computer keyboard Input device

Window Building Hood Automotive lighting Sky
 

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My Abarth is a 2013. I can concur that reading a 1.5kohm resistor with a multi meter, will not read continuity. I tried the resistor bypass first. There was then continuity when the switch was depressed. The latch did not operate. I bench tested the latch with my cordless drill’s battery & it worked. My only option was to buy a new 1.5k ohm resistor and replace the one that burned out in my original switch. Now everything works as it should.

Hope this helps someone, as this thread has helped me.

BTW, I have plenty of resistors left and will ship anyone (1) to fix their switch if needed.
Ill take one if you still have one:
Ken Janulewicz
3096 Point Clear Drive
Tega Cay, SC 29708

What's weird is that it would open a few times when I shorted out the contacts with my house key or pliers. Was very sporadic though maybe one out of ten attempts.

Thanks
 
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