Not a deal. That unit only charges 33% faster than the OEM EVSE that comes with the car. If you're going to buy an EVSE then at the very minimum it should be a 24A unit, which is twice as fast.Here’s the one. He wants 190$
Electric vehicle Charging unit - auto parts - by owner - vehicle...
Levitron Level 2 Charger Model # EVB22-3PM 220v/ 16 Amp Works with all J1772 compatible electric vehicles including the Chevy Volt, Nissan Leaf and Toyota Prius Plug-Inmedford.craigslist.org
is this a deal or?
That's technically not true. Level 1 and level 2 charging is based strictly on voltage. Any EVSE that transmits 208-240 volts is considered to be a level 2 charger regardless of the current it delivers.That's not a lvl 2 charger. That's just a lvl 1 charger plugged into a 220v socket. It's faster than a lvl 1, but still at least half the charging speed of a lvl 2.
Lol worst I was able to do on Saturday mornings to work pinned to 88mph for the whole 34 miles I still have 59% remaining when I parked. Mine just rolled 40k miles now. If I drove “conservative, in my case 65-70) I easily get 5.0-5.2 mile a kw, driving 88mph just left me 3.9mile a kw but still better then what a model S can achieve at the same speed.2014. 54,000 and change on the mileage. I finished my day today at 36 miles and down to 33%. Clearly a vast difference in battery effectiveness.
ga2500ev
There is 2 shops I know of that tinkers with Prius batteries and both are same owner called Hybrid 911 they swap cells and refurb a lot of batteries. I sometimes send him customers that want to pay less for the repairs since Toyota only sells entire packs and no individual cells.Question, new to the EV world, but not to the Engineering side of the coin. I seem to recall a company in California that was involved with updated and recycled batteries for the Toyota Prius, maybe this company could have a bit of insight into the Fiat battery question. If I recall the company was/is named Electromotive, but I will stand corrected if that is not the name. I also believe the company was located in Orange County.
Cynical
Seems like some 500e are extreme outliers or it requires much more effort to achieve than you think.If I drove “conservative, in my case 65-70) I easily get 5.0-5.2 mile a kw, driving 88mph just left me 3.9mile a kw but still better then what a model S can achieve at the same speed.
Don’t know since it’s my only EV I ever owned but I’m okay with its range and limitations I have a gasser for everything else. It’s always been able to get 100 miles a charge is 95% or situations. Only time in summer months I managed to get 108 miles with ac on that was remarkable, mix of 50/50 city and freeway.Seems like some 500e are extreme outliers or it requires much more effort to achieve than you think.
Yeah, twinturboz numbers are definitely not the norm. There is something about his car or his commute that gives fantastic numbers. He was reporting pretty impressive numbers even before he had the car lowered.Seems like some 500e are extreme outliers or it requires much more effort to achieve than you think.
% gauge has nothing to do with mi/kWh as far as I know. I've only run my car at full power for 3 or 4 miles, but I didn't get anywhere near 3.9 mi/kWh (but my car also topped out over 88 mph). More like 3 or less IIRC. But in San Diego, there aren't very many flat areas, so even over 3 or 4 miles you are going up and down hills. I also don't think I've ever seen over 5 mi/kWh when going over 65 mph for extended periods over typical terrain with minimal change in elevation. Maybe high 4's in ideal conditions.It might just be that his % gauge is better calibrated than most, allowing him complete access to the full available capacity.
If he has OBD, sometime when it's low he could check for any difference between that & the car's gauge.
My alignment is dead on I had it adjusted when I lowered it. Slight camber but that isn’t going to affect range. My battery is calibrated slightly low, gauge shows lower then actual by 2%. My drive to work is slightly a decline elevation is 250ft decline over the 34 miles span so it’s slight. However range is still more or less the same on the way home 4.9ish mainly cause traffic isn’t moving as fast as the morning. My car is lowered and the air dam is literally a finger gap off the ground prob not allowing any air underneath the car. And my tires are at 40psi cold.% gauge has nothing to do with mi/kWh as far as I know. I've only run my car at full power for 3 or 4 miles, but I didn't get anywhere near 3.9 mi/kWh (but my car also topped out over 88 mph). More like 3 or less IIRC. But in San Diego, there aren't very many flat areas, so even over 3 or 4 miles you are going up and down hills. I also don't think I've ever seen over 5 mi/kWh when going over 65 mph for extended periods over typical terrain with minimal change in elevation. Maybe high 4's in ideal conditions.
I think his car might have a combination of a great alignment and super efficient components and/or his drive to work is on a decline. Not sure, but his numbers are really great.
I should get my alignment checked. My car is reasonably efficient and I regularly get above the EPA range estimates, but your numbers show there is clearly more to be had - even without lowering I think. Thanks for the info!My alignment is dead on I had it adjusted when I lowered it. Slight camber but that isn’t going to affect range. My battery is calibrated slightly low, gauge shows lower then actual by 2%. My drive to work is slightly a decline elevation is 250ft decline over the 34 miles span so it’s slight. However range is still more or less the same on the way home 4.9ish mainly cause traffic isn’t moving as fast as the morning. My car is lowered and the air dam is literally a finger gap off the ground prob not allowing any air underneath the car. And my tires are at 40psi cold.
Keep in mind something though, having zeroed out toe will cause car to wander a bit sometimes down the freeway but it’s best for range, toe out slightly and the car will be stable and track straight at the cost of some tire wear and range. Most cars out of the factory has some toe, nearly no car I know is completely zeroed out.I should get my alignment checked. My car is reasonably efficient and I regularly get above the EPA range estimates, but your numbers show there is clearly more to be had - even without lowering I think. Thanks for the info!
