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2017 Fiat 500e (Billet Argento), 2015 VW Golf Sportwagen TSI 5MT (Tungsten Silver)
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Discussion Starter #21
I still fall under the 4/50k warranty what are the chances they will warranty that one haha worth a shot.
 

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DEFINITELY try that before you replace the plug yourself (which would of course void its warranty).

It seems like the issue is really just a slightly-too-low melting point on the plastic used for the stock plug. Therefore the solution is to replace it with a more robust unit that also can be made waterproof.

It might be wise for 500e owners to get one of those cheap replacement plugs now, so we're ready when ours melt.
 

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Are you measuring current on L1?

The user who reported that letting the car cool prevented melting was somewhere hot (AZ I think). They had 2 or 3 500e's, had melted 1 or more stock plugs, & had prevented melting others by letting the cars rest a bit before plugging in.

The battery is more efficient at higher temperatures. You can get the exact same range when it's hot out, even when you add the draw of A/C power. Maybe when charging warm on L1 the battery also draws a bit more current. As I said, the plug seems to be barely sufficient most of the time, so it wouldn't take much to take it over the edge.

Turboz: You might show someone your melted plug, & ask if you can replace the outlet before the same thing (or worse, like a fire) happens to their own equipment.
I was measuring current with my openevse I built. I have done both l1 and l2 and I have never seen it pull more than the charger says is available. It tends to pull 2-3 amps less than the charger's reported max.
So if I set the evse to 30A it draws it's max of around 28A.
When I set it to 12A (the same as the stock charger) it pulls no more than 10.
 

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Have you been listening for a radiator fan? In coastal SoCal I've heard mine come on rarely when it's hot out & I just drove uphill to my friend's JuiceBox. That may have been happening to the AZ user, & maybe the fan adds to the charger load.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I was measuring current with my openevse I built. I have done both l1 and l2 and I have never seen it pull more than the charger says is available. It tends to pull 2-3 amps less than the charger's reported max.
So if I set the evse to 30A it draws it's max of around 28A.
When I set it to 12A (the same as the stock charger) it pulls no more than 10.
At home I been using a Toyota charger I bought on Craigslist it says on the handle 16amps 120v and no issues with it. I wonder if this is slightly faster charger. This is what I bought as a home charger.
108451
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yea it is 4 more amps. The stock charger is 12. You just have to be careful what circuit you plug it into because it can blow a 15A breaker.
It's currently plugged in the same outlet as my 1996 era refrigerator so far no issues to report. I took a look a t the breaker box all mine are 20/25/30 amps except 2 says 40
 

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Note that a fridge or other heating/cooling device cycles itself off & on, so your charger on the same circuit could seem fine for now, & then later not so much, depending on the startup load of the fridge (maybe check that) if it auto-activates while you're charging your car. Meanwhile...:

Get a new fridge! A "friend" gave me a "free" 1996 fridge, & when I replaced it for a couple hundred bucks a few years ago my power bill went down by HALF. I calculated that the "free" fridge had cost me $2,000 in extra electricity!
 

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Have you been listening for a radiator fan? In coastal SoCal I've heard mine come on rarely when it's hot out & I just drove uphill to my friend's JuiceBox. That may have been happening to the AZ user, & maybe the fan adds to the charger load.
It doesn't matter IF the fan turns on or not, It doesn't matter if the car decides to use all the charger power to heat the battery instead of charging the battery.

The car WILL NOT pull more power than the charger pilot equates to in amperage.
 

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So according to the specs, the stock chargecord can draw 12A, & according to biohazard it usually only draws 10.

So maybe it draws more than 10 sometimes, like maybe if a radiator fan is still on when you plug it in

Regardless, if (when?) it melts, replace it with a better one & you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Note that a fridge or other heating/cooling device cycles itself off & on, so your charger on the same circuit could seem fine for now, & then later not so much, depending on the startup load of the fridge (maybe check that) if it auto-activates while you're charging your car. Meanwhile...:

Get a new fridge! A "friend" gave me a "free" 1996 fridge, & when I replaced it for a couple hundred bucks a few years ago my power bill went down by HALF. I calculated that the "free" fridge had cost me $2,000 in extra electricity!
My monthly electric bill is $50-56 with 2 fridges that both like 30yr old how much cheaper can a newer one put me? Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I don't know how much currently it pulls BUT in the warmer days at work I do sit in the car with AC running plugged in and the car still managed to continue charging as it went up like 3% in the hour I was napping. So it's pretty efficient AC if you ask me.
 

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The car AC is much more efficient than the heater. The cabin heater can pull upwards of 5KW, but the AC only pulls around 1.8KW or so and even then it does so intermittently to run the AC pump.
I haven't measured these values myself so I can't 100% vouch for them. I got them from watching a video of someone testing the power draw. In the older 500es that didn't have the touchscreen, if you have the TomTom it has a screen that displays climate control power draw.
There are a lot of things that the older TomTom does that I wish mine did. No idea why they decided to remove functionality in the newer ones...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Will the guess o meter totally wrong then whether I use the heater or the AC and drops the same amount of range on the guess o meter. I generally don't use the heater but I kind of need to use that to defrost the windows on these cold mornings lately I try to do that while I'm plugged in and getting ready for work.
 

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The GOM drops a lot at first, probably assuming worst-case-scenario, but after a few miles of A/C it seems to learn how little power you're actually using, & recalibrate accordingly. I haven't checked for heat. The REALLY crazy thing is it drops when you just open the vents with everything else off! (including the "off" light, which activates recirculate but not the recirc light!)

I've seen reports of cabin heat when it's around freezing outside, taking 8kW for a few minutes to get it up to temp, & then only averaging 1kW on recirc. That's still a LOT more than seat heat though.

I've also seen reports of A/C averaging only 0.25 to 0.5kW after a few minutes. A/C takes less with recirc off until the cabin is cooler than outside. When it's hot enough out that I'm not quite cool enough blasting the fan with fresh air & I need a bit of A/C, I get the same range as without it, supposedly due to the battery being more efficient at higher temps (within reason).
 
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