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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I scoured 6 pages of forum posts & couldn't find how to wire my standard 14-gauge extension cord (with plug cut off) into an $8 10-50 plug like this, to charge from an old oven outlet:

Amazon search of "10-50 Plug" (click to enlarge):
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Googled images of "NEMA 10-50 black white green chart":
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Do I connect as follows?...(EDITED based on @ga2500ev who I've now quoted in post #4 below):
  • green ground to white neutral
  • black to 1 black, white to other black (doesn't matter which)

Background: After over 6 years driving fine with only 120V home charging, I'm FINALLY going to barely exceed my 500e's daily range, to go 119 miles in one day, possibly starting at 93% or less, taking a friend's neighbor to the airport, then only a couple hours charging at home before taking my neighbor to the dentist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks @500Neat! I had found those exact items already*, but since I'm only needing it to do favors once in over 6 years, I'd rather spend only a couple gallons of gas worth, not a whole tank.

THANKS @ga2500ev !! I edited my original post above, since I THINK I FOUND THE ANSWER here** & here*** after scouring 6 more pages of just YOUR forum posts, since I thought you were the one who posted it, & it looks like I remembered THAT part right:
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** "...get a 10-30 3-prong dryer power cord and this 5-20 connector. Wire the three lines into the connector, making sure that THE NEUTRAL LINE CONNECTS TO THE GROUND (green screw) on the connector...

*** "... Both of the non ground connections get their own 120V circuit, so the ordering doesn't matter.

"Do you have a multimeter? If so then do a continuity check between the L shaped pin on the dryer plug to locate the ground connection. Again make sure that one goes to the green nut in the 5-20R. Then connect both of the other two lines to the other nuts (gold/silver) in any order. I'd then plug it in and check the AC voltages before plugging in the EVSE. The T port and the vertical slot should show 240V volts and each of those slots should be 120V relative to the ground. If that's the case, then you're good to go."

Note that I'm using 5-15 (with a vertical slot in place of the T port) & 10-50 (with vertical blade in place of the L pin), but their wiring is shown identical to the @ga2500ev 5-20 & 10-30:
Product Font Material property Rectangle Parallel


* Exact same "grow light plug adapter" for less though here & here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, compared to 120V, the OEM cord is only twice as fast on 240V, since it's 12 amps at either voltage, adding about 5% & 10% per hour, respectively.

Even 120V would likely work for my upcoming 119-mile day, with its couple hours home-charging between trips. However I might not start with 100% since the plug where I'm starting that day isn't always available. But the OEM on 240V during the home stop will be more than enough.

16A is the maximum for a J1772 connection on 120V, but this car's internal onboard charger is only 14A on 120V (click to enlarge):
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
TESTED & WORKING GREAT !
(click to enlarge):
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HERE'S HOW I BUILT IT :

My plan was to save money by cutting the plug off an old extension cord & replacing it with the 10-50 oven plug in post #1 above.

However, I couldn't find a cord with a broken plug, & I didn't really want to ruin a good cord. I found an old 15A 14-gauge power strip with the ground blade broken off, chopped off the cord, & got this $5 Amazon "NEMA 5-15R":
Font Rectangle Camera accessory Auto part Electronic device

Here it is on the power strip cord with the NEMA 10-50 on the other end:
Collar Gadget Wood Cable Jewellery

Both of the connectors shown above are very good quality/design. The 3 screws on the white face are a bit tight, so make sure to use a good-fitting screwdriver so as not to strip the heads.
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It's easier to insert the stripped wires in the clamps if you loosen the screws ALL the way & hold the screwdriver on the screw to press it open. Its black cable clamp grips my 14ga cord okay, when it's tightened all the way.

The 10-50 came with terminal screws too tight to remove when holding the blades in standard pliers, or with the blades inserted in the housing. A vice made it pretty easy though:
Line Material property Gas Composite material Auto part

Maybe a big crescent wrench or vice-grips or channel-locks would work, especially if you have another pair of hands available.
I stripped the wires for the width of the brass blades, after cutting the black & white shorter than the green...
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...so they fit the slots:
Guitar accessory String instrument accessory String instrument Font Electric blue

The cable clamp insert at the bottom of the black housing has 2 different-depth slots on each side, for a total of 3 different cable thicknesses. On the thinnest (outer) settings it clamped okay on my 14 gauge cord.

I turned the circuit breaker off, unplugged the oven, plugged in my new dangerously illegal adapter, turned the breaker back on, & checked the white part for 200-250V between the two slots. Also 100-125V between the round hole & 1 slot, & the same thing for the other slot.. I plugged the OEM into it, & got all green lights. I plugged it into the car, it's adding about 10% per hour, & everything is staying as cool as ever :cool:.
 
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