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Discussion Starter #1
So! I'm super weired out this is the first build thread... Thread...



Anyways I figure I'd start a project thread, since I've done a few things and it would be good to organize. I'm starting with my Audio build. BTW Zeke is the the name of my car. If anyone is an Aqua Teen fan you'll know who I named it in honor of.

First off, theory and goals.
I wanted something that would be considered Audiophile grade, but not on the scale of say, an MB quartz setup. My plans changed quote a bit as parts no longer became available to me. Originally it was a complete Stage 4 system(less the deck). I used the DEH-80 as it's pretty much the only thing geared to the audiophile from the big Audio guys.
As time went on Stage 4 was no longer available, so I transitioned to Kicker's IQ, but then they went all exclusive. My goal was to build a system with Carbon/Kevlar/Glass fiber speakers. I love the sound they make, and their rigidity. So after all was said and done it became a bit of a mix match, which I don't like, but it ended up working extremely well.
Here is the list, Pioneer D series speakers, Deh-80PRS deck, Infinity Kappa Woofer, Kicker KS series 5 channel and IQ rca's. I also used the random bits such as s-wheel adapters, mounting kits all the good stuffs. I'll try to have something intelligent to say about the install as I cover them.
 

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Ok back to ranting.

My main concern was of course to make it sound good, the second was to make sure I wasn't stressing the electrical system. Our little Fiats run a 140A alternator. Not too bad, but the devils in the details. Most new cars( I am unable to confirm this on our cars) are built to run with little "headroom" as possible between what the alternator puts out and what is being consumed to run the car. Go go being cheap...

For example driving down the highway, it's raining so you have the majority "optional" accessories on, headlights, wipers, defrost etc etc. You could be sitting at consuming 95% of what the alternator is putting out. Not a good idea to add a hungry amp onto that equation. Some cars are designed to shut off the alternator/very little output and essentially run off battery power while cursing on the highway to give you more M-P-Ga's. Again not a good idea to add a power hungry amp if this is true. Because of this the old rule of 125% over what the alternator outputs is acceptable is no longer valid.


So what are we looking at? Using good old watts law we can finger it out. 140A x 14.0 volts( Zeke puts out over 14 volts in all my testing situations). Our alternator is putting out about 1,960 Watts in a peak situation. I added up all our fuses, then took out what wouldn't be drawing any or little current. I don't have my notes in front of me, but I felt confident in the amp I choose as not sucking too much power. It shouldn't dim the lights either on Bass either. My voltage drop was .2v on both headlights. Worse case scenario I need to upgrade the alternator I figure the Dart's would be an easy transplant. I have yet to figure out it's output but I assume a Dart equipped with the M.A. will be beefier then ours.

I mention the above because I WILL NOT add a band-aid... I mean Cap to my car. It sucks I re-read though the MECP ADV book(since I re-upped) and each chapter I related they relevant information about my built to each section to help it sink in. Lots of random tech babble if anyone is interested on learning moar. But I want to keep this more for everyone not just people who live an breath this stuff.
 

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On to the cool bits. The Build!!!!


Part one. Fib-r glass sub hoofer box!!! The Kappa need a .75 cubic ft sealed box, and I ended up with .81 in the end. Pretty happy about that!!!


Not much to mention on the how to. It took me(with cure time) about 3 days to complete. The smell of fiber glass stunk up my car for about 3 weeks. I do not recommend you do this as you first fiber glassing project. It's pretty indepth. If anyone would like to know the how or the why of what was done please ask. I've been doin this long enough where I probably forgot all the cool new tricks and just do them without thinking. .


Part one prep. I didn't have any wax, but painters tape works...





Curing



Released for the car. I screwed the pootch a bit. Rather then making it a flat transition between the floor and the rear seat I kinda curved it in... Made it a bit difficult to remove.....








Rough cut of the shape I wanted... Funny enough it didn't occur to me till about 3 more shavings that this was WAYYYY more then .75 cubic feet.





Finally got the shape I wanted. And through random math estimating got me to where I felt it would be below a cubic foot. You can see how you build up the ring with supports, then you stretch fleece over the top to build the contours.





Fleece stretched and resin soaked...



Built it up with a layer of Fiberglass





Test fit and finishing,






Wrapped and mounted!!! I didn't have any bondo to fill in the gaps, and the point I knew would come back to haunt me... But I was hungry to get it done.





ANNNNND DONESKI!!!!





Much more to come!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited by Moderator)
Deck installlllll





Removal is pretty straight forward. You just need Ford tools and a pick tool to remove the covers. Cavity behind was pretty spacious I was able to sneak the S-wheel adapter, Metra box and 2 plugs, blue tooth and 3 sets of RCA's. I did have to hack the centering post out(where the factory radio sets in). It's metal so you will need something beefy to cut it. You may not have to, my radio has a big old heat sink the protruded about and inch off the radio and that was about how much room I needed. I didn't ISO mount it because the face flips down.


2 notes on the metra RAP harness. It states it will retain bluetooth, USB and aux through the red plug. You will need rear RCA's as it plugs in via that(and 2 Y cables to use both). Other radio's that don't have rear RCA you can y cable it and run an aux in the front... But that's counterproductive.


It does not work as factory. USB only allowed charging. I tired 2 Ipods and both thought it was a usb charging port and wouldn't do sound. Even though you couldn't control Ipod functions with the radio.


Bluetooth "worked". Everything was normal except when you got a call you had to switch inputs to rear RCA to get sound... So I axed it and went with the Pioneers BT.








That's the red harness. You can pretty much cut an RCA and T in the factory harness and do the same thing. The "amp turn on" wire is the charging wire for the factory USB location. With the pics you should be able to easily identify the pins and splice. I can help if someone wants to do this.


So what can ya do????
Luckly I got a pioneer with rear usb. So I ran the cable down to the factory location and modified the plug to accept it.


Factory USB



Ran the USB and Glued it



It's a bit off centered when it cured but functionally its fine.



Installed.



The glove box comes off really easily. Screws are really obvious.


I started with this radio with the Factory Bose. This deck made the Bose sound incredible... All 3 of us at work where kinda astonished at how good it sounded. If anyone wants to do a simple mod to wake up the Bose system DO THIS!!!! As a comparison most cars I do installs on it's replace the radio and all 4's with you're typically 100-130 dollar pair of speakers and you get a night and day diff(compared to the factory system). This woke it up more then those installs. It should be noted this is a radio designed for Audiophiles, so there is alot of design around producing the best audio signal built into it.


At this point I couldn't wait to put a my woofer/5 channel/Speaks in.




Last thing to note is the flashing ODO fix. The quick and dirty is it is a Firmware issue with the Metra RAP Harness. You have to download and flash the previous version. You can find the update on axxesses website and if you want moar detail on what's going on I have a rightup here.

<LINK REMOVED>

There maybe a few other fixes such as turning off Blue and Me.... But all those didn't work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks great and very glad you are willing to share, sadly I was told when I became staff in 2011 this forum won't allow links to other competing forums. I don't always like every rule but I am still expected to uphold them. Sorry but I had to remove the link buddy.
UNACCEPTABLEEEEEE!!!!!

It's all good, I totally understand. I was actually thinking about that at work today...

I posted on here too. I'm too lazy to seach and post but peeps can search for Odometer fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok speaks!!!
Rear panels are actually alot easier then I thought.
I tried to take pics, but my phone seamed to have some goo on it and took a few crappy pics so bare with me.
You start by popin on off the A pillar. Note I've been pullin panels for years and I broke the crap outta a few of these clips. You may want to buy a few before you attempt this. To note we have a bin of replacement clips at work, but none of them fit like the Fiat ones. I would recommend going to Fiat, rather then buying a universal pack like we have.

Take note of the clip on the lower panel, that will need to come off.
Next you take off the C pillar. There is a screw near the very rear, where the cardboard panel the you pop on behind the seats mates. Then there is a screw on the top/middle where the C and B pillar meet.
The lower panel has screws on the floor below the B pillar and then the clips pictured above, and another you'll see when you pop off the C pillar. Take your time tuggin it and you'll be rewarded.
Here is the process. Again sorry my phone was being weird, it would take a picture and then restart... Full battery too...
You may or may not know the factory speakers are riveted in. Grab a drill and drill em out.

Popped the new ones in, the duct tape is to eliminate the possibility of creating an infinite baffle speaker, like the sweet factory ones.

All sealed up. I have prolly 60 miles of spare speaker cable so I'm rerunning all the wires.

Sweet factory speakers,

Upgrade!!!


Fronts


Front where pretty easy. The fronts have screws on the back edge of the panel, under the chrome piece then in the center where you grab the door to close it. Then some more strategic tuggin and it comes right off.

Soo sexy

These suckers are pretty big. I put one underneath the glove box and the other behind a panel that pops off to the left and below the steering wheel.

These tweets where too big to fit behind the grill, so a bit-o-enlarging and fitting and here's what we have.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quick note on z dynamat. I used their "ultra light" stuff. I ended up adding about 10 pounds.

Before install,
60 Mph ~84/85 Db
70 Mph ~86/87 Db
WOT in 5th, 60-70 Peaked at 89Db
60 Mph down hill decell 80Db

After Dynamat I dropped about 3 DB in all the above situations. Cutting 3 DB from the noise floor made it half is loud. I noticed it immediately after I got on the highway how much quieter it is. Then the 60 Mph decell I dropped down to 76 Db. 60-70 pull peaked at 87. I used my phone placed in the cluster with my sweet deci-o-meter app.

Pretty happy with the results! I was going to add some to the rear hatch, but I noticed the Hvac vent is located right behind our exhaust. If you pop off the panel and put the seats down you'll really notice it when you turn the fan. There will be an increase in exhaust noise. So I decided against it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
WElp it's been a wHile. Here's an update,

To finish up the build. Amp was mounted under the passenger seat.
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Since then I have bombed Zeke,
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Discussion Starter #14
No idea why there is two pics of the amp, I've tried to edit it... O vell,
Spent a day washing, waxing and buffing her. I bought that meguires drill attachment thingy and it worked out well. I clay barred it, did the 3 step compound and waxed her.





Then one day I got bored at work... That same day our Viper rep dropped off a sample of this...

. It's 35% and the car was pretty easy to do. one thing should be noted. I broke in the woofer, and cranked it up to where it should be. No distortion and is line matched to the speakers. Throwing 500 watts RMS at that lil ten makes the whole car shake. It also turns my seat into a messaging chair on some songs. I really should take a vid. No light dimming either!!!!!!!!!
By the end of the month I'll be ordering a Remote starter. I got to talk to.... Not sure of his position but one of the techs at both Viper and Compustar. I got alot of good insight on how the Fiat system works and how the R/S/Bypass works with the vehicle. There will be a write-up and pics when I do it.
Other then that I've been bugged alot on the woofer boxes. I've built a mold earlier this week and 6 square feet of fiberglass/resin. I've built a few of them so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just wrapped right over it. If you look close you can see the a dimpled "500". I was thinking about filling it with a few various fillers but I wasn't too concerned.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Pretty much anything would work. I was just going to Caulk it or use some elmers skool glue since it would be easy to peel out if I ever wanted to remove it.
 
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