[Electric Tire Shredder]

Correction: More likely to fail at full charge if it doesn't have a Bluetooth 12V monitor.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

I believe that most failures happen at full charge. Here's why:

The car's own 12V warning usually doesn't activate until after it's dead. That's not quite totally useless, because it does let you know why the car is dead.

But it means there's usually no advance notice of immanent failure, which eventually happens no matter what, when the 12V wears out like it does in any car.

The 12V only dies when the car is parked for a while without charging. That's most likely to happen at home, where most people plug into 220V when they arrive, so it's at full charge in ~2 hours & then sitting all night without charging. So eventually one morning it won't quite start because the 12V is just barely too low, but the HV is at 100%.

 

[Lemon fiat]

I believe that most failures happen at full charge. Here's why:

The car's own 12V warning usually doesn't activate until after it's dead. That's not quite totally useless, because it does let you know why the car is dead.

But it means there's usually no advance notice of immanent failure, which eventually happens no matter what, when the 12V wears out like it does in any car.

The 12V only dies when the car is parked for a while without charging. That's most likely to happen at home, where most people plug into 220V when they arrive, so it's at full charge in ~2 hours & then sitting all night without charging. So eventually one morning it won't quite start because the 12V is just barely too low, but the HV is at 100%.

Hello.

We have towed it and have done the official sequence

Left door open, sleep after 2-3 min. Disconnected humidity sensor, disconnected HV, disconnected 12v.

We will now wait 30 hours and if no luck attempt the keys sequence 10 times.
If that doesn't work the 3 other HV sequences after 5 min RECONNECT.

then attempt odb with tools and peak at the stats with the connectors with alpha obd trial before purchase because might not be needed.

Will update in 40 hours have multimeter and will test HV continuity

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

• & test for 12V or more at the starter battery wires, in case of a bad connection.

• Remember to leave the humidity sensor unplugged, at least until all issues are resolved.

• I think this is what you meant: After reconnecting only the HV & 12V, use free AlfaOBD "demo" to scan BPCM status to see if the contactors need to be enabled with the paid app.

• The "3 other HV sequences" seem to make no difference:

Once we learned the trick for proper HV reconnect, nobody has had any success with different 12V/HV reconnect sequences. Most likely they only worked in the past due to the 1st reconnect(s) being done not quite right, & the subsequent sequence(s) working only because the HV was finally installed properly.​

 

[Lemon fiat]

• & test for 12V or more at the starter battery wires, in case of a bad connection.

• Remember to leave the humidity sensor unplugged, at least until all issues are resolved.

• I think this is what you meant: After reconnecting only the HV & 12V, use free AlfaOBD "demo" to scan BPCM status to see if the contactors need to be enabled with the paid app.

• The "3 other HV sequences" seem to make no difference:

Once we learned the trick for proper HV reconnect, nobody has had any success with different 12V/HV reconnect sequences. Most likely they only worked in the past due to the 1st reconnect(s) being done not quite right, & the subsequent sequence(s) working only because the HV was finally installed properly.​

Yes that sounds correct. Good to know the others probably make no difference. I'll go in with obd next. Yes everything is unplugged and I will completely remove the humidity sensor. Unless the car strangely bugs out and acts like it might need it? But seems rare or happened once is the case? Maybe I misread. But yes everything unplugged for 30 hours including humidity sensor , 12v and HV plug

If no luck then go in with free Alfa obd to see if I might need the paid version to activate the connectors. Yes

And again thanks for all your help!

 

[Lemon fiat]

• & test for 12V or more at the starter battery wires, in case of a bad connection.

• Remember to leave the humidity sensor unplugged, at least until all issues are resolved.

• I think this is what you meant: After reconnecting only the HV & 12V, use free AlfaOBD "demo" to scan BPCM status to see if the contactors need to be enabled with the paid app.

• The "3 other HV sequences" seem to make no difference:

Once we learned the trick for proper HV reconnect, nobody has had any success with different 12V/HV reconnect sequences. Most likely they only worked in the past due to the 1st reconnect(s) being done not quite right, & the subsequent sequence(s) working only because the HV was finally installed properly.​

Also while towing we were in a hot area. The good news is I heard the cars radiator fan/AC FAN kicked on as we were moving it/about to tow it..

I assume that's a good sign some more HV systems like hearing and cooling are working but that's just a thought. I have no idea.

But

: "There are battery-safety functions that won't allow operation without coolant or heat for that coolant. At least 2 owners have had failure to start OR charge due to battery heater issues (1 was just air in the coolant line at the heater). Since the battery is not only heated, but also actively chilled by the A/C, I wouldn't be at all surprised if the software prevents operation if A/C isn't functioning properly."

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Not really "a good sign", since my fan only comes on for 30 seconds when I plug in to charge right after driving hard in over 90F (or maybe it's 95, sorry I can't remember).

I will completely remove the humidity sensor. Unless the car strangely bugs out and acts like it might need it? But seems rare or happened once is the case?

I've had mine unplugged for about 8 years now, but we've recently learned of one particular procedure requiring "all" error codes cleared first. The unplugged sensor shows a code, so I wouldn't remove it. You can tuck the plug back in without connecting it, & still snap the cover back on.

Maybe I misread. But yes everything unplugged for 30 hours...

If no luck then go in with free Alfa obd to see if I might need the paid version to activate the connectors.

The full procedure is currently item 9B of the Site Map (click here).

I think you should try to clear all the fault codes first, since some of them might be deactivating the contactors. Clear all 17 modules: 9 plugged straight in, & 8 more with your Yellow Adapter. The list is currently in item 12B at that same link.

I forgot that you need the paid AlfaOBD app regardless, to fix the blinking odometer.

 

[Lemon fiat]

Not really "a good sign", since my fan only comes on for 30 seconds when I plug in to charge right after driving hard in over 90F (or maybe it's 95, sorry I can't remember).



I've had mine unplugged for about 8 years now, but we've recently learned of one particular procedure requiring "all" error codes cleared first. The unplugged sensor shows a code, so I wouldn't remove it. You can tuck the plug back in without connecting it, & still snap the cover back on.



The full procedure is currently item 9B of the Site Map (click here).

I think you should try to clear all the fault codes first, since some of them might be deactivating the contactors. Clear all 17 modules: 9 plugged straight in, & 8 more with your Yellow Adapter. The list is currently in item 12B at that same link.

I forgot that you need the paid AlfaOBD app regardless, to fix the blinking odometer.

The car was reading 100-110 even though it wasn't that hot. Figured I would need the paid app unless I got lucky and hard reset worked.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Flashing odometer means it has proxy misalignment.

I'm pretty sure that a hard reset won't fix that.

It can make the % on the car's gauge and on OBD read way off, as well as the cell voltages.

So you'll likely want to do a Proxy Alignment regardless, even if the odometer stops flashing temporarily. It's not worth the risk: When mine was flashing, I happened to notice the gauge jump up 30% right after plugging in. If I hadn't noticed, it would have died while driving, as soon as I hit 30%, since that was really zero.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Plus, with the % & voltage reading wrong in the BPCM, that's likely to upset proper functioning.

& in case you ever get the unpreventable contactor glitch that makes the car fail to start and to charge, it's a good idea to have the paid app on a device that will always be charged up in the car. So if you're not the only one driving it, or if your phone is an Apple, you can just get a ~$35 locked Android phone on Amazon, because you don't need service, just download the app on WiFi & then keep it plugged into the glovebox USB.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

The car was reading 100-110

With my friend's dark heat-absorbing charcoal 500e driving on the freeway in 113F (high heat-creating load) & then a few miles of surface streets (low cooling airflow) the fan was off when we stopped in noon sun & I opened the hood. Then it came on for just a minute when we plugging in.

With my own car reading 113 the fan also didn't come on until I plugged it in right after driving.

 

[Lemon fiat]

Flashing odometer means it has proxy misalignment.

I'm pretty sure that a hard reset won't fix that.

It can make the % on the car's gauge and on OBD read way off, as well as the cell voltages.

So you'll likely want to do a Proxy Alignment regardless, even if the odometer stops flashing temporarily. It's not worth the risk: When mine was flashing, I happened to notice the gauge jump up 30% right after plugging in. If I hadn't noticed, it would have died while driving, as soon as I hit 30%, since that was really zero.

Was planning to reguardless if it was still flashing

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Others have had the odometer stop flashing temporarily, while they still had proxy misalignment.

Anyway, the plan still seems to be:

• Reconnect only the HV (after continuity check) & 12V.
• Check for 12+V at the wires, turn the key only 1 click to light the speedometer (should show "not ready).
• Connect the SX cable & clear 9 modules, then 8 more with your Yellow Adapter, then key off 2 minutes.
• See if it will go to "ready" mode.
• If not, check that charge-prevention timers are deactivated & see if it will charge.
• If not, try ten 2-minutes-off key cycles.
• If it still won't charge, check if contactors are enabled, & if not, enable with the paid app.
• Proxy Align with the paid app if the odometer is still flashing (I'd do it regardless, maybe even before all the key cycles).

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

just get a ~$35 locked Android...

...but make sure it's OTG-compatible, because it's risky to do "active diagnostics" like Contactor Enable or Proxy Align with a wireless connection.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

If you have an OEM charge cord, that's the most reliable:

 

[Lemon fiat]

...but make sure it's OTG-compatible, because it's risky to do "active diagnostics" like Contactor Enable or Proxy Align with a wireless connection.

My phone is OTG compatible.

Seems simple enough, my only question now is with yellow cable it goes yellow cable into obd. And that connects to OBD SX. But do you connect the yellow side or the black side into the obd2 port. Is it basically parallel and doesn't matter.. or is it like a LAN cross over cable. And orientation can matter?

If I'm not clear what side the does black side connect to and what side does the yellow side connect to or does it not matter ?

I know or I believe it goes yellow cable into obd2 port. And connect sx to the yellow cable. Not vise versa, I believe.


But I guess that was the only instruction not clear as I hate wiring diagrams and schematics. Probably makes sense from the instructions you left if I spliced but that's a bit above the risk I would take. I imagine if I did plug it wrong side nothing bad would happen either way.

 

[Lemon fiat]

If you have an OEM charge cord, that's the most reliable:

View attachment 118053

No OEM cord sadly.

 

[Lemon fiat]

My phone is OTG compatible.

Seems simple enough, my only question now is with yellow cable it goes yellow cable into obd. And that connects to OBD SX. But do you connect the yellow side or the black side into the obd2 port. Is it basically parallel and doesn't matter.. or is it like a LAN cross over cable. And orientation can matter?

If I'm not clear what side the does black side connect to and what side does the yellow side connect to or does it not matter ?

I know or I believe it goes yellow cable into obd2 port. And connect sx to the yellow cable. Not vise versa, I believe.


But I guess that was the only instruction not clear as I hate wiring diagrams and schematics. Probably makes sense from the instructions you left if I spliced but that's a bit above the risk I would take. I imagine if I did plug it wrong side nothing bad would happen either way.

Cross over cable example

Cross over cable:
It is also a "single wire." Bundled together


The cross-over cable will not go to the same pin slot of another side, if it goes then the communication or transmission will not have happened.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

Don't worry. The Yellow Adapter will only plug in one way.

 

[Electric Tire Shredder]

The Yellow Adapter's plugs are male-female so only 1 end will plug into the car, & only 1 end will plug into the SX cable.

They're also asymmetrical so you can't plug them in upside-down.

It does connect the car's connections to different ones on the SX cable, in order for it to connect to different modules:

It won't work if it doesn't "cross over" the connections to the other modules. That's why I always try to make a point of mentioning that you need to make sure it's not just a yellow-colored extension cable that doesn't cross over the connections properly.